Good Solder
02-12-2009, 06:46 AM
#1
Good Solder
What do you guys use and where do you get it? Was it the high silver content or high lead content that they banned a year and a half ago?
The stuff i have is a 60/40 i believe, but it doesn't compare to the "Deans" stuff I used to get. My solder joints look really gray, vs. the nice silver/chrome color I used to get!
Who has the "good stuff"?
-Steve
The stuff i have is a 60/40 i believe, but it doesn't compare to the "Deans" stuff I used to get. My solder joints look really gray, vs. the nice silver/chrome color I used to get!
Who has the "good stuff"?
-Steve
02-12-2009, 07:19 AM
#3
I m using Much More solder lead and it looks chrome after you apply it. Cant remember the silver contain % as I dont have it handy right now.
02-12-2009, 08:21 AM
#5
you are right as far as using less solder, and skill and technique is everything. But solder is not solder, unless you just started doing this about a year ago. They changed the formula about a year and a half ago due to EPA stuff, I beleive it has to do with the lead content. As a result, the new 'formula' for solder content creates a situation of 'cold' solder joints. I'm not the most skillfull with a soldering iron, but i have noticed the difference between the old stuff and the new, EPA legal stuff.
But hell, maybe i'm just over analyzing this stuff, and should go with what I have.
Even with that being said, I wonder what the "pro" level guys, and battery builders have access to?
-Steve
02-12-2009, 08:32 AM
#6
I've always had good luck with standard radio shack 60/40 solder. I try and use as little as possible to make a clean joint and use a nice hot iron. I keep my Hakko at ~700-750 when soldering battery and motor wires, and crank it up when soldering battery bars.
02-12-2009, 08:36 AM
#7
I have carried about every type of solder you can imagine in my shop. I can tell you that the HUDY Solder (its new) is hands down the best I have ever seen. Also it is oddly not over priced at 7.99.
Last edited by mrrcguy; 02-12-2009 at 08:46 AM.
02-12-2009, 08:40 AM
#8
02-12-2009, 08:50 AM
#10
Or as hudy would put it......"Ultimate solder for the RC professional is 1.0mm thick and 60/40 Sn/Pb. Contains 3.3% flux core. The 3m length of solder is nicely rolled into a tiny tube, yet is easy to pull out through the dispensing hole in the cap."
02-12-2009, 09:02 AM
#11
Hi Harry,
you are right as far as using less solder, and skill and technique is everything. But solder is not solder, unless you just started doing this about a year ago. They changed the formula about a year and a half ago due to EPA stuff, I beleive it has to do with the lead content. As a result, the new 'formula' for solder content creates a situation of 'cold' solder joints. I'm not the most skillfull with a soldering iron, but i have noticed the difference between the old stuff and the new, EPA legal stuff.
But hell, maybe i'm just over analyzing this stuff, and should go with what I have.
Even with that being said, I wonder what the "pro" level guys, and battery builders have access to?
-Steve
you are right as far as using less solder, and skill and technique is everything. But solder is not solder, unless you just started doing this about a year ago. They changed the formula about a year and a half ago due to EPA stuff, I beleive it has to do with the lead content. As a result, the new 'formula' for solder content creates a situation of 'cold' solder joints. I'm not the most skillfull with a soldering iron, but i have noticed the difference between the old stuff and the new, EPA legal stuff.
But hell, maybe i'm just over analyzing this stuff, and should go with what I have.
Even with that being said, I wonder what the "pro" level guys, and battery builders have access to?
-Steve
When I build batteries, I use my old solder wires and use as little solder as possible. Joints are strong, tight, and have teeny bit of solder. I will post some pictures of my work. When I solder the tabs on, you can literally hold the tabs with your finger tip and get the job done. The tabs almost never get hot. And this is using the Hakko 936 station with the 908 iron and a 5mm chisel tip at 500 degrees.
Well, if the EPA is suggesting to change solder, I will remain with my toxic solder wires. The EPA can pay for my new solder or pay me for my silver and pure tin solder wires.
02-12-2009, 10:47 AM
#13
Tech Rookie
+1 HUDY Solder
02-12-2009, 12:56 PM
#14
I am Soldering Pro, Radio Tradesman.
And let me tell you solder is not solder, thier are some cheaper solders out thier that just will not work good and turn dull grey and look like a bird craped on your joint no matter how good you are.
Try Consolidated Alloys Solder if you can get it, it comes on a big roll and you will most likely never need another roll for about 5 years. Locally here in Australia it costs around $20.00 for a large roll. And is available from the local Auto Parts Shop "Super Cheap Auto" and also available from most 240volt Electrical Supply Shops that specialize in selling switches and wiring for homes etc...(as in not electronics)
And let me tell you solder is not solder, thier are some cheaper solders out thier that just will not work good and turn dull grey and look like a bird craped on your joint no matter how good you are.
Try Consolidated Alloys Solder if you can get it, it comes on a big roll and you will most likely never need another roll for about 5 years. Locally here in Australia it costs around $20.00 for a large roll. And is available from the local Auto Parts Shop "Super Cheap Auto" and also available from most 240volt Electrical Supply Shops that specialize in selling switches and wiring for homes etc...(as in not electronics)
02-12-2009, 04:54 PM
#15
I am Soldering Pro, Radio Tradesman.
And let me tell you solder is not solder, thier are some cheaper solders out thier that just will not work good and turn dull grey and look like a bird craped on your joint no matter how good you are.
Try Consolidated Alloys Solder if you can get it, it comes on a big roll and you will most likely never need another roll for about 5 years. Locally here in Australia it costs around $20.00 for a large roll. And is available from the local Auto Parts Shop "Super Cheap Auto" and also available from most 240volt Electrical Supply Shops that specialize in selling switches and wiring for homes etc...(as in not electronics)
And let me tell you solder is not solder, thier are some cheaper solders out thier that just will not work good and turn dull grey and look like a bird craped on your joint no matter how good you are.
Try Consolidated Alloys Solder if you can get it, it comes on a big roll and you will most likely never need another roll for about 5 years. Locally here in Australia it costs around $20.00 for a large roll. And is available from the local Auto Parts Shop "Super Cheap Auto" and also available from most 240volt Electrical Supply Shops that specialize in selling switches and wiring for homes etc...(as in not electronics)
