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Old 08-06-2009, 12:36 AM   #181
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i got the rs and have been using it in 2s lipo offroad but time to change to VTA and 1/12, both will be running on 1s lipo. so my question is do we need to run a booster or receiver pack? i understand we can but do we need to? last winter i tested other brands and had mixed results.
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Old 08-06-2009, 01:27 AM   #182
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So, using RS/RS Pro with 1C, is it necessary to use a voltage booster?
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Old 08-06-2009, 05:13 AM   #183
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Originally Posted by MaxSp97 View Post
Did anyone run with 10.5 motor?
I want to run the RS with 10.5 motor.
Do I need the RS Pro for 10.5 motor?
I need help for the Roll Out.
The track straight away is 120.
Tire is 46mm.
Any help is appreciated.
No you dont need the Pro version for a 10.5, only for 5.5 or lower.
To give you a ballpark roll out, im using a 82mm on a 110' track.
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Old 08-06-2009, 05:15 AM   #184
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So, using RS/RS Pro with 1C, is it necessary to use a voltage booster?
Yes, a booster is needed to run the receiver electronics, give faster servo operation, and run the AMB transponders properly. A separate receiver pack can work instead of a booster as well, you just need to be sure to keep it charged.

Knowing Tekin, they are probably working on a version of the RS with a booster built-in.
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Old 08-06-2009, 08:17 PM   #185
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Yes, a booster is needed to run the receiver electronics, give faster servo operation, and run the AMB transponders properly. A separate receiver pack can work instead of a booster as well, you just need to be sure to keep it charged.

Knowing Tekin, they are probably working on a version of the RS with a booster built-in.

Thanks. I will stick with what I am using now and wait for RS with a booster built-in. Hopefully, it won't take too long.
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Old 08-08-2009, 06:50 AM   #186
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Randy or Fred B,

Can you confirm if the TQ booster is as good as the Novak? I love the size of the TQ but from what I understand the voltage is a bit lower. Am I sacrafising anything it terms of response/speed?

Thanks,
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Old 08-08-2009, 07:30 AM   #187
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Randy or Fred B,

Can you confirm if the TQ booster is as good as the Novak? I love the size of the TQ but from what I understand the voltage is a bit lower. Am I sacrafising anything it terms of response/speed?

Thanks,
I'm not either one of them guys. But I run the TQ Cells booster and it works awesome. No problems in the 8 minute runs.
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Old 08-08-2009, 07:42 AM   #188
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I'm not either one of them guys. But I run the TQ Cells booster and it works awesome. No problems in the 8 minute runs.
+1,
i have 1 tq booster and 1 from hobbyking, both work fine.

the hobbyking needs a little more work to rig a switch and wire to battery. (the ESC wants to see the 'boosted' voltage)
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Old 08-08-2009, 12:25 PM   #189
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There's nothing wrong with the TQ/HobbyKing boosters. I've seen a couple that didn't work but mine's been working fine.

That being said I'll be buying a Novak booster this season. It's 6v and a Novak so there's actually some customer service if you have a problem/question.

Perhaps Tekin will look at building up a booster (with a built in switch please).
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Old 08-08-2009, 12:36 PM   #190
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Perhaps Tekin will look at building up a booster (with a built in switch please).
I second that. A switch and NOT include 12 inches of wire length. We're not zig-zagging these things across a 1/8 scale.
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Old 08-08-2009, 01:35 PM   #191
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I'd rather see a couple of small solder tabs so that I can make the lead for exactly what I'm running.
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Old 08-08-2009, 05:13 PM   #192
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+1 on that Fred, it would be nice of TEKIN to do that
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Old 08-08-2009, 10:21 PM   #193
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Hi Fred.

Would you mind posting your speedo/motor setup for us to see. Also what did you like the best between 189,194, and 198. It would be nice to hear a Team guy setup.

brand motor /how much timing with 13.5
boost
drag break
nuetral band
throttle profile
break strength

Rollout on a sweeper type track medium tech.

Throttle/ brake EPA on KO radio. Also do you run throttle punch?

I think that is it.

Thanks,

Travis
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Old 08-09-2009, 10:24 AM   #194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by march to my own View Post
Hi Fred.

Would you mind posting your speedo/motor setup for us to see. Also what did you like the best between 189,194, and 198. It would be nice to hear a Team guy setup.

brand motor /how much timing with 13.5
boost
drag break
nuetral band
throttle profile
break strength

Rollout on a sweeper type track medium tech.

Throttle/ brake EPA on KO radio. Also do you run throttle punch?

I think that is it.

Thanks,

Travis
Uh, I'm not a team guy

I haven't run 12th all summer so I haven't run any of the new stuff yet. My money is on running the new turbo software this winter. It's going to be pretty sweet once I get some more time on it. The new batteries and speedo's are going to totally change what we run IMO.

My motor and speedo settings usually get a stern "you should never do that" so it's important to experiment a little to see what works for you. I was running a Novak 13.5 with full motor timing. We also ran 17.5 at the end of the year with full motor timing. I think that the sensors are reading differently on single cell because you pretty much can't do this with 6 cell and run a bunch of boost.


boost (20-30)
drag brake (none ever) Tune the car to turn without drag brakes.
nuetral band (10) Feels funny if you go lower
throttle profile (4) even in mod for me...
brake strength (100%) and adjust down on the radio to keep from locking up.

For gearing all bets are off because of the new batteries. My best advice is to gear way down, and go up from there untill the laptimes start to fall off a lot at the end of the run. I was shooting for about 2 tenths drop from the 5th lap to the last lap. The first laps are usually a little high because of traction and a cool motor so I throw those out.

I used to run a ton of punch on the radio but not so much any more. I've been setting the EPA's to 90 calibrating the speedo and then bumping the EPA's up to 100. When I set the speedo like this I can adjust the punch a little at a time to get rid of the dead spot at neutral (it's only there in stock/superstock).

Most important thing is to run the correct tires. Purple or magenta fronts and yellow rears. Just keep an eye on the rears and glue them when they start to chunk. Rotating a few sets of rears helps keep them from soaking up traction and blowing out. Wear with the yellows is not that bad with single cell.
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Old 08-09-2009, 09:16 PM   #195
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Thanks Fred.

I guess I just assumed you were. I have watched you run before. You are very quick!
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