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Tekin RS/RS PRO on 1s Lipo Q&A

Tekin RS/RS PRO on 1s Lipo Q&A

Old 05-01-2010, 01:28 PM
  #856  
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Default wgt settings

i have my wgt set with a 13.5 duo 2 and rs 1s....the settings r as follows

20 degrees on motor

profile 5

rpm..4400.....11000

timing...50

turbo....10

delay .2

ramp 3

Problem: i do not have enough bottom end power...i have plenty straight away speed, i need more bottom end speed...what could i do differently? any suggestions...help needed..carpet track 70 x 30
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Old 05-02-2010, 02:00 PM
  #857  
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obi wun, when are you going to make it back out to the track, got a couple of ideas to try.

Ed M.
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Old 08-10-2010, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by GWH74 View Post
I did some testing tonight with my RS Pro and Hobbycity booster.
I can confirm the following.

1) Lipo voltage cutout only works with ESC switch ON

2) A big increase in current consumption from the booster when ESC is switched ON

3) Two switches are needed or battery must be disconnected to power down the ESC / receiver. Read down the bottom for more on this one.

My setup is SMC 4900mAh battery, RS Pro, Hobbycity booster, Spektrum SR3520 receiver, Futaba S9650 servo.

Attached is the test setup. Battery replaced with variable power supply. Right multimeter is the input voltage (battery), middle is the output voltage of the booster, left is the output current of the booster.

The below results were with the above setup. The servo was connected but was unloaded.

Test 1 Booster ON, ESC OFF
Input Voltage (Battery) 3.7v
Booster Output Voltage 5.10v
Booster Output Current 145mA

Test 2 Booster ON, ESC ON
Input Voltage (Battery) 3.7v
Booster Output Voltage 5.10v
Booster Output Current 335mA - +170mA over switch OFF !!!

Test 3 Booster ON, ESC OFF Motor run
Input Voltage (Battery) 2.8 to 4.20v
Booster Output Voltage 5.10v
Booster Output Current approx 160mA (slight fluctuation, could be the LEDs)
NO Lipo cutout !!!

Test 4 Booster ON, ESC ON Motor run
Input Voltage (Battery) 2.8 to 4.20v
Booster Output Voltage 5.10v
Booster Output Current approx 350mA (slight fluctuation, could be the LEDs)
YES - Lipo cutout

Test 5. Booster On, ESC ON - Vary input voltage (no servo connected)
Input Voltage (Battery) 3 to 4.20v
Booster Output Voltage 5.10v
Booster Output Current varied from 150mA @ 4.2v to 280mA @ 3v. Interesting
Something interesting going on with the BEC / motor drive circuit in the ESC. Would love to look at the circuit.

Test 6 Power Booster from external supply, No battery input, ESC switch OFF
Input Voltage (Battery) disconnected
Booster Input Voltage 3.6v
Booster Output Voltage 5.10v
Booster Output Current 136mA (no throttle)
Booster Output Current 160mA (full throttle) extra current used by LEDs?

Test 6 Power Booster from external supply, No battery input, ESC switch OFF
Input Voltage (Battery) disconnected
Booster Input Voltage 3.6v
Booster Output Voltage 5.10v
Booster Output Current 136mA (no throttle)
Booster Output Current 300mA (full throttle) AND motor is getting power.

Conclusion: With the ESC turned ON it will consume up to 150mA extra current. I did see a maximum of 700mA with servo loaded so the Hobbycity booster should be up to the task.
I also saw a lot of ripple on the output voltage of the booster when the servo was moved fast lock-to-lock, so I need to investigate extra capacitors on the output of the booster.

Switches: You will need either two switches or wire the booster and ESC up to a Double Pole switch.
With that battery connected and booster switch ON (ESC OFF) the whole system is powered. Car will move from transmitter input.
With that battery connected and ESC switch ON (Booster OFF) the whole system is powered. The car will move if the battery voltage is higher enough to enable the receiver.
The only way to de-power the system is to either turn both booster and ESC off OR disconnect the battery.

