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Old 11-04-2003, 02:29 PM   #1
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Default matched set of batteries

Forgive me for being ignorant about electric on road, what does it mean exactly when someone refers to a matched set of batteries for their touring car?
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Old 11-04-2003, 02:36 PM   #2
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When you cycle a cell each cell has different numbers, like what was the average voltage, peak voltage, internal resistance. Matchers take similarly spec'd cells and build battery packs. If a battery is matched it will last longer if treated well and gives better performance bacause every cell in the pack is giving close to the same amount of power.
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Old 11-04-2003, 02:40 PM   #3
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Thank you for summerizing that into simplified terms.
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Old 11-04-2003, 02:59 PM   #4
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No sweat.
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Old 11-04-2003, 06:24 PM   #5
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Default 2400's

i couldn't find a topic for this, so here is my question.
i bought a 2400 from a guy a week ago, he said he kept good care of it, the battery is a 2400 matched, discharged, all that stuff. He dead shorted his too, but i can't get it to read on my charger. I put the clips on it, and it doesn't make a noise, move, anything. I put the clips on different cells, to see if there is a bad cell, but nothing. I can't get a charge(or a spark), out of anything. Is there something about dead shorting, or have i been ripped off, and should go back for my money.
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Old 11-04-2003, 06:38 PM   #6
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Default dead shorted

pro3racer;

I have seen where some chargers have problems recognizing a pack if the voltage is down too low. Dead shorting will leave a pack at or near -0- volts. You might try using/borrowing a different charger.



sook;

A battery pack is only as good as the WEAKEST cell.

So to get the best performance for racing, we buy "Matched" battery packs. In "Matched" packs all of the cells have been individually tested, then are hand picked and sold as a (matched) pack. This takes special equipment, extra time and labor, thus the reason for the higher cost.

If you are not racing, there really is no reason to buy matched batteries.
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Old 11-04-2003, 06:43 PM   #7
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After you take the short off, you need to wait a few hours for the pack to build up enough voltage so that your charger can read or recognize that there are batterries attached. You might also get a few false peaks depending on how long the 2400's have been out of service. It is possible that they could have been damaged and no matter how long you wait the pack will not come back to life.
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Old 11-04-2003, 06:54 PM   #8
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the guy said he hasn't used the packs in a while, but i do have a cheap charger. Intellipeak crap.
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Old 11-04-2003, 07:04 PM   #9
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Thanks Popsracer, I will be racing. Just new to electric on-road. Been racing for a few years in nitro.

Pops, if I may ask......should you actually get the most expensive hills thrills speed controller if your gonna race?
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Old 11-04-2003, 07:13 PM   #10
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buy the one that most ppl use there usually used because good quality performace cutomer support price etc.
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Old 11-04-2003, 07:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by pro3racer
the guy said he hasn't used the packs in a while, but i do have a cheap charger. Intellipeak crap.
One way to get it to recognize is to jump start it. Use an old practice pack, and some alligator clips, and touch the packs together pos to neg and neg to pos, VERY briefly. This will short the two packs, and bring a VERY little bit of voltage back into the dead pack, it might be enough to get your charger to recognise it.

This is relatively dangerous, and be warned, if you do it wrong, you COULD kill one or both of your packs. But it is a way to do it if youre desperate.
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Old 11-04-2003, 07:19 PM   #12
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Why not just hook the two batt's up pos to pos and neg to neg and chuck it on the charger for a few seconds? Wouldn't this work and be safer?
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Old 11-04-2003, 07:32 PM   #13
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You shouldnt even need to start the charger . If the cells are gonna take juice , if you do pos to pos and neg to neg for a short period of time the packs should try to equalize to eachother. But for a pack that you can now buy for around $19.00 retail . Is it worth the time to try ?
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Old 11-04-2003, 07:33 PM   #14
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i have a 1500 from way, way back, i'll use that to jump start it, it works, good, if my 1500 blows, who cares, it doesn't work good with my xxx-s, and if my 2400 blows, well, it didn't work in the first place. I'll post in a minute after i try it, get ready for this one.
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Old 11-04-2003, 07:39 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by sook
Thanks Popsracer, I will be racing. Just new to electric on-road. Been racing for a few years in nitro.

Pops, if I may ask......should you actually get the most expensive hills thrills speed controller if your gonna race?
When I started racing several years ago I bought a Tekin G-9 ESC which was supposed to be top of the line at the time. It has worked reliably all this time.

Recently I purchased a LRP V7.1 on a whim to replace the Tekin and I immediately noticed an overall improvement in the Cars performance.

Scan the Threads in the Electric forums here and read up on the different brands and models available. Make your decision based on your budget, needs and liking.

"Pay a little now and cry ALOT later. Pay more now and cry once."
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