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Old 03-15-2009, 08:40 PM   #61
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Hey guys,

Time to start talking about 1s and the Tekin RS esc. Currently the setup we're recomending is to use a Booster or reciever pack and leave our red wire in and the esc switch in the off position. This provides full power from the battery at all times, but de-activates the lipo cutoff.

Run time isn't an issue with this for 8 minute racing. If you've driven one of these you can go around 12 minutes or more and you can tell when the pack goes flat indicating it's time to stop.

We're working on a 1s profile that can be used which will allow the same setup as above only keep the esc switch in the on position allowing the 1s voltage cut off to be used.

The team has tested this setup with great results. If you have any questions or are looking for setup help feel free to ask.

ok i have a stupid question. just got my 3.7 and found out i need a booster or rx pack.. that I get but what i dont quiet get is the part i high lighted in red. What do you mean by leave your red wire in? and the esc will work with this setup with it switched off? assuming i dont get that part because i dont understand the leave the red wire in part. Perhaps someone could send me a pic. that would be greatly appreciated.

thanks
Dan
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Old 03-15-2009, 09:45 PM   #62
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ok i have a stupid question. just got my 3.7 and found out i need a booster or rx pack.. that I get but what i dont quiet get is the part i high lighted in red. What do you mean by leave your red wire in? and the esc will work with this setup with it switched off? assuming i dont get that part because i dont understand the leave the red wire in part. Perhaps someone could send me a pic. that would be greatly appreciated.

thanks
Dan
We just ran an exhibition race here in Colorado that 3 out of 7 racers ran Tekin RS ESC's. The set up that worked with 189 software for us was to install a servo plug from attached to the deans plug from the +/- post off the the deans plug attached to the RS. Plug the booster into the lead and then in to the battery slot on the receiver. As stated above, plug the ESC as you would normally, but dont turn on the RS. Once the power is on to the receiver, you set to go.

I used this set up to TQ and win the class.

Will be glad to have the voltage cut off just to be safe.

I could post a picture in a day or so if wanted.

GREAT ESC Guy's!!!
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Old 03-15-2009, 09:53 PM   #63
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which booster were you using? the only one i can find out there is the novak smart boost. but its 40 bucks i can get a reciever pack for that ya know.
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Old 03-15-2009, 10:01 PM   #64
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I just got word back from our team driver Steve Salvas that he's had great success running the Tekin RS on 1s with the VC set at 3 volts using a TQ Cells booster unit. He said that it worked great and the VC settings worked as expected.

www.tqcells.com
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which booster were you using? the only one i can find out there is the novak smart boost. but its 40 bucks i can get a reciever pack for that ya know.

In the quote above yours Randy posted a link to the TQ site. I have this booster on order, the cost was'nt bad but for some reason the shipping was abit expensive. Could be that TQ is outside the US, I did'nt ask. Mine should be here this week so I can try this setup out on Fri.
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Old 03-16-2009, 02:39 AM   #65
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oh man i totally didnt see the link thanks
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Old 03-16-2009, 05:32 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by witz_dan View Post
ok i have a stupid question. just got my 3.7 and found out i need a booster or rx pack.. that I get but what i dont quiet get is the part i high lighted in red. What do you mean by leave your red wire in? and the esc will work with this setup with it switched off? assuming i dont get that part because i dont understand the leave the red wire in part. Perhaps someone could send me a pic. that would be greatly appreciated.

thanks
Dan
What they mean is leave the speedo wired to the receiver as you normally would. This comes from the old days when some speedo's needed to have the red wire pulled out of the receiver plug for the speedo to work properly.
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Old 03-16-2009, 06:39 AM   #67
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which booster were you using? the only one i can find out there is the novak smart boost. but its 40 bucks i can get a reciever pack for that ya know.
We had one racer purchase a dozen from China for $6 ea plus shipping. I'll get the web site and post it back hear latter today.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=7884
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Old 03-16-2009, 08:12 AM   #68
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i had an old 4 cell rx pack i plugged in to see it work. I had no idea it would work like that. so that is cool
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Old 03-16-2009, 08:15 AM   #69
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So since the voltage on the 3.7 is lower then on a typical 4 cell pack. what would you run motor wise to keep up with guys running 13.5 and 19 turn?
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Old 03-16-2009, 09:08 AM   #70
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So since the voltage on the 3.7 is lower then on a typical 4 cell pack. what would you run motor wise to keep up with guys running 13.5 and 19 turn?
That was a long talk we had after the racing yesterday. We had 7 cars running 1 cell lipo and 18 cars running 4 cell stock with some cross over, so a good cross section of racers.

I think the 10.5 / 1 cell felt like a 19 turn brushed motor as to rip out of a corner and maybe a little faster on the straight (I was pretty close on gearing as I run 10.5 / 4 cell in oval). Our lap times were faster than all but one stock racer who is off to nationals, and this was the first day for the class.

I think the 13.5 would be closer, but would in my opinion, best to run them in thier own class.

FYI ... we set the weight at 700gm for the 1 cell cars.
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Old 03-16-2009, 12:32 PM   #71
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so your brushed guys are running 27t. and you think a 13.5 would be pretty close? our brushed guys are running 19t so im thinking i need to run an 8.5?!?

has anyone tried out that $6 booster?
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Old 03-16-2009, 12:34 PM   #72
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we don't get enough 12th scale guys to break it up so I'm just trying to stay close to them.

nice paint job on your 12th by the way
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Old 03-16-2009, 12:45 PM   #73
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If you want to be a little slower than the 19 turn guys run 13.5 with the car light (700 grams). With the 1.89 software it should be close to 19 turn but a little off on the infield (less punch). If you want to be a little faster, run a 10.5 and add weight to get the car closer to 4 cell weight. The added weight will pull the car back to 19 turn speeds.

You probably won't beat a 19 turn with the 13.5 but you should beat it with a 10.5 easily at 700 grams.
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Old 03-16-2009, 01:02 PM   #74
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cool thanks fred.
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Old 03-16-2009, 03:05 PM   #75
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nice paint job on your 12th by the way
Actually the car in the Avatar is my 235 2cell Lipo, 10.5 car for outside on the pavement. 1/12 scale is similar, just not as much area to paint.

Fred is dead on with how they should run.

On our track this weekend, the brushless had the field covered. By the end of the first round, all the 27turn bushed cars switched to brushless.
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