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Old 03-08-2011, 08:09 AM   #46
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Default Rs4 Pro ?s

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Just to add a data point, I upgraded my RS4 Pro to brushless. If you are wondering if "it can take it". Of course. I just ran a Tekin 4.5 Brushless in it with the 2 speed transmission... It's the fastest RC car I have ever driven. I haven't had the chance to duct tape a GPS on to it yet - especially since there's snow on the ground.

My wife got me the TCX for Christmas, but I will still race the RS4 Pro as backup. It is significantly more sturdier than the TCX - read my rant in the TCX forum if you are interested.
where did you get the 2 speed trans for the Rs4 Pro. do you think it is a good car for racing
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Old 03-08-2011, 08:55 AM   #47
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where did you get the 2 speed trans for the Rs4 Pro. do you think it is a good car for racing
I bought that many years ago. It's a standard RS4 part A297. I don't see the competitive advantage of it unless you actually spend countless hours prepping and running with it. I.e. - you will need to play around with the "shift points" for you to exactly know when you want it to shift. With the BL speed controls today, you can simply setup a "boost" function which would ultimately do the same thing. I only use it for bashing around and doing speed runs. Also, the car won't go into reverse with it.
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Old 03-08-2011, 11:50 AM   #48
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I bought that many years ago. It's a standard RS4 part A297. I don't see the competitive advantage of it unless you actually spend countless hours prepping and running with it. I.e. - you will need to play around with the "shift points" for you to exactly know when you want it to shift. With the BL speed controls today, you can simply setup a "boost" function which would ultimately do the same thing. I only use it for bashing around and doing speed runs. Also, the car won't go into reverse with it.
what kv brushless system should I run in it?
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Old 03-08-2011, 02:19 PM   #49
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what kv brushless system should I run in it?
It all depends on the track that you are running on. If you are only bashing around then get a 17.5 turn. I use Tekin.
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Old 03-08-2011, 07:01 PM   #50
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hex heads kit came. noticed there are no self tapping screws. looks like some screws are not getting replaced.
I replaced all of the self tapping screws with standard machine screws and it worked just fine. If you look at them, most all of the screws going into plastic are the self tapping type, but machine screws go in just fine. I did it on 2 cars with no problems, just match the length of the screw to be in good shape.
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Old 03-08-2011, 07:34 PM   #51
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^^Cool I'll give it a shot.
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Old 03-08-2011, 07:36 PM   #52
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This is what I got using A371. I guess it'll work if I can't find a stock solution when I'm ready to mount the body.
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Old 03-10-2011, 01:09 AM   #53
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Took the car out to get some speed readings. I was only able to clock 27 mph at partial throttle. Full throttle is insane and almost uncontrollable. Anything more than a few seconds of WOT and the car is so far away. 50% braking power makes the car spin out and sometimes flip and slide down the street on it's roof. Need to find a bigger open space and a braver radar operator.

Took the shocks off for cleaning and the A arm travel is notchy and some of the arms stay up or down, that can't be good for handling. I think there is plastic molding from the parts tree left on some pieces causing interference. Stripped the car and starting the bolt by bolt teardown. Thinking I also need to run belted tires as the radials balloon quite a bit under power. Looking forward to getting the car running in top performance, something I don't think it's ever done.
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Old 03-10-2011, 07:23 PM   #54
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This is what I got using A371. I guess it'll work if I can't find a stock solution when I'm ready to mount the body.
Are your tires going the wrong direction?
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Old 03-10-2011, 08:32 PM   #55
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Yes, my tires were on backwards, thanks for noticing

I switched from the crappy stockers to these at the field, I set them out in the right order but must have switched them while putting them on. Oops. Didn't notice until I started tearing it down.
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Old 03-14-2011, 09:55 PM   #56
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Here is the brushless system, temp install, esc up top so I could mess with it. On the 14t and nicads it went 19mph. On the BL/lipo setup I could only clock 27mph at partial throttle. It was way too fast for my street to get a good run in. It has to be close to 40mph. Right now it is just about completely dissembled. I'm going through the bearings and diffs making sure it is all still in working order and giving it a good cleaning. Rebuilt the shocks too, well just cleaned them and put fresh oil in, AE 50wt.








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Old 03-21-2011, 12:47 AM   #57
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Default teardown

So the car is apart, and when I say apart I mean I might have lost some pieces under my workbench in the garage...

The diffs were a mess, after being in service for nearly 14 years it felt like they were filled with sand, coarse sand, lots of it. Turns out the diff lube has done it's impression of ca glue and the diff balls had to be chiseled out. Not sure if I can get the diff housing clean, any suggestions on what will dissolve dried diff grease and not the housing? I have carbide balls on the way and the diff rings look ok. When I get the diffs back together the rebuild can start.

Despite having the tires on backwards I don't think they are up to the task with the high brushless gearing. They balloon like no other so I bought some belted x pattern tires and TE37 wheels.

The bearings felt good so I decided to ruin 2 and take the dirt shields off. Stupid idea. The shields dent and bend so easily and don't go back on perfectly. I'm ordering a bearing kit from Boca Bearings just to have on hand and replace the 2.
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Old 03-21-2011, 12:56 AM   #58
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Default RCX show

Went to RCX in Pamona over the weekend. HPI had a cool drift booth and track set up. Some drivers made drifting look easy, and some made it look hard, like I think it will be. Some of the detailing on these cars was amazing, disk brakes, intercoolers, mirrors, exhausts and wheel center caps. Anyone know where I can find some of this stuff? I know HPI has a tuning kit but that's about all I can find. I would really like to find the wheel center caps.





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Old 03-26-2011, 01:57 PM   #59
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Default Starting the rebuild

Finally got my diff parts in and started the reassemble. Let me tell you, a nice set of hex drivers is worth their weight in gold. I shudder to think about using those crappy L wrenches ever again. Do yourself a huge favor and buy some decent tools, it makes working on projects much more enjoyable!
my lovely tools!


hard to see but the old diff on top has lube just caked in it. got bored of trying to chip it all out with an xacto. diff maintenance, whats that? necessary!


reused the diff rings and bearings. replaced pulley and diff balls (carbide)


new wheels and tires, hpi te37 6mm offset and x pattern belted pro compound tires. very sticky!


clean shocks. filled with 50wt, looking for new springs for tuning options.


this was the layout and cleaning before reassembly. purple aluminum hex nuts were overkill but look oh so cool! also sourced some black m4 lock nuts for the wheels.


just parts of mah car...


almost as big of an upgrade as going to brushless was, spektrum 2.4, found new on ebay, pulled from a rtr kit. now my driving is sure to improve...or not.


Still waiting on some parts, ball bearing kit from Boca Bearings and a new steering shaft, A181 & A182. Mine corroded and the spring was rusted. Other than that I think I am good. This project kind of snowballed from dusting off the ole r/c car and seeing if it still works to jumping right back into the hobby, debit card in hand. This is a truly foolish undertaking as I could have bought a TC (almost a TCX) and built that for what this little nostalgic trip down memory lane is costing me (ebay kindly keeps my totals for me )
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Old 03-26-2011, 08:13 PM   #60
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Just a tip for the next diff rebuild, I have been using the Associated TC3 diff rebuild kit on my Pro 2's. It comes with a hex bolt which is handy vs the flat blade screw, and thrust washers, diff rings etc. It all fits great. The diff rings VERY close to the HPI ones in diameter (which are discontinued by the way) I just rebuilt mine with ceramic diff balls, it's the smoothest I've ever felt a HPI diff.
Weather is warming up, get ready to play!
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