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Old 02-18-2009, 03:17 AM   #16
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Thought I might mention that I've had a 17.5 pulse to 220+ degrees... A LOT... But that's because I'm a run a battery until it's dead kinda guy/moron.

Doesn't make it a good idea, but it seems to be holding up just fine. Don't get your motor that hot.
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Old 02-18-2009, 10:34 AM   #17
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So far my experience with the Pulse motors has been positive. I have run back-to-back tests with a Pulse 4.5 and a DUO 4.5. I did adjust my gearing a little with the Pulse. With the Pulse, even though the throttle response was a little 'soft' on the bottom end (compared to my DUO 4.5), the throttle curve and powerband was much smoother. It would be a much more 'driveable' motor on a low-to-medium bite track (vs. a DUO, which feels as if it has a much shorter powerband).

I have been running the Pulse 4.5 118/22 with 8-10 degrees of timing, rubber tires on indoor, high bite surface. My motor is finishing at about 165-175 degrees (in 65 degree ambient temperature).
I don't believe the issues have been with the performance of the modified motors, just the 13.5 and 17.5. Hard to find fdr/timing/speedo timing to get similar performance over the the same turn Duo motor.
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Old 02-18-2009, 11:44 AM   #18
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I called and talked with Chad last week, his response to me on the problem with the motors was basically that they don't know when the issue is going to be resolved. I would take from that that it will be several months still before a solution is offered up to those who sent a motor back that came unsoldered or was otherwise a turd. This WAS after several emails, and unanswered phone calls to Trinity to hopefully get an update on when I might get a replacement motor. My $80 lasted about 7 min, I think it would do Trinity a great deal of service to come on the forums and provide at least SOMETHING to their customers.
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Old 02-18-2009, 12:40 PM   #19
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For those that are wondering if their motor is bad, this is what mine looked like after it let go. You can see where the 3 poles came unsoldered from the ring.


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Old 02-18-2009, 04:28 PM   #20
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Thanks for all the feedback guys, maybe you may also be able to help again. Ive found that Br00d is selling blueprinted versions of the pulse. & also, Putnam is selling blueprinted & tuned versions. would it be wise to grab one of these, or a 'raw' one?

I will be using this motor with my mamba max, if the two dont go together so well, then so be it, but has anyone here had any experience with these & a sensorless esc?
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Old 02-18-2009, 04:40 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Drift Demon View Post
Thanks for all the feedback guys, maybe you may also be able to help again. Ive found that Br00d is selling blueprinted versions of the pulse. & also, Putnam is selling blueprinted & tuned versions. would it be wise to grab one of these, or a 'raw' one?

I will be using this motor with my mamba max, if the two dont go together so well, then so be it, but has anyone here had any experience with these & a sensorless esc?
Previous experience with a MM and a Novak motor was that the gearing is totally different. Keep that in mind and check motor temps frequently until you find the sweet spot for your setup. I would start several teeth lower than you think you should, monitor temps/performance and go from there.
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Old 02-18-2009, 06:31 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Drift Demon View Post
Thanks for all the feedback guys, maybe you may also be able to help again. Ive found that Br00d is selling blueprinted versions of the pulse. & also, Putnam is selling blueprinted & tuned versions. would it be wise to grab one of these, or a 'raw' one?
THere is no reason on earth to buy a "tuner" version of a brushless motor. There is NOTHING to tune in a brushless motor, remember? If I'm wrong here, someone please correct me and explain what a tuner does to a brushless motor to make it worth the extra $$.

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I will be using this motor with my mamba max, if the two dont go together so well, then so be it, but has anyone here had any experience with these & a sensorless esc?
Brushless comtrollers seem to have issues with the high turn "spec": brushless motors. The low turn brushless motors seem to do better.
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Old 02-18-2009, 07:04 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by RC_Dan View Post
I called and talked with Chad last week, his response to me on the problem with the motors was basically that they don't know when the issue is going to be resolved. I would take from that that it will be several months still before a solution is offered up to those who sent a motor back that came unsoldered or was otherwise a turd. This WAS after several emails, and unanswered phone calls to Trinity to hopefully get an update on when I might get a replacement motor. My $80 lasted about 7 min, I think it would do Trinity a great deal of service to come on the forums and provide at least SOMETHING to their customers.

