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Old 04-09-2009, 07:28 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
Those of you using a booster are you turning the esc switch on? If not, does the mean the setting in it are not being used??

With a booster whats the correct thing to do? My tekin esc is on 1.89 software.
Do not under any circumstance turn on the ESC switch with a booster, you will fry the esc if you do so!! And yes the esc settings for lipo cuttoff are deactivated as the esc is not switched on.
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Old 04-10-2009, 02:44 AM   #92
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Chris, can you expand on why one would fry the ESC if the esc switch is on with the booster ?
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Old 04-10-2009, 11:25 AM   #93
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Do not under any circumstance turn on the ESC switch with a booster, you will fry the esc if you do so!! And yes the esc settings for lipo cuttoff are deactivated as the esc is not switched on.
That shouldn't happen. We don't recomend it right now since if the voltage is lower than the bec's voltage we'll try to charge that circuit and eventually cause an issue.

We're testing the 1s profile now making sure it's correct. Once this is done you can ride with the switch on and have the VC work properly.
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Old 04-10-2009, 02:59 PM   #94
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That shouldn't happen. We don't recomend it right now since if the voltage is lower than the bec's voltage we'll try to charge that circuit and eventually cause an issue.

We're testing the 1s profile now making sure it's correct. Once this is done you can ride with the switch on and have the VC work properly.

Randy I remember reading a post where someone had the booster plugged in and turned on the esc switch and the magic smoke emerged. Now there may have been other factors and if I remember corectly he was on software 189 but I cannot seem to find that quote yet.
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Old 04-10-2009, 03:27 PM   #95
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My guess is that something isn't wired right, probably why you can't find the post either! LOL

Assuming the wiring is done correctly it shouldn't be an issue.

However we recomend the switch in the OFF position until the 1s software is done.
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Old 04-10-2009, 03:35 PM   #96
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Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Randy I remember reading a post where someone had the booster plugged in and turned on the esc switch and the magic smoke emerged. Now there may have been other factors and if I remember corectly he was on software 189 but I cannot seem to find that quote yet.
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My guess is that something isn't wired right, probably why you can't find the post either! LOL

Assuming the wiring is done correctly it shouldn't be an issue.

However we recomend the switch in the OFF position until the 1s software is done.
I think I recall a post of that nature from a few weeks ago, but if I remember right it was in the "SMC single cell LiPO" htread, not this thread. Also, unless I'm mistaken, the post was regarding a different brand ESC, not a Tekin RS.

I'll have a look and see if I can[t find it...
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Old 04-10-2009, 04:48 PM   #97
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
My guess is that something isn't wired right, probably why you can't find the post either! LOL

Assuming the wiring is done correctly it shouldn't be an issue.

However we recomend the switch in the OFF position until the 1s software is done.
Ok np, I've just left the switch off and not had an issue that way But I do have a question for you Randy, I by mistake reset my esc to software 180, figured ok I'll just download the 189 and reset. But my hotwire does'nt find any new updates when I tell it to look Any ideas on why it will not download anything after 180??. I bought the esc and hotwire used but it hd 189 in the esc before I messed it up
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Old 04-10-2009, 05:28 PM   #98
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Sounds like you removed the 189 version from your computer. Shoot me an email here: [email protected] and I'll get you the latest software.
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Old 04-12-2009, 08:48 PM   #99
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Thanks Randy, sent you an email for the latest software update.

