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Old 11-12-2003, 11:10 AM   #16
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i cant help thinking why ONLY american cars seem to have glitching problem when their antenna or servo leads touch the graphite chassis. i have absolutely NO problem when i route my wire all over my graphite chassis. servo and esc leads jammed in cracks between my electronics and the chassis. my reciver wire is wrapped around the bottom of my reciever touching the graphite chassis before going up to the antenna tube...and yet, i have no problem with glitching, where i see you guys mounting the reciever on its side, drilling holes just to get the antenna off the graphite, putting extra caps..blah blah blah...whats the deal here?
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Old 11-12-2003, 11:16 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by TuxRacer
Thanks PopsRacer.

It has never been in a crash. In fact it has never been run. After building it I discoverd my glitching problem. No motor/Batt. wires are crossing the Rx antenna. I have reason to belive it is the Rx or the crystals. I hope.

Thanks,
It's amazing that I had almost the exact situation as you did. Brand new F-TC3 with P2K2, LRP Comp, DCX Receiver. First run with the car at the La Mirada Turkey Shootout Race. Car was hooked from the get go but at both far ends of the track i loose control of the car. Did almost all of the things said here. Running out of time. I dicided to pull out my DCX receiver and replace it with my reliable Xxtra Synth and boom. The car was smooth as silk. TQed and won my Final.
Maybe your receiever needs repair or replacement.
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Old 11-12-2003, 09:10 PM   #18
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Default Glitching Problem

Back in the Glitching days, I too bought a DCX thinking it would help alleviate my glitch problem. Since the DCX processes the signal 2x's, you would think it should be better. NOT!

Yes it processes the signal 2x's, but at the same (or even slower) rate as a single conversion RX. This means when it does glitch, it take twice as long for the Car to recover. I hated mine and sold it for like $10 after a month.
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Old 11-12-2003, 10:20 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by disaster999
i cant help thinking why ONLY american cars seem to have glitching problem when their antenna or servo leads touch the graphite chassis. i have absolutely NO problem when i route my wire all over my graphite chassis. servo and esc leads jammed in cracks between my electronics and the chassis. my reciver wire is wrapped around the bottom of my reciever touching the graphite chassis before going up to the antenna tube...and yet, i have no problem with glitching, where i see you guys mounting the reciever on its side, drilling holes just to get the antenna off the graphite, putting extra caps..blah blah blah...whats the deal here?
i think your asking a question in a wrong thread...
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Old 11-12-2003, 10:26 PM   #20
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first of all...im not asking anything..im making a statment!
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Old 11-12-2003, 11:02 PM   #21
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most the time when i have glitching problems i just change my crystals
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Old 11-13-2003, 12:35 AM   #22
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I highly suspect it's the crystals. I've had a similar experience myself. After going through a tedious troublshoot I finally changed the crystal and the glitching was gone for good. Try that and let us know.
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Old 11-13-2003, 01:41 AM   #23
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I'm not intending to bash, just passing along information I have observed.

That said...
This is not the first time I have run across people having severe glitching with a DCX receiver (Hitec). An earlier post mentioned switching out the Rx as his solution. Again, I have observed this as well.

One other possible area to check is your transmitter. Ensure that your module and crystal are securely inserted. If you have no module, ensure the crystal is not loose, or damaged. I may have missed which radio you are using, so correct me if I'm missing something, so the module idea may not apply.

I have had terrible problems with a JR R-1, but only with 75MHz operation. I have tried several receivers and even three different sets of the same crystal to be sure (as in three different pairs of channel 84). I think I have narrowed it down to the module being a problem, but have yet to invest another $50-80 to try another module. The worst part is that 27MHz operation is flawless, no matter the Rx used.

