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Old 02-11-2010, 11:52 AM   #751
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Sometimes I've seen that happen, but after trying to uncheck the box for a second time and applying the changes the settings changed as I desired. You could also downgrade the software (try V 2.00) and perform the upgrade to V 2.03 again to see if it makes a difference.

The cutoff, when activated, will cause the car to seem like it's suddenly losing power, then stops moving altogether. I've hit the cutoff once, and glad that I had it active - doing so might have saved the battery...
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Old 02-11-2010, 12:05 PM   #752
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Yeah just keep hitting it until it takes it. Might take a few tries but it will eventually.
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Old 02-11-2010, 01:29 PM   #753
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What was really wierd was after not accepting the unchecked box, I also changed another setting and unchecked the box and only the other seting was accepted.

Strange
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Old 02-11-2010, 04:33 PM   #754
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For those of you using the 220mah Li-Fe receiver pack how many amps do you charge the pack at and can you leave the pack fully charged or does it need to discharged down so many percent?
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Old 02-11-2010, 07:31 PM   #755
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For those of you using the 220mah Li-Fe receiver pack how many amps do you charge the pack at and can you leave the pack fully charged or does it need to discharged down so many percent?
I charge mine at 0.8A. No discharging necessary.

I believe charging at 4.5 times the pack's rating is OK; so, 1.0A works. I am just being safe.

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Old 02-11-2010, 08:27 PM   #756
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For those of you using the 220mah Li-Fe receiver pack how many amps do you charge the pack at and can you leave the pack fully charged or does it need to discharged down so many percent?
I charge at 1amp using a LiFe profile on my $50 Loong-Max charger.

One thing I noticed is that the switch isn't soldered on very well and the wires can break off. I resoldered mine and they have stayed put.
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Old 02-11-2010, 10:08 PM   #757
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I charge at 1amp using a LiFe profile on my $50 Loong-Max charger.

One thing I noticed is that the switch isn't soldered on very well and the wires can break off. I resoldered mine and they have stayed put.
Poor quality switch. I already replaced it.
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Old 02-12-2010, 07:40 AM   #758
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Hi all

Here is the situation I am in with a Tekin RS and my 12th scaler

GEN-XL
1S Lipo rated 4900 mAh
2S RX pack rated 250 mAh
Voltage Regulator to RX rated 6V 1.5 A
Tekin RS FW V203
Hotwire V4.0

Was running practice with V203 and was fine for 5 laps then all of a sudden it started sputtering/bogging down, temp was under 100F. Back to the bench, the motor will quickly bog down when throttle is pressed quickly, it can ramp slowly and turn the motor until it reaches the RPM Start range (maybe). I monitered the RX pack output via scope and remained constant at 6V. Vbat at esc +/- was monitored with scope and found to be solid until the bogging/sputtering occurs, then I get a 4.1V nominal with a Vpp at 3.5/4.4V so this indicates large current surge. Also when the motor bogs down I get a high pitched squeel out of the RS.

Tried changing FW back to V198 and this got better if not totally back to normal.

Reset FW back to V203 and got same results (BAD). I reduced the Timing down to 20 degrees and same result. Reduced down to 0 degrees same result.

All motor connections seem fine, motor timing mechanically is at 0 on my Havok 17.5

Not sure where to go from here except reconfirm V198 has no issue.

Thanks
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Old 02-12-2010, 08:03 AM   #759
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Souds like a motor sensor problem to me. Try switching motors.
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Old 02-12-2010, 08:20 AM   #760
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Originally Posted by rinkrat99 View Post
Hi all

Was running practice with V203 and was fine for 5 laps then all of a sudden it started sputtering/bogging down, temp was under 100F. Back to the bench, the motor will quickly bog down when throttle is pressed quickly, it can ramp slowly and turn the motor until it reaches the RPM Start range (maybe).

hen I get a 4.1V nominal with a Vpp at 3.5/4.4V so this indicates large current surge. Also when the motor bogs down I get a high pitched squeel out of the RS.

Tried changing FW back to V198 and this got better if not totally back to normal.

Reset FW back to V203 and got same results (BAD). I reduced the Timing down to 20 degrees and same result. Reduced down to 0 degrees same result.


Not sure where to go from here except reconfirm V198 has no issue.

Thanks
i had a similiar experience, the motor would spin up ok if you added throttle slowly, but a quick pull of the trigger and you could see the motor wires staighten out but the motor wouldn't budge, and switching back to v200 was ok.

out of frustration i opened up the motor and found one of the power bars had a weak solder connection to its stator wire. resoldering it resolved the problem. i can't say i understand why, but the timing advance characteristic of v203 must have had something to do with it.
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Old 02-12-2010, 09:37 AM   #761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rinkrat99 View Post
Was running practice with V203 and was fine for 5 laps then all of a sudden it started sputtering/bogging down, temp was under 100F. Back to the bench, the motor will quickly bog down when throttle is pressed quickly, it can ramp slowly and turn the motor until it reaches the RPM Start range (maybe). I monitered the RX pack output via scope and remained constant at 6V. Vbat at esc +/- was monitored with scope and found to be solid until the bogging/sputtering occurs, then I get a 4.1V nominal with a Vpp at 3.5/4.4V so this indicates large current surge. Also when the motor bogs down I get a high pitched squeel out of the RS.

Tried changing FW back to V198 and this got better if not totally back to normal.

Reset FW back to V203 and got same results (BAD). I reduced the Timing down to 20 degrees and same result. Reduced down to 0 degrees same result.

All motor connections seem fine, motor timing mechanically is at 0 on my Havok 17.5

Not sure where to go from here except reconfirm V198 has no issue.

Thanks
This sounds like a motor with a bad sensor or a bad harness. V203 requires 100% solid sensor signals or can cause the cogging/squeeling you're describing. Use the RS's sensor checker feature to verify the sensors are working.
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Old 02-12-2010, 09:58 AM   #762
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Hi Randy

How do I check the RS's sensor checker feature?

Thanks
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Old 02-12-2010, 10:30 AM   #763
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Hi Randy

How do I check the RS's sensor checker feature?

Thanks
I believe you simply spin the rear wheels slowly by hand while the car is on and ready to run, the last 3 lights on the ESC should flicker.
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Old 02-15-2010, 03:32 PM   #764
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Okay, I have read through most of this thread and have not seen anybody else with this issue. I just installed a new RS in my 12th and loaded Jeff Cuffs set-up on it before I installed it (V203). I get everything put together and turn on the radio then booster, servo moves and the micro spectrum receiver starts blinking. I rebind the radio and receiver servo works and I have zero lights on the RS. I hook the RS into the receiver on my sonís truck and was able to calibrate it to the radio and the light turned on, but that was with 2C, hooked back up to 1C and still has no lights and every time I turn it off I have to rebind the radio and receiver just to get the servo to work. I have been through several scenarios and nothing has worked to this point. The battery is fully charged. Any suggestions on what it could be?
Equipment used: M8 Radio, Spectrum micro receiver, Novak booster, and IP 40C. I was running an SPX with no issues, just changed the speedo.
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Old 02-15-2010, 03:36 PM   #765
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Do you have the voltage cutoff set to either 2 or 3? This means 2s or 3s. Try turning the voltage cutoff "off".
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