HPI RS4 PRO brushless upgrade
#121
LED lights
I added lights to my GTR body. A buddy ordered a few sets from AsiaTees and gave me a pair to try. I think they came out pretty good. The led clips that they come with make installation a snap. For 10.00 you get 6 super bright leds, 6 led holders and 2 different power adapters. One of the adapters is a jst to female servo, I think that was supposed to be a male plug. Not sure what the female would be used for. I ended up cutting off the plug from the harness and soldering on a male servo plug for a direct connection to the rx.
wiring layout. everything taped up and out of the way. harness taped forward to keep wires away from the belts and spur. the color of the wire is the color of the light.
cut off the stock plug and used a servo plug to go straight into the rx. just long enough to manipulate but not long enough to get caught in anything.
pushed up against the body to clear the wheels.
there are supposed to be black stickers inside the housing on the bucket. I forgot to put them on...
...don't think it matters much.
rear, duh.
rear, on. duh.
I don't know how to take pictures.
wiring layout. everything taped up and out of the way. harness taped forward to keep wires away from the belts and spur. the color of the wire is the color of the light.
cut off the stock plug and used a servo plug to go straight into the rx. just long enough to manipulate but not long enough to get caught in anything.
pushed up against the body to clear the wheels.
there are supposed to be black stickers inside the housing on the bucket. I forgot to put them on...
...don't think it matters much.
rear, duh.
rear, on. duh.
I don't know how to take pictures.
#122
#123
Tech Initiate
I just wanted to add that the 167 tooth belt for RS4 and RS4 Pro are discontinued, but the hotbodies 167 tooth rear belt for the TC-FD is the same.
#124
#125
I currently have a TCX and love the feeling of the ball diff in that car. I assume this is due to the ceramic diff balls in the TCX. My question is, for those that upgraded or rebuilt their diffs for their RS4 Pro, can you tell me where or what part#s did you buy to get the ceramic diff balls assuming you used those? I don't want to buy the "stock" OEM parts since I think they suck. Thanks in advance!
Last edited by M3Armand; 03-06-2012 at 07:57 PM.
#126
Hot Bodies 61778
#127
I currently have a TCX and love the feeling of the ball diff in that car. I assume this is due to the ceramic diff balls in the TCX. My question is, for those that upgraded or rebuilt their diffs for their RS4 Pro, can you tell me where or what part#s did you buy to get the ceramic diff balls assuming you used those? I don't want to buy the "stock" OEM parts since I think they suck. Thanks in advance!
#128
Tech Initiate
Also the rear belt you can use the nitro side belt and it's 5mm urethane, so it's also stronger.
HPI A730
*on some of the diff pulleys you'll need to get creative because the newer 32t pulleys are narrower (exactly 5mm) so what I do is run the car and hold fine sandpaper to the side of the belt at high speed, get it down to 4.5mm and you are good.
BTW - 32t diff pulley for the sprint 2 works fine.
HPI A730
*on some of the diff pulleys you'll need to get creative because the newer 32t pulleys are narrower (exactly 5mm) so what I do is run the car and hold fine sandpaper to the side of the belt at high speed, get it down to 4.5mm and you are good.
BTW - 32t diff pulley for the sprint 2 works fine.
#129
Tech Initiate
Wanted to add more parts that interchange -
(believe it or not)
Traxxas 4-tec!
- Front bumper TRA4335 (only issue is body mount holes are slightly different, it'll work though, you can run as-is or re-drill)
- Front lower arm mount (3deg.) TRA4330 fits and adds 3deg. caster!
***You do need to clearance both parts to clear the diff pulley but that's easy and you need to clearance the front bullhead so the OEM arm brace fits, again very simple - 2 seconds with a file.
(believe it or not)
Traxxas 4-tec!
- Front bumper TRA4335 (only issue is body mount holes are slightly different, it'll work though, you can run as-is or re-drill)
- Front lower arm mount (3deg.) TRA4330 fits and adds 3deg. caster!
***You do need to clearance both parts to clear the diff pulley but that's easy and you need to clearance the front bullhead so the OEM arm brace fits, again very simple - 2 seconds with a file.
Last edited by angus; 03-20-2012 at 02:29 AM.
#130
Wanted to add more parts that interchange -
(believe it or not)
Traxxas 4-tec!
- Front bumper TRA4335 (only issue is body mount holes are slightly different, it'll work tough, you can run as-is or re-drill)
- Front lower arm mount (3deg.) TRA4330 Perfect fit and adds 3deg. caster!
(believe it or not)
Traxxas 4-tec!
- Front bumper TRA4335 (only issue is body mount holes are slightly different, it'll work tough, you can run as-is or re-drill)
- Front lower arm mount (3deg.) TRA4330 Perfect fit and adds 3deg. caster!
I would have never thought...
#131
Tech Initiate
#132
IH8VTEC, thanks for sharing this informative thread with us! I started off in the hobby with a RS4, started out as a rally with woven graphite chassis and top deck, and mip aluminum cvd's for a nitro 200mm car (RS4 2 I think). It was running a 19t Trinity Chameleon motor and Novak Duster 2 ESC with the brake light kit. Awesome car back in the day. I held on to it for 10 years now and it has seen quite a few upgrades. Will post up some pics soon. I've also had three other RS4 electrics but only kept one of them, regret getting rid of them.
#133
Tech Rookie
Thought this might help people who might need a chassis for any of the HPI cars and any other cars you have........!!!
fibre-lyte which is a uk based company
Ive got myself an RS4 Rally which ive had for years now but last time i had it out of the box i was stripping it all down for a clean and rebuild and replace any parts if needed.
Since i started racing my B4, B44 and X6 last year ive been wanting to get my RS4 Rally built up again to take to my club every now and again to mess about a bit, but since all my batteries are Lipo saddle packs i dont think i could use them without the wires getting in the way of the belt so wondered if i could basically swap my Rally bottom chassis plate for a Pro bottom chassis..........!!!
Anybody tried it ???
Apart from that what are the weak parts that normally break ???
Cheers
fibre-lyte which is a uk based company
Ive got myself an RS4 Rally which ive had for years now but last time i had it out of the box i was stripping it all down for a clean and rebuild and replace any parts if needed.
Since i started racing my B4, B44 and X6 last year ive been wanting to get my RS4 Rally built up again to take to my club every now and again to mess about a bit, but since all my batteries are Lipo saddle packs i dont think i could use them without the wires getting in the way of the belt so wondered if i could basically swap my Rally bottom chassis plate for a Pro bottom chassis..........!!!
Anybody tried it ???
Apart from that what are the weak parts that normally break ???
Cheers
#134
The Rally shares much with the Pro. The cutouts are a little different so I'm not sure you will be able to use the chassis protector with the stock mounting. you may need to double stick tape it on. I've been using parts for a pro to hop up my rally. The main difference I've found is the rear a arms use ball links on the rally and a mini arm on the pro. Other than that the rally calls for you to cut away some of the front c hub for more suspension travel and is 200mm where the pro is 190mm.
#135
http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/hpi/fl_rs4pro.html