Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

We would only be guessing. You need to provide a lot more detail on your current car setup.

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

unless you are running a timing clas, punch will be gone. you are going from4.8v to 3.7v. that is almost 1/4 voltage loss. also if all you did was mount a lipo, you probably are having issues with voltage to your electronics. 3.7v is pretty low and most speedos will not work at that voltage unless you have a rx pack or booster.

smracer31

iTrader: (6)

I decided to jump into the WGT class and have a question on running the 1S lipo's. I read earlier in the thread that people were running without boosters(i think mostly tekins race team during testing), but a lot of you guys are recommending them. Does the RS work without a booster or is it a must have? or, is it dependent on the servo/transponder/receiver being used?

here are the electronics i will be using.

Vector X-12 Stock Spec 13.5T Brushless Motor
RS ESC, Forward and Reverse for Brushless Motors
2.4 GHz FASST R614FF Receiver for 4PKS
Savox SC-1251MG Low Profile Digital Metal Gear Servo
5400mAh 65C 3.7v Lipo Battery Pack
RC4 Hybrid Personal Transponder

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

For 1s
Tekin will require a booster, or rec pack.
LRP SXXSS, SXX v2 have it built in

Funky

iTrader: (28)

Is there a preferred software version to run on the Tekin RS for my 12R5.1s on 1S? One will be running a Ballistic 13.5 and the other will be running a DUO2 17.5 or Ballistic 17.5. I was just curious if there is a preferred version to run these on 1S or if I should just download the latest software version.

Also, all of the electronics are brand new. Should I hook the ESC to my PC and update the software before soldering the motor and plugging everything in for the first time? Should I hook up a 2S lipo this first time to program them, or use my 1S lipos (one with TQ booster, other will run seperate LiFE pack).

Sorry if this has already been answered. I tried to search this thread but my searches are either too specific to bring up anything or too broad that a million posts come up and I can't find the answers I am looking for.

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

put it in solder it up,update it and go racing

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

You can also update the RS without connecting to anything but hotwire.

Funky

iTrader: (28)

Would you reccomend just updating both of them before soldering anything up? Is there a preferred version I should run or just download the latest version?

Thanks for the help!! These are my first Tekin ESCs since the old Tekin Speed Star brushed ESCs (which I still use after 10 years) so I am excited to try out the new ESCs with some good brushless motors.

Also, I am going back and forth on which motor to use for the second 5.1. I already have the Ballistic 13.5 for one of them but I haven't decided on the 17.5 yet. Is there one you would reccomend for my other 5.1? I do have a new X12 17.5 although I was planning on using this in my new Touring car unless this would be a better choice for my 1/12 scale. I also have a DUO2 17.5 but it is already installed in my backup touring car so I am not sure if I want to pull it for this project or just get another motor. I am the only one running 1/12 scale on our local track so I can run anything I want.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

v212 is the latest great spec from Tekin, I highly recommend it. there is no difference in the order of update. installed or not.
As for motors, check with the quick guys at your local track, they should be able help you out with a setup to get you up to speed quickly.

Funky

iTrader: (28)

Thanks for the help!!

Unfortunately I am the only one running 1/12 scale at our club so there isn't much help there. I am building a few cars to try and get some of the other guys interested, but everyone else runs 17.5 Touring cars. The majority of them run Ballistic motors with a few LRPs mixed in and 1 DUO2. I am hoping that as they see my 1/12s getting faster and better, I can spark some interest in the other guys and get a new class started. Lately I have been running 2 5.1s on 2S lipos with brushed 27t motors. They are pretty fast and working great, but the setups are pretty odd and I think there is still some room for improvement. I have 2 more 5.1s so I want to set them up with proper 1S brushless setups to see how they compare. If we do start a class, I would imagine we would use the 1S brushless setups.

It is a fairly small track http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCHlWMou1Bw

darrenoakley

I used to run 17.5 in my 12r5.1 and the duo 2 would get hot and start to drop off after about 4 mins but the x12 will be a lot better as they can handle more heat. I would have the duo 17.5 on boost 45 really narow rpm range(think it was 1500 to 3000 with 10 push and brake 95 and turbo off as our track is roughly the same size as the one in the video. I had my rollout at 80mmpr using a small 58t spur gear to get it and it was as fast as the 10.5s apart from the end of the straight really.
Pm me if you want the full set up but it is similar to one on Tekins site but changed to suit the layout.
Hope this helps.

Edgar_P

Hello,

My question: Can I cut on/off switch, solder wires together and leave on/off function to RCdynamics booster's switch? I am wondering if Hotwire would work after this? I need the cutoff funtion to stay active.

pakk

iTrader: (80)

You don't need the on/off switch or power to the ESC to use hotwire. There should not be a problem. I ran my 12th scale just as you said except with a novak booster.

likeakid

Ok, probally the most asked question but i'm new to 12th scale. Using 17.5 x12 tekin rs and novak booster. After 4 min or soo boost is gone and I can drive full throttle the whole track... Sucks Donkey D's. Is this fixable?