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Old 11-11-2009, 04:10 PM   #526
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Anyone know what the specs are on the TQ booster? I'm curious as to the output voltage and current capacity of the TQ booster.
If TQ is getting them from the place I think they're getting them from it's 5v and 1 amp (1.5 amp surge).

I have seen a couple of failures on the TQ boosters (smoked or wrong/high voltage). I switched to a Novak booster and it works great for 17.5 and 13.5. Plus it has a cutoff built in.

The Novak seems to go into failsafe a little early for mod so I switched to a receiver pack. You can dump in mod on a big bumpy track.
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Old 11-19-2009, 11:35 AM   #527
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Does anyone have any feedback about running boost and turbo on the RS with mod?

I was of the impression that turbo doesnt do particularly good things to a motor, and i thought all the mod setups were for dual mode. One of my friends pointed out the setup sheet on the website, by Dave Arnold, which runs minimal boost and max turbo on a 4.5 motor.

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Old 11-19-2009, 12:26 PM   #528
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i would suspect that in mod, there are very few that are running either. since well, you can just adjust the motor or change motors. i know dumas ran dual mode in mod at the IIC. i am not sure timing or turbo would do much for mod
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Old 11-19-2009, 06:05 PM   #529
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Yeah my friend was desoldering leads (although its starting to get hot where we are) and he had 60 current limiting. But i was telling him that boost was a really bad idea with mod motors and telling him not do it before he pointed out the team driver setup. Which is actually the only one posted for 12th scale.

I actually didnt believe him and had to go and check it myself. Personally i was going off the setups of the guys from Vegas and i thought they were good setups in the first place.

Although the setup actually states the guy has done the case mod of drilling holes in it, so i guess the esc was getting ummmm TOASTY!
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Old 11-19-2009, 06:57 PM   #530
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Turbo can be ran on a mod in 1/12 with the RS but you must take some steps to make it right.

First take out all the motor timing, next run 0 to no timing boost. Then slowly work in some turbo or boost. The setup is VERY sensitive to timing adjustments SO I reccomend running 0 motor timing, no turbo, no boost to get the gearing close with that. Then start adding small changes.

As an example we tried 0 motor timing, 5 on timing boost and 10 on turbo with .4 delay at Vegas and it worked very well. However it does eat the battery more so we didn't feel comfortable with run time being so close. It was fast as hell though.
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Old 11-20-2009, 05:45 AM   #531
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Thanks for the reply Randy. I think i'll just stick to dual mode.

Sounds a lot safer and less time consuming to find the optimal setup
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Old 11-21-2009, 06:29 PM   #532
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Wood, no. Unless you're going to run mod motors like 5.5's etc there is no need to get the RS Pro. The RS can easily handle spec motors.
i thought the rs will go down to a 5.0t motor without issues?

i was planning to break all the rules in this thread, rs with 5.0t on 1s lipo using a 2s lipo receiver pack.
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Old 11-21-2009, 07:06 PM   #533
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i thought the rs will go down to a 5.0t motor without issues?

i was planning to break all the rules in this thread, rs with 5.0t on 1s lipo using a 2s lipo receiver pack.
The regular RS is rather unhappy on 1 cell with anything less than a 5.5

The Pro fits fine in 12th and the car should balance out fine with a little added weight you'll need to get up to the minimum.

If you want to try running a hotter motor with the regular RS I would recommend really heavy gage wire to the battery. The heavy wire helps act like a heatsink. Also, Only servo tape the outer edge of the speedo down. The tape insulates the fets (they're on the bottom) and it makes things run hotter.

Just remember that running the speedo right on the edge of cutting off is really hard on it. Don't expect it to last forever this way.
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Old 11-21-2009, 07:14 PM   #534
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I reccomend the RS Pro for 1/12 mod with low turn motors.

The RS is sepc'd down to a 5.5 on 2s, not 1s. When we spec'd the unit we weren't using 1s.

It might be possible. TO maximize the abilities of the RS run two caps, face the solder posts so they get some clean air, give it a go.
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Old 11-21-2009, 07:20 PM   #535
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that's funny, looking at some esc spec's it seems you can run lower turn motors with less voltage.

might have to re-evaluate my setup

i can always bump up to a 5.5t or 6.0t motor

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Old 11-21-2009, 08:21 PM   #536
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One of the guys locally was running an RS standard with a 4.5 and lipo. However, i dont know what settings he is running as my RS Pro is getting pretty warm with a 4.0.
I would suggest going with what the RS Pro like the team guys say

Interesting comment about the tape on the bottom. I was wondering why someone said they drilled holes in the bottom of the case for cooling.
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Old 11-21-2009, 08:30 PM   #537
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so is that the case mod i've been hearing about, just drilling holes in the bottom of the case?
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Old 11-21-2009, 08:45 PM   #538
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so is that the case mod i've been hearing about, just drilling holes in the bottom of the case?
Yup. But it's not needed as long as you're running the correct speedo in 12th. Lets in tire dust and dirty crud that could cause problems.

If you run any of the newer 40C packs you'll have to gear (or drive) to keep the speedo from overheating. I have run a regular RS with a 4.5 before but it's really hard on the speedo. It's a lot worse if there's good bite or a lot of bumps.

The pro won't even break a sweat in 12th with single cell. You'll dump way before it overheats.
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Old 11-27-2009, 06:28 PM   #539
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Anyone know why the 3.25 upgrade is not working and how you get 198 or 200 firmware?
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Old 11-27-2009, 06:44 PM   #540
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Anyone know why the 3.25 upgrade is not working and how you get 198 or 200 firmware?
try here, http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...sored-556.html

post #8339

Last edited by LOW ET; 11-28-2009 at 05:26 AM.
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