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Old 06-02-2009, 10:30 PM   #166
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Coming from the SPX on profile 6, I rolled at 90mm on this track. #6 does not have that crazy motor map like 7 & 8. I have not found LRP's advanced timing to work very well on 4 cells let alone on 1c. After hearing rave reviews from the Tekin camp, here I am! I have another car set up to run heads up against that still has the LRP equipment in it with some past knowledge to base against. I am hopeful with the 1c cut off option, the boost range, I am hoping to surpass the other car by a fair margin. The track wont lie!

As for the NW, I played with the throttle trim some to creep up on the edge of the "throttle on", but it seemed to wash down the drag brake. I could be wrong, but it would seem that if neutral possessed a drag brake value, then I would think that changing trim would not alter it, but it appears that it does. I will know a lot more after hitting the track tomorrow. There should be some laptops set up trackside that I can get a few tweaks from. I'll ease up on NW right away and deal with it.

Can you guys suggest a boost range with a 13.5 Duo set at 0 that I should be at? Instructions say shoot for 30*. I set boost for 25 incase there is some motor timing above 0.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 06-02-2009, 10:41 PM   #167
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I have 2 questions that I am trying to clear up. I have Hotwire 3.25 on my PC. I also updated the RS Pro to 198 and everything seems good.

When you set the boost slider in sensered only mode and you have it at 25, is that number in degrees or just a reference number? I am assuming its degrees.

If I am using a Trinity Duo 13.5 set with zero mechanical timing, are we still adding 15 degrees to whatever I set the slider too. Example would be 25 on the slider, zero on the motor, and 15 degrees of "pre read" for 40 degrees, or is it just 25 degrees?

Thanks,
Steve
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Old 06-04-2009, 01:44 AM   #168
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Well.....
What a night of racing with the new Tekin RS Pro. Things went very well even though I goofed initially with the motor timing.... what I thought was zero was in fact the 20* spot. Whoops. First run was 0* at the motor, 25 for boost, r/o at 80mm and temp was 138F. Next run was 10* at the motor, 20 for boost, r/o at 80mm and the temp was 160F. For the main, I went back to 0* the motor, back to 25 boost and rolled out a little higher at 82mm and it came off a tick cooler at 131F. The drag brake set at 40 seemed ineffective, but was rather nice at 55. The 3.000v cut off seemed flawless. The neutral width was opened up to 10 from 1 even though I did not feel ill effects of a big dead band on the track. Results for the night were also impressive. TQ for the evening over the all cars, even the 4 cell/13.5 rides by 1/2 a lap. Set fast lap by .05, again over the 4 cell cars. And won the main by a lap! Couldn't have done much better.

As far as testing heads up against my other ride with the LRP SPX.... there was a pretty clear picture that we agreed upon that the Tekin was a stronger package. I will be mounting some more of these speedos real soon. In all fairness, the LRP is an outstanding speedo in the touring car, so this just seems to be a matter of picking your weapon for the battle.

Oh, the prototype MS3 1c lipo t-bar car did pretty good too!

Brian
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Old 07-31-2009, 08:03 AM   #169
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I have an RS in my DB10R and it will not work with my 1c lipo. I have 198 and have the 1c box checked and fully charged lipo. When I hook uo the batt and turn the car on i get lights 1,2 and 6,7, but when I wiggle the steering a little teh esc arms without the beeps. Then it lights like it is working when I pull the throttle, but the motor is not running. I tried it with a 2c lipo and it works fine. Anybody have any ideas what's up with this?
Posted this in the regular RS thread but got no real answer, thought I'd try here.
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Old 07-31-2009, 08:50 AM   #170
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Originally Posted by JCarr View Post
I have an RS in my DB10R and it will not work with my 1c lipo. I have 198 and have the 1c box checked and fully charged lipo. When I hook uo the batt and turn the car on i get lights 1,2 and 6,7, but when I wiggle the steering a little teh esc arms without the beeps. Then it lights like it is working when I pull the throttle, but the motor is not running. I tried it with a 2c lipo and it works fine. Anybody have any ideas what's up with this?
Posted this in the regular RS thread but got no real answer, thought I'd try here.
i recall that there was a rerelease of the 198 due to a problem with the 1c functionality. due to the search fiasco on this forum i can't find the relevant post at the moment. but are you certain that you have the later 're'release of the hotwire software?

also, mine does function with just the 1c but i use a receiver battery (5cell)
what happens if you leave the rs switch off and plug a 5cell into the receiver for power?
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Old 07-31-2009, 09:10 AM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCarr View Post
I have an RS in my DB10R and it will not work with my 1c lipo. I have 198 and have the 1c box checked and fully charged lipo. When I hook uo the batt and turn the car on i get lights 1,2 and 6,7, but when I wiggle the steering a little teh esc arms without the beeps. Then it lights like it is working when I pull the throttle, but the motor is not running. I tried it with a 2c lipo and it works fine. Anybody have any ideas what's up with this?
Posted this in the regular RS thread but got no real answer, thought I'd try here.
If you dont have a booster or receiver pack attached that is what will happen, will not work without one of those.
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Old 07-31-2009, 09:19 AM   #172
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Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
If you dont have a booster or receiver pack attached that is what will happen, will not work without one of those.
It worked in my touring car and it does not have a booster or receiver pack.
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Old 07-31-2009, 09:27 AM   #173
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It worked in my touring car and it does not have a booster or receiver pack.
Thats because you were using the 2s lipo. Checking the 1s box does'nt take away the need for the booster or rec pack
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Old 07-31-2009, 09:42 AM   #174
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Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Thats because you were using the 2s lipo. Checking the 1s box does'nt take away the need for the booster or rec pack
Sorry I wasn't clear, I hooked up the 1c lipo in my touring car and it worked. I did have to turn the cutoff off, but it worked. It will not run the motor in my WGT car at all and there is a much smaller load in that car. (no fans, transponder)
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Old 07-31-2009, 10:34 AM   #175
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If you see 1,2 and 6,7 that could be another issue. If the motor connection is poor or the motor itself is bad that could be the problem. Hook up the pan car to another motor and see what happens.

The thing that does get me though is that using the steering servo appears to change something.

The fact that it worked in the other car though leads me to believe there is bad connection on the motor side.
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Old 07-31-2009, 10:43 AM   #176
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I did try hooking it up to my novak 10.5 and it did the same thing. The motor that is in the car is a Speed Passion 13.5.
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Old 07-31-2009, 11:50 AM   #177
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OK,

So when you hook this up to 2s it works?

Can you post your hotwire setup(screenshot)?
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Old 07-31-2009, 01:34 PM   #178
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Randy yes, I leave all the setting as I had them set for the 1c lipo and hook up a 2c lipo and it works like normal. I will try and get you screen shot when I get home.
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Old 08-03-2009, 07:56 AM   #179
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Sorry for the late reply, was out of town. I'm having trouble trying to get a screenshot posted. As soon as I get that figured out I will get it up here.
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Old 08-05-2009, 09:05 PM   #180
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Did anyone run with 10.5 motor?
I want to run the RS with 10.5 motor.
Do I need the RS Pro for 10.5 motor?
I need help for the Roll Out.
The track straight away is 120.
Tire is 46mm.
Any help is appreciated.
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