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Old 10-08-2010, 04:55 AM   #916
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What is the preferred way to setup a Life reciever pack. I am getting the Team Epic with the switch.

Would it just be easier to get a booster be easier?
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Old 10-08-2010, 07:24 AM   #917
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What is the preferred way to setup a Life reciever pack. I am getting the Team Epic with the switch.

Would it just be easier to get a booster be easier?
I just plug mine into the receiver battery slot and your done. The only thing you have to do is charge the pack. A boster does not require it. I also run with the ESC switch off, but realise that you have NO VOLTAGE cut off, so don't run the car for 10-12 min. You may start to do damage to your 1 cell lipo.
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Old 10-08-2010, 07:28 AM   #918
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Originally Posted by Castradamus View Post
What is the preferred way to setup a Life reciever pack. I am getting the Team Epic with the switch.

Would it just be easier to get a booster be easier?
You just plug it into any open slot on the receiver. It's that simple, oh and don't forget to charge it. With the RS you have two switch options; 1. switch the RS on to get the LVC, 2. Leave the RS off. You need to switch the LiFe on in either case.

Rx Pack (Life)
Pros:
6.6V nominal to the Rx and Servo.
About the same size as a Spektrum SR3500.

Con:
About the same size as a Spektrum SR3500.
Needs to be charged after each run (may last for two runs but why chance it).
Cheesy switch (Trinity/Epic LiFe).

Booster
Pros:
Forget it once installed.

Cons:
Most supply only 5V to the Rx and servo.
Must hardwire to battery/ESC.
No LVC (Novak has one but it cuts out too early).


My preference is the LiFe Rx pack, less to go wrong unless you forget to recharge. (charging takes about 10 minutes).
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Old 10-08-2010, 11:02 AM   #919
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Originally Posted by Grenade10 View Post
I just plug mine into the receiver battery slot and your done. The only thing you have to do is charge the pack. A boster does not require it. I also run with the ESC switch off, but realise that you have NO VOLTAGE cut off, so don't run the car for 10-12 min. You may start to do damage to your 1 cell lipo.
That is correct it must be plugged into the battery slot on your receiver. I have troubleshot a lot of instances where people have tried to plug the receiver pack/booster into the third channel/aux slot.
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Old 10-08-2010, 02:17 PM   #920
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I guess my Spektrum recivers are not that particular because they work with the battery plugged into either the battery or aux slot. Seems to make no difference. However, I keep my transponder plugged in aux all the time so I do end up using only the battery slot for the battery.
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Old 10-08-2010, 10:59 PM   #921
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Well ive never tested mine, im pretty sure at least one of the people who i saw had problems was one of the DSM2 receiveres.

But i figure there is usually a reason why one of the slots is usually labelled B or BATT
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Old 11-10-2010, 09:23 AM   #922
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Had my first big race with my 1/12 scale last weekend, and things went pretty well (2nd B-Main), with one problem: starts.

When the car was put on the track before the heat with a fully charged pack, it was a rocket - punch it, and the car was up to full speed very quickly. However, at the start of the heats (and the main ), when the peak on the battery is gone, starts were very sluggish. This cost me big-time in the main, as I dropped immediately from 2nd to 4th - I was able to fight back up to 2nd, but that was as far as I got. Bummer.

My thoughts are that gearing and timing was such that the motor needed a fully charged pack to get going - once the voltage dropped down to a steady-state for the duration of the race, there wasn't enough juice to get the car moving very rapidly from a dead-stop. Once the car was up to speed, it was very fast; nothing on the track was faster.

I don't have my car in front of me right now, but I was running a lot of boost (around 45), and about 18 turbo, with a delay of 0.1, and a ramp of 2. I don't remember what my gearing was, but it was very similar to what other people where running.

I've experienced this problem with both a Tekin 17.5 (with the standard amount of timing (12?) on the can), and an Orca 17.5 with fixed can timing.

Speedo was upgraded to 212; I don't think I was experiencing this problem with the prior version.

