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Old 08-09-2009, 09:10 PM   #586
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Ran my SPX with a Trinity Duo 17.5 on friday night and I'm VERY happy with it.
I'm new to stock,but managed to TQ first night with it in my XRAY T2R pro.
It had so much rip out of the turns,I was able to corner very aggressively .
Top speed was similar to the other cars. My roll-out is quite low and motor temp was ridiculously low too.
This week I can bump it up one tooth and see whether the punch drops.

I'm using #8 punch. Zero motor timing. No drag brake.
I also don't use manual brakes either.
Small indoor surfaced concrete on sorex rubber.

Heat sink on esc too.

What was your FDR? I'm assuming your running rubber tire.
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Old 08-09-2009, 10:42 PM   #587
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4.43 fdr. I will be up to 4.28 by going up one tooth on the pinion.
Yes,sorex 36 rubber.
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Old 08-10-2009, 06:39 AM   #588
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Brad,

It doesn't sound like you did anything wrong. I had the exact thing happen with my first SPX. After sending it in for repair/replacement, LRP concluded it was a FET failure. They were very nice about replacing it, but it did take a while as these things are in pretty high demand right now. Failures like this are the ugly reality of electronics as they always have a certain failure rate. Sometimes components are just lemons which causes the failure. Sorry about your luck, I know it sucks, but LRP should take care of you.
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Old 08-10-2009, 06:45 AM   #589
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My first SPX died on it's maiden voyage just like the two posters above. Looks 9 weeks to get a replacement from LRP, but the replacement has been doing great.
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Old 08-10-2009, 10:31 AM   #590
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same track, same tires same duo 13.5, clean inside,
one car tamiya 415 w/smc 5200 40c
one car cyclone w/ orion 3800 30c
both running profile 8 6.0fdr middle hole on duo

tamiya 150 degrees

cyclone 200 degrees

running same lap times

any ideas why?


we took the cyclone to 5.7 and it went to 215...
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Old 08-11-2009, 09:08 AM   #591
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Default Mode 3+ 4

Hi , Could someone please explain Mode 3 - Innitial brake and Mode 4 Automatic brake on this ESC

I think Mode 4 is the amount of brake when you release throttle and the lever is at neutral - correct ? But Innitial brake ?

Thanks
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Old 08-11-2009, 09:10 AM   #592
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Mode 4 is "drag brake," the amount of brakes automatically applied when you are in neutral. Mode 3, initial brake is how strong the brakes activate when you move to the braking position on your trigger.
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Old 08-11-2009, 09:15 AM   #593
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayL View Post
same track, same tires same duo 13.5, clean inside,
one car tamiya 415 w/smc 5200 40c
one car cyclone w/ orion 3800 30c
both running profile 8 6.0fdr middle hole on duo

tamiya 150 degrees

cyclone 200 degrees

running same lap times

any ideas why?


we took the cyclone to 5.7 and it went to 215...
same driver?
exact same bodyshell?
same bearings/internal resistance ?
same front and rear toe settings?
same traction compound?

anyway going from 6.0 to 5.7 loaded the motor more so temp went up
try going higher in fdr
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Old 08-11-2009, 09:35 AM   #594
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Mode 4 is "drag brake," the amount of brakes automatically applied when you are in neutral. Mode 3, initial brake is how strong the brakes activate when you move to the braking position on your trigger.
Thanks
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Old 08-12-2009, 08:20 AM   #595
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One more thing. When connecting the ESC to a brushed motor , how important is it to connect the right ESC wires to the + and - of motor. My motor has no indicators for + /- just a yellow and blue wire (no sheet with it).

I would think it can be connected either way and then reverse switched on transmitter if it spins backwards , but ..... ?
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Old 08-12-2009, 05:48 PM   #596
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Originally Posted by gimpex View Post
One more thing. When connecting the ESC to a brushed motor , how important is it to connect the right ESC wires to the + and - of motor. My motor has no indicators for + /- just a yellow and blue wire (no sheet with it).

I would think it can be connected either way and then reverse switched on transmitter if it spins backwards , but ..... ?
Yellow should be + and blue is -. It is important for the wires to be attached correctly.
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Old 08-23-2009, 09:06 AM   #597
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I want to replace my Sphere Competition 2007, what would be best for 7,5T and 8,5T 2wd buggy racing (Li-Po): SPX Stock Spec or SXX?

Last edited by potloodslijper; 08-23-2009 at 10:12 AM.
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Old 08-23-2009, 11:34 AM   #598
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SXX would be perfect for those winds of motors you got.
SPX is basically for the spec racing series, 10.5 or higher.
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Old 08-23-2009, 12:09 PM   #599
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pot, I'm in a similar position. I have a SPX and am wondering how much motor it can handle. Lately I've been running a 10.5t on it, and with the heatsink it is showing 110degF (indoor, touring car, rubber tires, carpet). The box says 3.5t and higher, and I am considering trying a faster motor.
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Old 08-23-2009, 01:22 PM   #600
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pot, I'm in a similar position. I have a SPX and am wondering how much motor it can handle. Lately I've been running a 10.5t on it, and with the heatsink it is showing 110degF (indoor, touring car, rubber tires, carpet). The box says 3.5t and higher, and I am considering trying a faster motor.
4.0t
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