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Old 04-01-2010, 06:47 AM   #826
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dare to challenge the wisdom of Emperor Yang (and Bill).
please descend to 1 knee when you say that.
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Old 04-01-2010, 06:53 AM   #827
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ya I had no issues running a 10.5
Settings were diferent from 17.5, since i have never run 17.5 I had some of the locals use the same settings that they were using.

Gearing was a 78spur and i tried a range of pinions from 39 - 45tooth.

Just couldnt understand why i ran fine with a 10.5 but a 17.5 gave me such problems.

What i can do is post up my Tekin settings tonight, I'll just do a screenshot and attach it.
If anyone else can do the same maybe we can compare

thanks everyone
you didnt mention tire size so i am guessing 44mm so that would be a max rollout of 80. is it possible that you were driving the 10.5 setup very smoothly, while the 17.5 allows you to peg the throttle coming out of corners. maybe this is a factor with the brown outs?
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Old 04-01-2010, 07:39 AM   #828
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please descend to 1 knee when you say that.
Good thing this is April fools day, I didn't take you seriously, even for a second...
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Old 04-01-2010, 07:55 AM   #829
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Good thing this is April fools day, I didn't take you seriously, even for a second...
you hush. oh, and I need some tires trued.
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Old 04-01-2010, 09:28 AM   #830
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the higher the winds the more aggressive the setup. my 17.5 setup has 53 timing and 10 turbo. that is 63 degrees of timing and a duo set at the lowest setting is still more then 10 degrees soi have over 73 degrees of timing to the motor. my 13.5 is a little less, not much. i run 50 timing and 5-6 turbo. so that totals 65 or so.
Someone please correct me if im wrong but the maximum about of timing you can set is +60 degrees. My understanding is when you go over 60 degrees you start to retard the timing again.....
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Old 04-01-2010, 09:34 AM   #831
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if you are talking 39 to 45mm roll out, you are way under geared. on a duo 2 I am running round 92mm and another racer running a nemisis is over 102mm. also your speedo setup could be off.
That's interesting thanks for that. I have a 10.5 nemesis which ive been trying to get going. I suspected i had it undergeared but unfortunately i cant gear it any higher than i currently have it with out ditching the spur gear covers which i dont want to do. Guess i'll have to get a duo 2 which only just attains the rollout i want to run.
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Old 04-01-2010, 05:19 PM   #832
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That's interesting thanks for that. I have a 10.5 nemesis which ive been trying to get going. I suspected i had it undergeared but unfortunately i cant gear it any higher than i currently have it with out ditching the spur gear covers which i dont want to do. Guess i'll have to get a duo 2 which only just attains the rollout i want to run.
I got spare 75 spur if you want it tonight.
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Old 04-01-2010, 09:55 PM   #833
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the higher the winds the more aggressive the setup. my 17.5 setup has 53 timing and 10 turbo. that is 63 degrees of timing and a duo set at the lowest setting is still more then 10 degrees soi have over 73 degrees of timing to the motor. my 13.5 is a little less, not much. i run 50 timing and 5-6 turbo. so that totals 65 or so.

also I squeeze the rpm range down to 2000 rpm delta, ramp 3 and tp 5 for my 17.5 car, and 2500 rpm delta, ramp 2 and tp 3 for my 13.5.

all this makes the battery work harder and at some point, if you are running a booster, the main pack just can not produce enough to run the booster and the tekin. I guarantee that the tekin wins that war.
Well that makes sense. But you have to agree that a lower wind is going to pull more power out of the pack. At what point is an aggressive timing ramp going to pull more than a lower wind? with out a data logger, your guess is as good as mine.
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Old 04-01-2010, 10:25 PM   #834
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I got spare 75 spur if you want it tonight.
Need a smaller spur than 69. But thanks for the offer....
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Old 04-02-2010, 06:44 AM   #835
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Well that makes sense. But you have to agree that a lower wind is going to pull more power out of the pack. At what point is an aggressive timing ramp going to pull more than a lower wind? with out a data logger, your guess is as good as mine.
i have a data logger.

the deal with mod motor is that they pull power out of the battery more linear then the fast timing advances that we are using. remember I said that I am averaging 28amp for an 8min race with a 13.5. i think you see spike when the timing is ramping and you are hard accelerating. i have not run mod with the logger, but I bet that the drain on the battery during my 50 degree timing advance in 2500rpm and hard accelerating out of a corner pulls way more current then mod would. and when I say mod, i am talking about one that someone would race with, not a 2.5 or something silly

even the 2s guys are seeing brown out. and if you look at their setups, they all have massive amounts of timing advance. the only reason we don't see this in one cell is because of the separate power we are providing to the electronics. I guarantee you that those guys in 2s that are having brown out, if they would run a rx pack, there issues would be gone. I am not even sure that a cap would fix their problem. only because a cap is usually from small tarsitions if power requirement and the larger the cap, the longer it takes to charge. and I bet they cap does not get time to charge completely on some tracks.
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Old 04-02-2010, 07:53 AM   #836
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For those that for some crazy reason want to contninue to run a Novak booster in single cell try this.

This is assuming the booster "actually works" like some say it does.

Run the booster in practice back to back with an RX pack. Keep motor battery gearing the same. Now compare you're lap times.

A good RX pack will be 1-2 tenths faster then the NOVAK. Not saying all boosters just the novak. If you don't believe me try it.
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Old 04-02-2010, 09:15 AM   #837
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Default RX Pack?

Guys, give me an idea of what a good rx pack would be to try. I'm running an RS with a 17.5 Epic Duo 2 with a booster but I'd like to try running an RX pack.

Second question (probably a dumb one at that) when it's mentioned to gear "lighter" does that mean a larger or smaller pinion gear?

Thanks for the help
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Old 04-02-2010, 09:26 AM   #838
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Originally Posted by Bobinmt View Post
Guys, give me an idea of what a good rx pack would be to try. I'm running an RS with a 17.5 Epic Duo 2 with a booster but I'd like to try running an RX pack.

Second question (probably a dumb one at that) when it's mentioned to gear "lighter" does that mean a larger or smaller pinion gear?

Thanks for the help
I use the Trinity Life 220 mah pack. Includes the plug-in connector and an on/off switch.

"Lighter" is a smaller pinion.

Bill
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Old 04-02-2010, 09:38 AM   #839
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I use the Trinity Life 220 mah pack. Includes the plug-in connector and an on/off switch.

"Lighter" is a smaller pinion.

Bill
Awesome thanks Bill, how big is that Life and how many runs per charge can I expect to get out of it? I'm running a 12th scale so there's not a lot of room

Bob
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Old 04-02-2010, 09:45 AM   #840
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Awesome thanks Bill, how big is that Life and how many runs per charge can I expect to get out of it? I'm running a 12th scale so there's not a lot of room

Bob
That Rx pack is 220mah and I normally use about half per 8 minute heat.

I have it servo taped next to the Spektrum Micro Rx in my 12r5.1.

The biggest problem with that pack is the switch connections, they tend to break off.
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