Suggestions? Perhaps decreasing the rollout?
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Old 11-10-2010, 10:30 AM   #923
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Originally Posted by Dog Bone View Post
Had my first big race with my 1/12 scale last weekend, and things went pretty well (2nd B-Main), with one problem: starts.

When the car was put on the track before the heat with a fully charged pack, it was a rocket - punch it, and the car was up to full speed very quickly. However, at the start of the heats (and the main ), when the peak on the battery is gone, starts were very sluggish. This cost me big-time in the main, as I dropped immediately from 2nd to 4th - I was able to fight back up to 2nd, but that was as far as I got. Bummer.

My thoughts are that gearing and timing was such that the motor needed a fully charged pack to get going - once the voltage dropped down to a steady-state for the duration of the race, there wasn't enough juice to get the car moving very rapidly from a dead-stop. Once the car was up to speed, it was very fast; nothing on the track was faster.

I don't have my car in front of me right now, but I was running a lot of boost (around 45), and about 18 turbo, with a delay of 0.1, and a ramp of 2. I don't remember what my gearing was, but it was very similar to what other people where running.

I've experienced this problem with both a Tekin 17.5 (with the standard amount of timing (12?) on the can), and an Orca 17.5 with fixed can timing.

Speedo was upgraded to 212; I don't think I was experiencing this problem with the prior version.

Suggestions? Perhaps decreasing the rollout?
were you running a reciever pack?
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Old 11-10-2010, 11:59 AM   #924
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were you running a reciever pack?
No, I have the TQ Booster.
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Old 11-10-2010, 12:03 PM   #925
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i dont see a drop off with setup and i use a tq booster,have you tried a different battery
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Old 11-10-2010, 12:32 PM   #926
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i dont see a drop off with setup and i use a tq booster,have you tried a different battery
Yup, three different Reedy packs. Same behavior with each one.
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Old 11-10-2010, 12:49 PM   #927
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i dont see a drop off with setup and i use a tq booster,have you tried a different battery
what was motor temp and timing boost?

i notice a big drop off when my motor is over-timed and hot
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Old 11-10-2010, 01:28 PM   #928
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i dont run over 60* in my 12th or wgt motor is 120-140 run the same times from start to finish and use less than 2k mah
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Old 11-10-2010, 03:45 PM   #929
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Originally Posted by R3VoLuTiOn View Post
what was motor temp and timing boost?

i notice a big drop off when my motor is over-timed and hot
+1 that was the reason mine was dropping off after 3 mins.
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Old 11-10-2010, 04:08 PM   #930
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Originally Posted by Dog Bone View Post
Had my first big race with my 1/12 scale last weekend, and things went pretty well (2nd B-Main), with one problem: starts.

When the car was put on the track before the heat with a fully charged pack, it was a rocket - punch it, and the car was up to full speed very quickly. However, at the start of the heats (and the main ), when the peak on the battery is gone, starts were very sluggish. This cost me big-time in the main, as I dropped immediately from 2nd to 4th - I was able to fight back up to 2nd, but that was as far as I got. Bummer.

My thoughts are that gearing and timing was such that the motor needed a fully charged pack to get going - once the voltage dropped down to a steady-state for the duration of the race, there wasn't enough juice to get the car moving very rapidly from a dead-stop. Once the car was up to speed, it was very fast; nothing on the track was faster.

I don't have my car in front of me right now, but I was running a lot of boost (around 45), and about 18 turbo, with a delay of 0.1, and a ramp of 2. I don't remember what my gearing was, but it was very similar to what other people where running.

I've experienced this problem with both a Tekin 17.5 (with the standard amount of timing (12?) on the can), and an Orca 17.5 with fixed can timing.

Speedo was upgraded to 212; I don't think I was experiencing this problem with the prior version.

Suggestions? Perhaps decreasing the rollout?
Motor Temp....`1cell lipo set-ups don't seem to work well when the motor is over about 135*. I've run many test, gearing high, low, timing high, low, 40c, 50c packs, the response is always the same, once the motor reaches about 140 the punch is gone. I can gear up to keep the speed up but it will loose punch and ultimately lap times drop.
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