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Tekin RS/RS PRO on 1s Lipo Q&A

Tekin RS/RS PRO on 1s Lipo Q&A

Old 02-03-2010, 05:51 PM
  #736  
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Originally Posted by inconceivable View Post
As mentioned many times on this thread, I too am having the issue with the RS, V203, 1S, 13.5, Novak Booster "browning" out. I just got off the phone with Novak and they say to try removing the red wire from the ESC harness ...... has anyone tried this with success ? Using a RX pack fixes the issue, but I'd really like to not have to do this. Thanks.
It is not possible to use a Novak Booster with V203. Removing the red wire does absolutely nothing.
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Old 02-03-2010, 05:56 PM
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Thanks for the feedback on the RS with 2S Lipo rx pack. When we talk about the RS losing its brain, is this due to the 1S 3.7V pack going low on voltage, 2S RX pack going low or something else? I am trying to understand which voltage input is actually powering the ASIC inside the RS. Is it the RX Connection or the Batt input?
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Old 02-03-2010, 06:41 PM
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Has anyone run a 2S lipo reciever pack with a coule of 3A diodes in series to drop the voltage to closer to 6V?

I have done this to my transmitter battery and it works great
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Old 02-03-2010, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
Has anyone run a 2S lipo reciever pack with a coule of 3A diodes in series to drop the voltage to closer to 6V?

I have done this to my transmitter battery and it works great
That's what I'm doing, though my diodes combined are only dropping the voltage by .6 volts (I checked ).

I need to find a couple diodes with a bigger voltage drop but I think I might just ditch them altogether. No one else is having trouble with my servo/Rx combo running straight.
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Old 02-03-2010, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
Bill,
+1, but im not getting 3 runs..What servo do you use and how long are your races?
I run WGT with a CRC Gen X-10 using a JR 3650 servo for 6-minute runs. The Trinity 220 mah li-fe pack gives me 3 runs of 6-minutes each. For racing conditions, I charge it every other run.

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Old 02-03-2010, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by lidebt2 View Post
I run SMC reciever packs in my oval cars.

I have NOT disconnected any wires.

Turning the car on: reciever pack then Tekin.

Turning car off: Tekin then reciever pack.
with the new 203 if you run 1s leave the switch on if you want the voltage cutoff to work, turn the switch off if not. Put the switch in the position you want on or off and hide it so corner Marshall's will not fine it. No need to turn it on and off just use the receiver pack. It is in the Mark Brown directions on using hotwire with 203 on the tekin web site. I run the tunderpower pack it's 230mah weight is 15 grams cost is 12.99 20c plane pack I run the 3650 servo get the same 3 runs but only run 2 then recharge it. It will also make two eight min races.
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Old 02-05-2010, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
That's what I'm doing, though my diodes combined are only dropping the voltage by .6 volts (I checked ).

I need to find a couple diodes with a bigger voltage drop but I think I might just ditch them altogether. No one else is having trouble with my servo/Rx combo running straight.
Are you running them in Series or Parallel? They should each drop the voltage my .6-.7V I am running 2x 3A Diodes in Series to get my 1.3V drop to get my 3S lipo down to under 11V fully charged.
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Old 02-05-2010, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
Are you running them in Series or Parallel? They should each drop the voltage my .6-.7V I am running 2x 3A Diodes in Series to get my 1.3V drop to get my 3S lipo down to under 11V fully charged.
Series, but not all diodes are the same. Voltage drop can very from as little as .1 to .7 depending on the type and application. The chart on the ones I bought said I would see about a .5 drop (1.0 combined) but actual testing only showed .3 each.
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:28 PM
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It also depends on the current (milli Amps) that your radio is using. I have a Futaba 2.4Ghz Which pulls about 445 milliamps (.445 Amps) I forget the diodes I got but they are pretty good. pulling .6 ish per diode.