If this is the case, perhaps they could offer a DUO as a replacement or at a minimum contact the people that have product sent back for some form of update. De-soldering is only one faulty issue with these motors, others just quit with no heat or abuse issues.
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Old 02-18-2009, 07:07 PM   #24
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THere is no reason on earth to buy a "tuner" version of a brushless motor. There is NOTHING to tune in a brushless motor, remember? If I'm wrong here, someone please correct me and explain what a tuner does to a brushless motor to make it worth the extra $$.
I spoke to someone about this in detail. When tuning a brushless motor, you basically start with several tear down motors. Two things to look for are the magnetic balance, and strength of the two poles of the rotor. The other thing to look for is the lowest possible resistance in the can windings allowed for a given turn motor. Putting the best of these two together will produce the best performance as far as power and efficiency. Hope this helps.
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Old 02-18-2009, 07:09 PM   #25
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If I had an unsoldered motor I would recommend just resoldering with a lead free solder. It's a pain that you have to fix yourself but at least you will have a working motor. Lead free solder doesn't begin melting until 250 degrees so it should hold.
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Old 02-18-2009, 07:20 PM   #26
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If I had an unsoldered motor I would recommend just resoldering with a lead free solder. It's a pain that you have to fix yourself but at least you will have a working motor. Lead free solder doesn't begin melting until 250 degrees so it should hold.
Then we can listen to all the complaints about cheating. I understand that it's not a performance thing but it's not exactly something that's going to make people comfortable.
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:04 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by SpraydbySprague View Post
I spoke to someone about this in detail. When tuning a brushless motor, you basically start with several tear down motors. Two things to look for are the magnetic balance, and strength of the two poles of the rotor. The other thing to look for is the lowest possible resistance in the can windings allowed for a given turn motor. Putting the best of these two together will produce the best performance as far as power and efficiency. Hope this helps.
I guess it helps perpetuate the myth.

Please don't take this as an insult to you, but I've heard that explanation before. If that WAS what the tuners are doing, how do they cover the cost of the rotors and windings that don't "make the cut". According to that statement, a tuner motor would have to sell for more than the price of several motors to make any profit for the tuner. Since I don't see any tuner motors selling in the $200+ range, I have a hard time believing that they can make any money by following that process.
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:15 PM   #28
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I guess it helps perpetuate the myth.

Please don't take this as an insult to you, but I've heard that explanation before. If that WAS what the tuners are doing, how do they cover the cost of the rotors and windings that don't "make the cut". According to that statement, a tuner motor would have to sell for more than the price of several motors to make any profit for the tuner. Since I don't see any tuner motors selling in the $200+ range, I have a hard time believing that they can make any money by following that process.
No insult taken. My guess, they assemble the lesser performing motors and sell them as "standard" or "club" spec motors. Similar in the way battery matching companies sell their batteries at different "levels". I purchased a used 17.5 from an individual who tuned it exactly the way I described. Mind you, it's not to say the lesser performing motors are lacking tremendously, it's just to get the extra edge.
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Old 02-18-2009, 09:01 PM   #29
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I did take a look at the Team Brood website, and saw no mention of any club grade or standard grade motors. I didn't find anything atall brushless on the Putnam website. I suppose it's a possibility that they could cover the costs of the blueprionted motors by selling lseer performers at a lower cost, but I can't imagine someone buying a known weaker motor when the blueprinted one sells for such a low price, and there's no mention on the company website of a lesser motor available for lower cost.

About the only thing I can see a tuner doing is the spacing... of the motors I've bought, only one was spaced where I thought it was right. Several had a LOT of endplay in the rotor, one none at all. I guess some careful tweaking on the sensor assembly could yield some advantage as well for non-adjustable motors.

I certainly don't know all there is to know about brushless motors, so if one of the tuners would care to step in and enlighten me, I'd honestly like to hear what they have to say.
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Old 02-18-2009, 09:08 PM   #30
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I didn't find anything atall brushless on the Putnam website.
I heard he was blueprinting spec pulse motors, i just emailed him & he said he blueprints modified pulses aswell.

maybe these lesser performing motors are sent back to manufacture or something along those lines?
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