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HPI Cup Racer 1M

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Old 09-07-2009, 10:39 AM
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How are these things working now that they have been out a little. Owner of our local track is gone until Tuesday so don't know if they will be adding this class or not. If they do will these be in the same class as the tamiya mini? If so I've wanted one of those as well
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Old 09-09-2009, 10:40 AM
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Hey Guys,

So HPI is offering a $25 factory rebate that applies to the cup racer. Add to that $35 off and free shipping for being a tower club member.. brings the price of the cup racer down to $149! That's a darn sweet deal!

Unfortunately I saw the picture of the 911 RSR and want to hold out for that one lol.. which does not fall under the rebate program, since it comes out next month.. darn Porsches always costing me more.. even in RC
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Old 09-09-2009, 06:10 PM
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This kit is a bitch to build and has lots of weak points that I discovered.
Dont buy this kit IF you want a less hassle kit.
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Old 09-09-2009, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Airflow View Post
This kit is a bitch to build and has lots of weak points that I discovered.
Dont buy this kit IF you want a less hassle kit.
List the weak points for us
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Old 09-09-2009, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Raman View Post
List the weak points for us
These are the things that I didnt like while building this kit
for 14 hours and it's just the chassis...
I have the Levin/Drift version.

01. Fitting axle bearings were PIDA
02. Diff ring/pinion gears are heavy and the drivetrain is tight at first runs
03. Steering has lots of slop specially during full turn
04. Rear dogbones are angled to the rear, inefficient
05. Steering servo is not 100% securely positioned/mounted
06. TT01 style pillow ball steering/front suspension system, will
wears out fast and gets more sloppy
07. Side by side batt configuration needs battery tape
08. Stick type battery wires are hard to fit from the rear
09. No turnbuckles
10. Sticker masks doesnt fit exactly on the shell
11. Heavy chassis and too much drag... will make your motor to work harder
12. Weak propeller drive cups, will easily strip
13. Unconventional screw-in wheel mounting
14. Wheel/tyres are bigger than whats mostly available
15. Soft stock springs
16. Front camber adjustments need some disasembly
17. Will add more after more session runs

There were also good things...
01. Detailed and accessorized shell
02. Lots of mounting configurations
03. Cool tools with guage
04. Some spares
05. Parts quality is good
06. Will add more after more session runs
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Old 09-09-2009, 09:49 PM
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Wow, glad I didn't pull the trigger just yet. Will wait a bit to see who else has issues.
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Old 09-09-2009, 09:56 PM
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I spent over 3 years getting an M04 to handle correctly.. so I have all the patience in the world for this lil guy.. Your input though is appreciated!
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Old 09-09-2009, 10:04 PM
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On a drag race with same electronics and motor, I would bet on the M04.
On the track, the CR "should" handle better since it is 4WD. An M04 could
win with the right tyres and setup.

I wont recommend the CR kit to a newbie, theyll be frustrated Im sure.
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Old 09-09-2009, 10:08 PM
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We have some ideas locally here to even them up if run together. We'll have to wait and see once on track. Basically silver can with a final drive ratio limit and a max tire size. But after running M-chassis for years, I won't know until I can actually run one to see if what lap times look like
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Old 09-09-2009, 10:13 PM
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The M04 is hell to set up properly. It has a lot of odd tendencies. But in the right hands it can out run an M03. The trick with that car is adding some weight to the rear to keep traction on the rear wheels. It reduces its tendency to spin the tyres between 35% to 50% throttle.

The Cup Racer is better designed. Layout is similar to modern cars.. low centre of gravity etc.. I think it will out run the M chassis cars with ease. Even in a drag race.. because you can put down more power..
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Old 09-09-2009, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Raman View Post
The M04 is hell to set up properly. It has a lot of odd tendencies. But in the right hands it can out run an M03. The trick with that car is adding some weight to the rear to keep traction on the rear wheels. It reduces its tendency to spin the tyres between 35% to 50% throttle.

The Cup Racer is better designed. Layout is similar to modern cars.. low centre of gravity etc.. I think it will out run the M chassis cars with ease. Even in a drag race.. because you can put down more power..

If all stock, the CR would win. Im having a hard time shaking off a tuned
M04 using my TC4 and with the same 10.5 motor. And sometimes it would
win in a drag. You are correct about the rear weight for the M04. Now Im
setting up my CR to challenge that M04. The CR's weight and tight
drivetrain will be its drawback.
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Old 09-09-2009, 11:33 PM
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M04 with a 10.5? Wow.. I was running mine with a Novak 13.5 but brought down the EPA to 80%. On a drag race I could use it 100% but only after I hit 50% throttle.

What tyres is he running? 60D or standard touring?

CR: Try running it rear wheel. No front dog bones, or diff, no drive cups for centre shaft.. Then you wont have to deal with 50 to 60% of the tight drivetrain. Setup will be different and harder to nail down..

I really like the scale classes that are popping up and would like to see it come down to 2wd. Don't get me wrong 4wd is a blast but it turns these cars into a playstation game...
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Old 09-10-2009, 12:18 AM
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Here is my brother's tuned M04...
http://www.rctech.net/forum/6069950-post4267.html

Ive driven it and it doesnt want to spin out even from standstill or
sharp turning. It's really screaming with a 10.5. His tyre combis
are S-Grip to the rear and Radials up front. It is mainly used
for drag.
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Old 09-10-2009, 12:12 PM
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Can Tamiya TRFs dampers be used in place of the Cup Racers?
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Old 09-10-2009, 12:19 PM
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I would expect a Club Racer to perform similar to a shaft driven TC. Around here Those are way faster than a Tamiya M chassis.
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