I'd just add more but also check your amp dray as you add the diodes that it does not get into a heat issue
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:36 PM
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Default Tekin on 1s

Hey Guys im going to try my new tekin in my 1/12th scale and i was after some help. Ill be running the car in mod with a 4T brushless. Can anyone point me to a base setup or post 1. Ill be using the new 203 software.

Ok do i need to run a booster? I have the the bobbycity booster atm. Can i use the speedy switch? I cant with my LRP. Do i run dual mode on the speedy? Do i need to, or can i run any or minimal boost on the speedy?

Just need the basic info so i can use it and test it. Sorry new to the Tekin thing

Many thanks,

Antoni
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Old 02-08-2010, 12:09 AM
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Ant run the speedy in dual mode, cant remember what settings we were using but you want to be pretty aggressive with the timing like around 80-90 i think. A little current limiting i think is also a good thing like down to around 90. Dont remember the approx rollout we were using

The speedy will get hot so keep an eye on it and make sure the solder posts face out of the car to help with cooling.


The 203 software doesnt like the novak smartboost. Probably due to the low cut off circuitry in them. You will probably find that your booster will be fine.

Also you probably want to set the voltage cutoff on the speedy and make sure it is turned on when you run. You should be fine, but will probably go close to run time.
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Old 02-08-2010, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
Ant run the speedy in dual mode, cant remember what settings we were using but you want to be pretty aggressive with the timing like around 80-90 i think. A little current limiting i think is also a good thing like down to around 90. Dont remember the approx rollout we were using

The speedy will get hot so keep an eye on it and make sure the solder posts face out of the car to help with cooling.


The 203 software doesnt like the novak smartboost. Probably due to the low cut off circuitry in them. You will probably find that your booster will be fine.

Also you probably want to set the voltage cutoff on the speedy and make sure it is turned on when you run. You should be fine, but will probably go close to run time.
Cool thanks for that. So do i need to unplug the red receiver wire so i can use the switch? or no switch at all? Dont want to blow the thing up
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Old 02-08-2010, 02:18 AM
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Nope leave the red wire in. That was something from the old days.....

But you can actually leave the speed controller switched off with the receiver pack. Everything runs like normal with the exception of the LiPo cutoff doesnt kick in.

when you slect the 1s box note you still have to go in and custom set the Voltage Cutoff to 3v.

Also when you are switching the speedie on, you should
Turn on radio
Turn on booster (let the receiver sync up and the esc start up)
Turn on speedie switch

Oh also a few things
Set the neutral width to really low, i think i had mine on 1 led. Set the break strength to 100 (tune it on your radio, a lot of people complain about breaks on the RS although that shouldnt be a problem with 12th scale :P)
I think drag brakes you want to start around the 25 mark maybe as high as 35.
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Old 02-08-2010, 03:58 AM
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Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
Nope leave the red wire in. That was something from the old days.....

But you can actually leave the speed controller switched off with the receiver pack. Everything runs like normal with the exception of the LiPo cutoff doesnt kick in.

when you slect the 1s box note you still have to go in and custom set the Voltage Cutoff to 3v.

Also when you are switching the speedie on, you should
Turn on radio
Turn on booster (let the receiver sync up and the esc start up)
Turn on speedie switch

Oh also a few things
Set the neutral width to really low, i think i had mine on 1 led. Set the break strength to 100 (tune it on your radio, a lot of people complain about breaks on the RS although that shouldnt be a problem with 12th scale :P)
I think drag brakes you want to start around the 25 mark maybe as high as 35.
Cool thanks again Hope all goes well, now i just have to put it in haha
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Old 02-11-2010, 10:24 AM
  #750  
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Anyone have issues with the V4.0 software not allowing the UNCHECK of the 1S box with V203 Firmware?

For some reason I cannot get this unchecked and accepted by the esc.

I am running a 2S RX pack with 6V regulator to RX.

What does the 1S LiPo cutoff sound like? Does it just sputter or something else?

Thanks
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