Last but not least, find a friend(s) that has alternative equipment. If this isn't possible, find a local hobby shop who is willing to help. Try replacing one piece of gear at a time:
1. Try another motor: if glitching resurfaces with another motor, install a Schotky diode between the + and - of the motor.
2. Try another crystal set.
3. Try another receiver, or even receiver brand.
4. Try swapping out the transmitter module.
5. Ensure your crystals are the same brand and frequency. It is unlikely that crystals would not be the same frequncy, but it isn't entirely impossible either.
6. Check the brand of each component: i.e. if you have an M8, it is most likely using as much airtronics gear as possible will be best. This isn't necessary, but with my JR experiences, sometimes non JR items are not mix and match.
7. Try another servo. A problem servo can cause glitching in some cases.
8. Try your friends receiver and transmitter with your other gear.
9. Insulate ANY exposed wiring. Also, double up the insulation on the Rx antenna wire by adding heat shrink or fuel tubing where it is not concealed by the antenna tube.

In cases where the glitching source isn't apparent it helps to take notes on changes and problems to start identifying trends... like everytime I go into turn 3, my car glitches. In this hypothetical case, if your car glitches say in a hairpin, it could also be a mechanical problem that cause a momentary high current draw, taking power away from the Rx. Not likely, but possible.

Sorry for the novella, but I can feel his pain on the glitching. Modern graphite chassis cars can cause weird glitching in some cases.

Keep chasing it down and good luck!
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Old 11-13-2003, 06:59 AM   #24
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I am going the My LHS race this sunday to see if any body is willing to help me. I think it's the crystals or even the reciver.
I will let you guys know how it turns out.

If anybody races at T&T R/C Cars in Plano Texas I will be the guy trying to fix a glitch problem.
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Old 11-13-2003, 12:26 PM   #25
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Default Glitching Problem

Guys;

Many times just changing channels (crystals) can solve intermittent glitching problems. Again when troubleshooting, make ONE change at a time and note the results.
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Old 11-13-2003, 12:38 PM   #26
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Tuxracer, before you get to T&T.....do what Pops suggest, then if that does not work. Take the bottom of your reciever off and blow out the particles and put it back. Lots of the racers are more than willing to help out. Even the owner and assistant at the LHS will try to help out the best they can.
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Old 11-13-2003, 12:42 PM   #27
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One thing I didn't note anyone saying here is that it could be the capacitors on the motor as well.

Case in point, I had taken off my endbell and removed the screw and spring post so I could file off the nipple that was preventing me from getting my brushes aligned with the comm. In the process one of the mini caps fell out of the bottom and I didn't notice it.

I started a practice run and the thing was glitching like mad. Tried changing frequencies and rerouting wires to no avail. So in my case I took a step back to exam what had changed. Only thing that had was I was using a different motor. Went back to the old one an waalaa, smooth as silk. Took the glitching motor apart after asking around and getting that it could be a bad cap, and there was the gapping hole where a cap belonged! After digging around the pit towel I found it under my lathe. Put it back in place and again smooth as silk (driving not included )

So, you might want to try another motor to see if that might cure your glitching as well. If so it just might be missing, or have a bad capacitor.


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Old 11-13-2003, 12:49 PM   #28
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Default Glitching Problem

TuxRacer;

I didn't see what kind of Motor you are running. Soldering Caps onto a Motor that already has SMC's can cause glitching. Many racers remove the SMC's under the hoods and replace them with solder on Caps. The Newer Trinity Motors are coming with Caps soldered on a circuit board.
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Old 11-13-2003, 02:37 PM   #29
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I am using a Reedy MVP. It does not have caps solderd from the factory. I had to solder the caps my self. I am pretty sure they are all good. I solderd three to the motor. One was placed against the pos(+) and neg(-) terminals. Another was placed against the pos(+) and ground. The last was placed against neg(-) and ground. If that dosn't explain it right. It is solderd the way Novak says to solder them on there website.

I wish I could just try new crystals, but I don't have another pair laying around. I just got back into racing. My Last car befor this one was my AE RC10L SS.
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