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Tekin RS/RS PRO on 1s Lipo Q&A

Tekin RS/RS PRO on 1s Lipo Q&A

Old 10-31-2011, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Some other boosters out there. No switch, but I've seen them work just fine. The current rating might be a limiting factor depending on the servo.

BEC Booster

Turnigy Booster
The first is 90% to a TQ booster (easy to figure out), the second is crap (components on a flex print, circut runs and wires too small).
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Old 11-20-2011, 06:11 PM
  #1067  
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Ran today at another track with a much longer straight than at my local track. Was on full throttle for 5-6 seconds and even the in field had more full throttle then my local track..Need help in if its better to gear up and or add more timing? I ran my same gear and added timing but all it did was add heat.
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Old 11-20-2011, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Friulimotosport View Post
Ran today at another track with a much longer straight than at my local track. Was on full throttle for 5-6 seconds and even the in field had more full throttle then my local track..Need help in if its better to gear up and or add more timing? I ran my same gear and added timing but all it did was add heat.
Put the timing back and add 3 or 4 teeth to the pinion. Run for 5 min and temp. If the car is maxing out on top speed before 1/2 to 2/3 straight add another tooth and temp again. Keep doing that until temps start to drop and max speed is reached later in the straight. Make sure you have very little or no timing on the motor.
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Old 11-20-2011, 06:34 PM
  #1069  
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Put the timing back and add 3 or 4 teeth to the pinion. Run for 5 min and temp. If the car is maxing out on top speed before 1/2 to 2/3 straight add another tooth and temp again. Keep doing that until temps start to drop and max speed is reached later in the straight. Make sure you have very little or no timing on the motor.
Thanks for the input. I'll give it a try next time out.
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:56 PM
  #1070  
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Default Rx pack to tekin

I'm a little hard headed I've seen the wiring diagram for wiring a rx pack to on/off switch So do I solder the negative to negative on the switch then positve to positve. The diagram looks like they want you to solder both negaitve and positve battery leads to the negative wire on the on/off switch.
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Old 11-24-2011, 04:50 AM
  #1071  
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Originally Posted by Gyr0 View Post
I'm a little hard headed I've seen the wiring diagram for wiring a rx pack to on/off switch So do I solder the negative to negative on the switch then positve to positve. The diagram looks like they want you to solder both negaitve and positve battery leads to the negative wire on the on/off switch.
You don't solder the battery leads to the switch leads. Use a connector so you can detach the battery to recharge it. All you are doing is putting the battery in line with the negative switch lead so when the swich closes the circuit the RX battery powers up the ESC's internal BEC thereby powering the receiver and servo while the 1S powers the motor.

Personally I just plug my LiFe RX pack into the receiver and don't turn on the ESC. You actually use less of the RX pack this way. I normally recharge the pack with 50 to 60 mah for an eight minute heat and several warm up laps. It's much easier and you don't need to change any connectors or wires.

Last edited by AreCee; 11-24-2011 at 05:54 AM.
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Old 11-24-2011, 04:52 AM
  #1072  
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plugging in directly to the rx on a 7.4v 2s if your not using a lipo ready servo it won't last long
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Old 11-24-2011, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE View Post
plugging in directly to the rx on a 7.4v 2s if your not using a lipo ready servo it won't last long
Not if the battery is a LiFe.

After more than two years of racing 1S each weekend from Nov to May I have not had any issues from the servo in each of my cars. Going on year three now.
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Old 11-24-2011, 06:04 AM
  #1074  
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE View Post
plugging in directly to the rx on a 7.4v 2s if your not using a lipo ready servo it won't last long
we are actually not seeing any loss of servo life. Your servo will be much faster though.
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Old 11-24-2011, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Gyr0 View Post
I'm a little hard headed I've seen the wiring diagram for wiring a rx pack to on/off switch So do I solder the negative to negative on the switch then positve to positve. The diagram looks like they want you to solder both negaitve and positve battery leads to the negative wire on the on/off switch.


The diagram is correct if you wire it +to + and - to - you may burn up the bec in the RS or the RS Pro.
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Old 11-24-2011, 08:45 AM
  #1076  
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Got it!! Thanks a lot fellas!!
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Old 11-24-2011, 08:47 AM
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For the longevity of your li-fe battery receiver pack, you should always unplug it from your receiver at the end of each race day. I didn't one time and later found a puffed up pack the next time I used the car. Apparently I had left the li-fe's switch on at the end of a race day and drained the pack over the next day or two.

And just last night, another WGT racer had done the same thing by leaving his li-fe pack connected.
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Old 11-24-2011, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
Not if the battery is a LiFe.

After more than two years of racing 1S each weekend from Nov to May I have not had any issues from the servo in each of my cars. Going on year three now.
I was talking 7.4
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Old 11-24-2011, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
For the longevity of your li-fe battery receiver pack, you should always unplug it from your receiver at the end of each race day. I didn't one time and later found a puffed up pack the next time I used the car. Apparently I had left the li-fe's switch on at the end of a race day and drained the pack over the next day or two.

And just last night, another WGT racer had done the same thing by leaving his li-fe pack connected.
It's always a good thing to remind people to have good battery management habits.
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Old 11-25-2011, 11:39 PM
  #1080  
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Hey guys, I need a little help with my 1/12th. Medium size carpet track, and I have no punch on the infield and not a lot of speed on the straight. I've got a LRP X12 17.5 (stock rotor and insert) running boosted. I had a low 80s rollout, boost 45, range 2400-9000, turbo 12, delay .2, and ramp 2.0. Motor was getting pretty warm, so I went to a smaller pinion with not much difference.

I'm also running the old reedy 4600 bats. I'm oing to try the new reedy 60c bats tomorrow to see if that helps.

Anyone offer any other setup suggestions?
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