Stay tuned for more testing.
Hi Gareth..looks like your a bit of a "mad scientist".....
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Old 08-10-2010, 11:21 AM
  #859  
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Originally Posted by GWH74 View Post
I did some testing tonight with my RS Pro and Hobbycity booster.
I can confirm the following.

1) Lipo voltage cutout only works with ESC switch ON

2) A big increase in current consumption from the booster when ESC is switched ON

3) Two switches are needed or battery must be disconnected to power down the ESC / receiver. Read down the bottom for more on this one.

My setup is SMC 4900mAh battery, RS Pro, Hobbycity booster, Spektrum SR3520 receiver, Futaba S9650 servo.

Attached is the test setup. Battery replaced with variable power supply. Right multimeter is the input voltage (battery), middle is the output voltage of the booster, left is the output current of the booster.

The below results were with the above setup. The servo was connected but was unloaded.

Test 1 Booster ON, ESC OFF
Input Voltage (Battery) 3.7v
Booster Output Voltage 5.10v
Booster Output Current 145mA

Test 2 Booster ON, ESC ON
Input Voltage (Battery) 3.7v
Booster Output Voltage 5.10v
Booster Output Current 335mA - +170mA over switch OFF !!!

Test 3 Booster ON, ESC OFF Motor run
Input Voltage (Battery) 2.8 to 4.20v
Booster Output Voltage 5.10v
Booster Output Current approx 160mA (slight fluctuation, could be the LEDs)
NO Lipo cutout !!!

Test 4 Booster ON, ESC ON Motor run
Input Voltage (Battery) 2.8 to 4.20v
Booster Output Voltage 5.10v
Booster Output Current approx 350mA (slight fluctuation, could be the LEDs)
YES - Lipo cutout

Test 5. Booster On, ESC ON - Vary input voltage (no servo connected)
Input Voltage (Battery) 3 to 4.20v
Booster Output Voltage 5.10v
Booster Output Current varied from 150mA @ 4.2v to 280mA @ 3v. Interesting
Something interesting going on with the BEC / motor drive circuit in the ESC. Would love to look at the circuit.

Test 6 Power Booster from external supply, No battery input, ESC switch OFF
Input Voltage (Battery) disconnected
Booster Input Voltage 3.6v
Booster Output Voltage 5.10v
Booster Output Current 136mA (no throttle)
Booster Output Current 160mA (full throttle) extra current used by LEDs?

Test 6 Power Booster from external supply, No battery input, ESC switch OFF
Input Voltage (Battery) disconnected
Booster Input Voltage 3.6v
Booster Output Voltage 5.10v
Booster Output Current 136mA (no throttle)
Booster Output Current 300mA (full throttle) AND motor is getting power.

Conclusion: With the ESC turned ON it will consume up to 150mA extra current. I did see a maximum of 700mA with servo loaded so the Hobbycity booster should be up to the task.
I also saw a lot of ripple on the output voltage of the booster when the servo was moved fast lock-to-lock, so I need to investigate extra capacitors on the output of the booster.

Switches: You will need either two switches or wire the booster and ESC up to a Double Pole switch.
With that battery connected and booster switch ON (ESC OFF) the whole system is powered. Car will move from transmitter input.
With that battery connected and ESC switch ON (Booster OFF) the whole system is powered. The car will move if the battery voltage is higher enough to enable the receiver.
The only way to de-power the system is to either turn both booster and ESC off OR disconnect the battery.

Stay tuned for more testing.
Thanks for taking the time for all of us and doing the testing. I have been scratching my head on this one for a few weeks now with my first 12th season coming up. I have the 200mah lifa pack and booster so can try both now( after reading again and letting it sink in for a bit.

