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Old 01-11-2011, 12:10 AM   #16
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Thanks for the info. You are correct that they are parallel and not saddle bag battery packs.

That's great to know that the switch from NiMH to Lipo is pretty seemless.

Love to see the pictures if you get a chance to photograph them and post.
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Old 01-13-2011, 07:55 PM   #17
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Much apologies for the crummy cell phone pics





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Old 01-13-2011, 11:09 PM   #18
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What great ratio are you guys running?
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Old 01-13-2011, 11:41 PM   #19
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Quote:
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What great ratio are you guys running?
Oops...I meant gear ratio. Right now mine has 122/35.
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Old 01-14-2011, 06:22 PM   #20
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28/87 I am running 48pitch gears also since my other TC's run them I have more selection.
Have never had a temperature problem at this ratio, and it keeps up with the brushless rigs just fine.
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Old 02-28-2011, 01:38 AM   #21
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Default 2yr update/progress

So it's been a while since I've done anything with the car besides run it a few times. I did try and convert it into the RS4 Rally but that didn't work out, needed more pieces.

Some things have changed that prompted me to mess with it again. The field I fly at received a new parking lot all the way down one side so I now have about 1/4mi of parking lot to run in, divided into different sections. Brushless motors and escs are now cheap. My son now 2yrs old has taken a liking to r/c. He got one of those Ridemakerz build your own r/c car at Downtown Disney and has been bouncing it off everything inside and outside since. He spied my car body in the closet and wanted to know what that was. I told him "oh, you don't even know!". I put the car together and ran it for him in the street and he was so excited, he wanted to try so I let him steer while I worked the throttle. We went to our first r/c race today at one of the nearby clubs, Camarillo Roadrunners to watch and see what goes on. He loved it but was so disappointed because he thought he was going to get to race. He is far cry from being able to operate an r/c under any kind of planned control but he likes to help me at the bench "mess with stuff".

I have to say the racing looked pretty cool today and I think I'm going to try the novice class, not sure if my pro will be competitive (or if I will) but I wouldn't mind picking up something used that could race.

This car was built in 97 and has not been touched since. Other than some gearing changes, Porsche body and the optional belt tensioner added, no maintenance has been performed. I am planning a bolt by bolt tear down, cleaning and rebuild. I have started with the shocks and they seem to be in good shape. They all still have their oil and are just getting cleaned up and refilled with 50wt AE silicon shock oil, recommended by one of the racers that works at the lhs. The diffs are next and will be re-lubed or re-built depending on what I find. I have been piecing together parts to bring the car into this millennium. Where I'm at so far; new body, replacement drive train belts. new rubber tires, drift tires, rims, 2s lipo batteries and Castle Creations Sidewinder V2 4600kv esc/motor combo.

fitting new tires and rims, black hpi works emotion xc8 26mm 6mm offset with hpi v-groove super radial super compound. much wider than stock.







hpi recommended 6mm offset to use a 200mm body on a 190mm chassis but the wheels still look sunk in. 9mm offset looks much better.



Don't worry, I'm cutting the body posts.

my one concession to bling so far, my drift wheel set. chrome/gold hpi work xsa 02c 26mm 9mm offset and hpi advan neova ad07 t-drift 26mm tire.

the tires were a bit of a pain to get on the rim, I used boiling water in a cup to help things along. careful with painted/chrome rims, the paint is easy to mess up and once it starts flaking off it only gets worse. at least if all the paint comes off it looks like it's chrome underneath. bit of a size difference here with the rubber tires.



the 9mm offset fills the wheel well nicely. not to worry, I bought a circle cutter to do the wheel cutouts on the next body.




the new body. hpi 200mm nissan r35 gtr. going to be silver, using the light buckets, thinking of doing led lights.


turnigy 2s 4000mAh 30c. bought two to start with. I mostly fly hobby king batteries in my planes. I really like the flightmax and turnigy packs, great value.


relief cuts made in the stock nicad holders to accommodate the lipos.






the lipo pack is a few mm longer than the nicads so it fits snug in the holders. the height and width are 1-2mm smaller so it clears the belt with a little more room to spare. the smaller size, the increase from 1700 to 4000mAh, able to hold stable voltge and a weight savings of around 100 grams make the lipos a very nice upgrade.

Last edited by IH8VTEC; 02-28-2011 at 03:23 AM. Reason: pics
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Old 02-28-2011, 09:36 AM   #22
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Here's a pic of what you would have to file down in order to use brushless motors. I put a motor in just for you to see the clearance.

As you can see from the other pics, the belt "just" rubs the battery a little bit. I'm not worried.

