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Old 02-10-2009, 10:14 PM   #1
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Default Bolink 200mm World GT

Remember the old Bolink Eliminator 10 from WAY back in the day?

With the resurgence and development of 200mm pan cars and the current World GT rules specifiying 4-cell battery packs, i thought i'd try to design some new parts to convert the 235mm Eliminator 10 to a 200mm car capable of using 4-cell battery packs.

Why? They are still being bought and sold on ebay. Does it seem kinda pointless considering the current quality of 200mm cars? Eh, maybe. It was a good exercise in drawing up parts and sending the files to my brother so he could cut them on his CNC machine.

The part i'm most excited about is the redesigned radio tray. I designed it to hold the 4-cell battery back. I also designed it so that a person can modify it to accept the AE pivot ball pieces from the old RC10L series of cars.

The t-plate was narrowed so the rear wheelbase is 200mm. The fore and aft shock mounts have several holes for various shock mounting options. Let's face it, the old shocks are, uh, old. I've seen several ingenious replacements that can utilize the various holes.

The front axle plate narrows the wheelbase to 190mm. That requires some cutting and drilling to the old chassis, but nothing too extreme.

All in all, i'm pleased. Once i dye the parts black, i'll be VERY pleased.















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Old 02-10-2009, 11:16 PM   #2
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Very cool project man...surprised you didn't use saddle 4 cell though and just use the default slots...that would keep your CG lower.
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Old 02-11-2009, 05:52 AM   #3
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True... plus with the 3 slots on each side i can place the weight where i want. My thought process was, "How often do you see 4-cell saddle packs these days?" While not overly difficult to make, i HATED soldering them up and transporting them.

Thanks for the comments! It was a fun project at the least and most definitely educational. I made 6 sets of parts. Once i get them dyed i hope to list them either here or ebay. Not sure what kind of market is out there but for some reason old Bolinks are always popping up on ebay.
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Old 02-11-2009, 06:07 AM   #4
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good work, givin an old steed a new lease on life. kudos to u
sir.

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Old 02-11-2009, 04:45 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pejota View Post
My thought process was, "How often do you see 4-cell saddle packs these days?"
Um, all T-plate 1/12th cars.

It looks weird to see 4600's in it. Needs to be old yellow or red Sanyo's

Take it another step, cut a chassis for a strut front end on it.
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Old 02-11-2009, 05:30 PM   #6
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I bought on of those in '94, to run carpet oval, I still have it.
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Old 02-11-2009, 07:34 PM   #7
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Take it another step, cut a chassis for a strut front end on it.
Meh. At that point i might as well buy an established World GT car. My goal was to give all the people with old school Bolinks an opportunity to run World GT.

One question though, are the 4-cell packs for 1/12th wide enough to fit the old school Bolink? I dunno, never raced 1/12th.

Now, i have tossed around the idea of cutting an oval chassis. Something that can be 4-cell and Lipo friendly. That's gonna take a back burner though for my t-plate Legends project though. Nice to have a brother with a CNC machine!
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Old 02-13-2009, 03:50 PM   #8
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Just dyed the parts and they turned out pretty good. Would rather start with black fiberglass, but this worked out.

Here's the formula i used:
1- 8 ounce bottle of RIT dye
7 cups of water
1/2 cup of salt- not sure what salt does, girlfriend said that's what she does when she dyes clothing.
Let simmer for about 1 hour.

Now the problem with dying so many flat parts (i made 5 kits) is that they lay on top of each other and can impede the flow of dye. I need to come up with a way to stand them on edge to be dyed properly. The nylon test pieces from an RC10 came out awesome.

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Old 02-13-2009, 04:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pejota View Post
Just dyed the parts and they turned out pretty good. Would rather start with black fiberglass, but this worked out.

Here's the formula i used:
1- 8 ounce bottle of RIT dye
7 cups of water
1/2 cup of salt- not sure what salt does, girlfriend said that's what she does when she dyes clothing.
Let simmer for about 1 hour.

Now the problem with dying so many flat parts (i made 5 kits) is that they lay on top of each other and can impede the flow of dye. I need to come up with a way to stand them on edge to be dyed properly. The nylon test pieces from an RC10 came out awesome.

The salt turns into an adhesive for Dye, I believe. Vinegar works wonders as well.
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Old 02-13-2009, 05:49 PM   #10
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Quote:
I need to come up with a way to stand them on edge to be dyed properly.
cut up a use a coat hanger then place it on two blocks of wood with the parts hanging from the wire

-=light=-
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Old 02-13-2009, 08:11 PM   #11
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Boink actually made a 200mm car. Unfortunately hardly anyone ever purchased one.I've got the two last versions.The last is the present one I'm racing in World GT.However the version your making was really an ill handling car compaired to the later versions they made (California Flyer) and the two last versions.I would move the batteries in closer to the center to help the car out. They also made a chassis with the batteries up the center of the car with a U bar( instead of a T-bar).But I could never get them to make the car narrow. Good luck with your project.A kid showed up at my local hobby shop before Xmas with one of those old eliminaters with a resistor speedcontroller.
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Old 02-13-2009, 09:09 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BullFrog View Post
Boink actually made a 200mm car. Unfortunately hardly anyone ever purchased one.I've got the two last versions.The last is the present one I'm racing in World GT.However the version your making was really an ill handling car compaired to the later versions they made (California Flyer) and the two last versions.I would move the batteries in closer to the center to help the car out. They also made a chassis with the batteries up the center of the car with a U bar( instead of a T-bar).But I could never get them to make the car narrow. Good luck with your project.A kid showed up at my local hobby shop before Xmas with one of those old eliminaters with a resistor speedcontroller.
I've seen one, maybe two California Flyers on ebay in the past year or so. I've also seen a couple of the 200mm cars. The Eliminator seems to pop up the most often. I did redesign the battery tray to be modified to accept the ball pivot found on the RC10L series of cars. If you look closely at the pics you can see a series of dimples around the holes in the midline. Drill those out and drill out the forward mounting hole and you can install the ball pivots. I think that would help handling tremendously.

If you could send me a pic of the one you're racing that'd be great.
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Old 02-13-2009, 09:20 PM   #13
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I wish I could but I've got no camera. Maybe I can get someone at the state race in kissimmee next weekend to take a picture. I've got new in the bag Bolink pivotballs/Delta. I've also got my California flyer on the wall for many years.
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Old 02-13-2009, 09:40 PM   #14
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Very Cool! That was my first RC car.
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Old 02-14-2009, 12:48 PM   #15
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Took my own advice and drilled out the battery tray to accept pivot balls.

The difference in handling is like night and day. My litmus test is the street in front of my house. If a car can maintain any semblance of traction there, it should do pretty good on a prepared track with some tire sauce.

Prior to the pivot balls it was like driving on ice, zero traction. Now that the rear end can roll side to side, traction has come up. I switched the rear shocks to some RC18T front shocks i have for another project. Sadly, i have no local track so i can only test on local parking lots and tennis courts. I might have to make a few road trips to test this thing out.

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