Great post mate
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Old 08-10-2010, 11:26 AM
  #860  
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Originally Posted by obi wun View Post
i have my wgt set with a 13.5 duo 2 and rs 1s....the settings r as follows

20 degrees on motor

profile 5

rpm..4400.....11000

timing...50

turbo....10

delay .2

ramp 3

Problem: i do not have enough bottom end power...i have plenty straight away speed, i need more bottom end speed...what could i do differently? any suggestions...help needed..carpet track 70 x 30
Dont know if starting your rpm a little later and finishing it later will help,Letting the motor do a bit of work first. I would have thought it will drop temps if nothing else. I am going to try your setup and start RPM later. Will let you know how it goes.
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Old 08-10-2010, 03:35 PM
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Oh well there goes that idea. Tried the voltage booster tonight and the servo just kept glitching from side to side and no sound from the speedo regardless of on off switch position.
Back to the receiver back i think.
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Old 08-10-2010, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by obi wun View Post
i have my wgt set with a 13.5 duo 2 and rs 1s....the settings r as follows

20 degrees on motor

profile 5

rpm..4400.....11000

timing...50

turbo....10

delay .2

ramp 3

Problem: i do not have enough bottom end power...i have plenty straight away speed, i need more bottom end speed...what could i do differently? any suggestions...help needed..carpet track 70 x 30
FYI...I only use Duo 1 motors with 0 timing. And wish that I knew the size of your track.

You are initially overtimed.

Start with less timing on the motor. 10 degrees tops or try letting the Tekin do it all.

Timing should be more like 44-46.

Use a start closer to 3,000 RPM but stay with the 11,000 RPM end (money on a 100' straight).

Bill...Took fifth at the ROAR Nats this weekend and nobody had more poop on the straights and infield. My driving just sucks!
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Old 08-10-2010, 08:00 PM
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And I do use a LIFE 200mah battery pack to power the servo and ESC. Gave up on those booster boards last year after experiencing too much voltage drop off. Have more mahr left in the 3.7V pack for the latter part of a 6-minute run. Money!

I know having a LIFE battery pack is more work; but, get over it. It's can be worth a place or two at my home track.
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Old 08-10-2010, 08:49 PM
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Someone should post Dave Ehrlich's National winning setup on here
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Old 08-10-2010, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by chinamonkey7 View Post
Someone should post Dave Ehrlich's National winning setup on here
I don't think Dave will be telling all about his RS setup used on his Expert 1/12th 17.5 car. Super nice guy; but, also very smart!

Besides...There is still the IIC and TimeZone II carpet races a comin'.

For WGT, several of us got within 1-2/10ths of the fastest laps done during the 3 A-main runs. Great fun!

Bill
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Old 08-10-2010, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by obi wun View Post
i have my wgt set with a 13.5 duo 2 and rs 1s....the settings r as follows

20 degrees on motor

profile 5

rpm..4400.....11000

timing...50

turbo....10

delay .2

ramp 3

Problem: i do not have enough bottom end power...i have plenty straight away speed, i need more bottom end speed...what could i do differently? any suggestions...help needed..carpet track 70 x 30
I would agree with previous posts on your motor being overtimed. I have run the duo2's w/ 203 and wouldn't go above 10, 15 at most. There are a couple of good 1S setups on the Tekin website from Yang Lai.
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Old 08-11-2010, 11:06 AM
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I do have Brian Shooks winning WGT setup and Mark Burt's 17.5 setup to post. Both were nice enough to share with everyone.

Dave was running two cars with two different setups and equipment...nuff said.
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Old 08-11-2010, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
I don't think Dave will be telling all about his RS setup used on his Expert 1/12th 17.5 car. Super nice guy; but, also very smart!

Besides...There is still the IIC and TimeZone II carpet races a comin'.

For WGT, several of us got within 1-2/10ths of the fastest laps done during the 3 A-main runs. Great fun!

Bill
After following Erlich around for a few laps in 12th X, I will say it's not about the motor.
That guy is SMOOTH
For sure he has done his homework on every aspect, or he wouldn't be lapping the field.
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Old 08-11-2010, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
After following Erlich around for a few laps in 12th X, I will say it's not about the motor.
That guy is SMOOTH
For sure he has done his homework on every aspect, or he wouldn't be lapping the field.
yes you are right....1+
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Old 08-11-2010, 01:36 PM
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Default boosters

I gave up on boosters for my WGT. Too much glitching and voltage drop. It works pretty ok on my 12th scaler though. Less voltage demand I suppose.
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