Chris
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Old 04-13-2009, 07:43 AM   #100
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Default total timing for 1s

Hi,

so we have been running 13.5 1s lipo against 13.5 4-cell at our club. Not sure what others have been finding, but, a good driver with both show a couple less laps with the 1s, really pretty close. Any thoughts as to wether 10.5 1s would be just a little too much faster? BTW, the weight limit we set is 730g with 1s, so we are running lighter as well.
The track we run on is temporary, so I don't get much testing time, just race, but on the subject of timing, I slowly increased my boost each heat last race and saw a slight increase in temps but noticed a drop off in speed near the end of the race as well. I am not sure if this is due to a little more heat in the motor, got to 130 later, earlier temps were 110, or bigger drain on battery showing as a voltage loss late in the run. Forgot to chart actual ma. back into cells at beginning vs last runs. Anyone chime in with what has been working? I have had some say to really push the timing, as much as 45. Seems like at some point, even with the lower voltage you would be not running as efficiently, so really would not see any gain by going too far above the maximum, and that number seems to be around 30 degrees, as it seems to be a number that I see as about maximum timing, maybe for any set-up.
I am running 194 with my RS with a booster for receiver/trans./servo, switch off on esc.

Thanks,
-Alex
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Old 04-13-2009, 10:27 AM   #101
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Too much timing will be less efficient for sure. Same goes for motor heat. The hotter it gets the more it will fall off at the end.
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Old 04-14-2009, 12:04 PM   #102
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Hi,

so we have been running 13.5 1s lipo against 13.5 4-cell at our club. Not sure what others have been finding, but, a good driver with both show a couple less laps with the 1s, really pretty close. Any thoughts as to wether 10.5 1s would be just a little too much faster? BTW, the weight limit we set is 730g with 1s, so we are running lighter as well.
The track we run on is temporary, so I don't get much testing time, just race, but on the subject of timing, I slowly increased my boost each heat last race and saw a slight increase in temps but noticed a drop off in speed near the end of the race as well. I am not sure if this is due to a little more heat in the motor, got to 130 later, earlier temps were 110, or bigger drain on battery showing as a voltage loss late in the run. Forgot to chart actual ma. back into cells at beginning vs last runs. Anyone chime in with what has been working? I have had some say to really push the timing, as much as 45. Seems like at some point, even with the lower voltage you would be not running as efficiently, so really would not see any gain by going too far above the maximum, and that number seems to be around 30 degrees, as it seems to be a number that I see as about maximum timing, maybe for any set-up.
I am running 194 with my RS with a booster for receiver/trans./servo, switch off on esc.

Thanks,
-Alex
Alex,
Will you post a pic of your setup (unless you'll be at FW this Sunday...)? I'm planning on going 1S in the next month or two...

BTW, this may show how totally clueless I am, but I forwarded a bunch of info on voltage boosters to my electrical engineer friend...he's been known to make his own audiophile stereo stuff, so who knows? Maybe he'll see the boosters as an easy project.
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Old 04-14-2009, 04:18 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldrcr View Post
Hi,

so we have been running 13.5 1s lipo against 13.5 4-cell at our club. Not sure what others have been finding, but, a good driver with both show a couple less laps with the 1s, really pretty close. Any thoughts as to wether 10.5 1s would be just a little too much faster? BTW, the weight limit we set is 730g with 1s, so we are running lighter as well.
Thanks,
-Alex

Here and almost everywhere that I have read about, the 1s is run with a 13.5 against 17.5/nimh, depending on the size of the track a 13.5/nimh has a huge advantage on a straight. And to me a couple of laps is huge
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Old 04-14-2009, 09:23 PM   #104
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Randy, thanks for the emails I'm all sorted out and looking forward to this weekend. One question, I've noticed that the first ten% or so of the radio trigger pull is just dead. On the esc you can see the lights start to move but the motor does'nt run untill around the third or forth light comes on. Is this a radio setting issue or is this the norm with the 1s and the RS esc? I'm using an M8 and did the calibrating with the brake and throttle at 100%.

Thanks
Chris
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Old 04-14-2009, 10:15 PM   #105
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Chris, make sure to max out your M8's epas BEFORE doing your radio cal. Also set the TP setting at 3 and NW setting at 10.

Recalibrate after these adjustments are made. Make sure your ABS function is off on your M8 as well.

It should start to roll quite quickly once you're done.
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