Guys, how do you post pics so that the pics are within the "text" themselves so they show full size? On mine, you only see the thumbnails....
Attached Thumbnails
HPI RS4 PRO brushless upgrade-hpi-rs4-pro-001-medium-.jpg   HPI RS4 PRO brushless upgrade-hpi-rs4-pro-002-medium-.jpg   HPI RS4 PRO brushless upgrade-hpi-rs4-pro-007-medium-.jpg   HPI RS4 PRO brushless upgrade-hpi-rs4-pro-005-medium-.jpg   HPI RS4 PRO brushless upgrade-hpi-rs4-pro-003-medium-.jpg  

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Old 02-28-2011, 09:58 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3Armand View Post
Here's a pic of what you would have to file down in order to use brushless motors. I put a motor in just for you to see the clearance.

As you can see from the other pics, the belt "just" rubs the battery a little bit. I'm not worried.

Guys, how do you post pics so that the pics are within the "text" themselves so they show full size? On mine, you only see the thumbnails....
Thanks for the pics, I didn't realize the motor was sunk into the chassis like that. Not a fan of having to file the chassis but it doesn't seem like a huge deal.

RE pics; I hosted mine on a pic sharing site (I used picasa) and linked using the insert image button in the advanced post screen. Picasa lets me pick the size of picture I want to link, not sure if/how other sites let you change the size or not.
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Old 02-28-2011, 10:36 AM   #24
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And by the way, I get the very similar laptimes with my RS4 Pro vs my brand spankin new TCX... go figure. But the main difference is that the RS4 Pro doesn't break! The TCX arms, hubs, carriers are super fragile... I'm on the verge of replacing them with the Sprint setup as they are a direct fit. I haven't broken (knock on some serious wood) any RS4 arms, hubs or carriers in the 13+ years of driving/racing it!
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Old 02-28-2011, 09:08 PM   #25
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if you completely disassemble the car for a rebuild I would recommend replacing all the phillips screws with hex screws, makes maintenance much easier. It seems like every time I worked on the cars with phillips screws I found myself grinding into a screw with a cutoff wheel to extract it from the chassis.
I run my Pro 2 regularly and keep up with another driver of similar skill level with a tc4. And yes they are quite durable, the most I have broken is body posts and the front bumper broke more after running it slightly broken.
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:07 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bossman429 View Post
if you completely disassemble the car for a rebuild I would recommend replacing all the phillips screws with hex screws, makes maintenance much easier. It seems like every time I worked on the cars with phillips screws I found myself grinding into a screw with a cutoff wheel to extract it from the chassis.
I run my Pro 2 regularly and keep up with another driver of similar skill level with a tc4. And yes they are quite durable, the most I have broken is body posts and the front bumper broke more after running it slightly broken.
That's an idea. Any recommendations on where to find countersunk hex screws?

**EDIT** The screws look to be prevalent, you can get them everywhere.

Last edited by IH8VTEC; 02-28-2011 at 11:54 PM.
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Old 03-01-2011, 12:13 AM   #27
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if you want to switch to hex screws. you can do hex screws. they can get a little expensive but they are great screws.
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Old 03-01-2011, 08:18 PM   #28
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Yeah I just went through the instruction manual and searched for the size on Tower hobbies. I usually bought the O'Donnell screws as they were pretty inexpensive. I may have spent $15 for all of them needed.
I think this is one of the orders I made for the conversion, but you may check the manual to make sure that is all of them:
Part Desc QTY Price
ODOQ0103 O'Donnell Flat Head Screw 3x8mm (10) 1 1.79
ODOQ0108 O'Donnell Flat Head Screw 3x18mm (5) 2 3.58
ODOQ0105 O'Donnell Flat Head Screw 3x12mm (10) 2 3.58
ODOQ0203 O'Donnell Button Head Screw 3x8mm (10) 1 1.79
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Old 03-02-2011, 12:49 AM   #29
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Default Screw kits

Found this.
http://www.hexcrews.com/hpi-rs4-pro-...rsion-kit.aspx
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Old 03-02-2011, 03:25 AM   #30
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I dont know why you wanna limit yourself to 4600/5700. I would get the newer Sv2 Sidewinder and a 7700 motor or the Mamba Max(not Pro) on Castle's site for $75 and get the 9000kv. Thats capable of exceeding 50mph on 2s. I can tell you the 7700 on 2s is extremly fast. I had one in a speed T and paired with a 60A EZrun and the same battery you have there it was stupid fast. So the 9000 should be pretty darn quick
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