jiml

iTrader: (3)

People want realistic bodies, just not in 12th scale.

Well, some people want realistic bodies but molded after current LeMans Prototype bodies. The problem there is it's impossible to model a modern car from a single sheet of lexan, and still have it handle.

Vintage Trans Am combined with Touring Cars is fine, but not in 12th scale. And the question I have to ask when you want 2 forms of VTA is Why?

gto0209

Great Find, hope those bolinks are out soon! So whos goin to start hounding trinity about the old andy's molds???

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Holy Cow! did you check the 1/10 200mm body selection on the Italian site?

Ferrari, Lambo, Panoz, Alfa. Stunning detail too.

If 1/12 stays doorstop body, that's fine. It really is a challenging class to run from what I see. I'm already in over my head!

trailranger

Thanks for all those that found and still make some GT bodies! As you can see, I'm not interested in handleing or downforce. I am wanting the looks of a real car. I don't expect to be driving a 3.7V with a silver can or 17.5 car very fast anyways. I was looking for something to take a beating from some beginners and looked a little better than a GTB clone body.

I am not a VTA fan becuase of the spec rules for tires, but I do like the appeal of cost effective close racing. Adding a cost effective 1:12 racing class with realistic bodies may be a hot ticket. Being cost effective does not require Spec tire rules, just a simple rule to keep the tires tall and meaty and limited to one compoud for front and rear. Maybe imposing a 1 Lipo rule would be good too since there would be no need for multiple packs.

Anyways, back on topic thanks for finding some GT bodies!

OvalDude99

iTrader: (3)

Why? To do something different. Believe it or not, there are some of us who don't want to run mod 12th scale.
Somebody please explain to me why, when reading all the threads on this and other forums, all that is discussed is how to make the cars faster? Personally, I say slow things down a bit and make the RACING better.
12th scale GT sounds like a great idea to me.

bakaguyjean

iTrader: (1)

I agree with you about the cars not needing to be so fast. Personally I run silver can 540s. Mostly F103 and F103GT chassis cars and a few 1/12th cars.
We are currently running the F103GT with Super Gt bodies only. I am in Japan so Japanese cars are whats popular. But the cars are more scale than even the WGT cars.
I fastest guy i run with is faster than be because he can drive.
All of these videos here are of Silver Can 540s

http://jp.youtube.com/profile?user=78lotus&view=videos

The 1/12th Bolink bodies from here
http://www.speedysracingparts.com/Bodies.htm
are in stock,and i order a few of the Greenwood Corvettes and Chargers.

I can finaly retire my Jerobee Greenwood Corvette body. The 30+years old body looks a little strange with all the extra body mount holes.

jiml

iTrader: (3)

Find me anyone who races 1/12 mod at the club level any more.

Look, I don't necessarily disagree with you, it's just that some of your ideas have been tried and failed. That and too many classes isn't a good thing either.

bakaguyjean

iTrader: (1)

I think one probelm you might run into is 1/12th chassis are expensive to start with. Even with big discounts shops like Stormer you are still looking at around $250 for just the chassis. You could try the Tamiya Tam Tech Gear cars as the are basically 1/12th with some really nice bodies. They are all RWD. They are really slow with the stock 500ma battery but they get alot faster with a bigger battery.
You can even mount the TTG bodies on a 1/12th chassis if you like. Just be sure to check the wheel base.The Porsche bodies would be the best option.

Just some ideas as i enjoy scale also.

bakaguyjean

iTrader: (1)

I think that at the club level you can run anything that the club wants to. The RC world is huge, If the products are out there then somebody will race it. Its easy to make simple rules for a class. If its wanted it can be run,but for 1/12th GT. Most of the old GT style bodies are hiding and are hard to find. Bolink for example makes some nice 1/12th bodies but they are not even listed on the website. Almost nobody knows they are even available. The Andys molds are laying around some where, Vans invent has some also,website dosent work. The really old Bolink 1/12th body molds are hiding in a garage somewhere.
All of these bodies are classics that everybody knows even if you havent ran 1/12th before.
The single easiest way to get some scale in 1/12th is to paint the bodies like real cars and not flea market air brush art. The current bodies can look good just by painting them with a little taste.
I love scale and really think it needs to be part of the regulations in all classes.

Geoff Smith

iTrader: (2)

BullFrog

iTrader: (4)

If your interested I've got the following( oh yes I do not have a camera). These bodies are new and in the orginal bags- Datsun/ Nissan 280Z By Bolink,Andy's 300 Nissan ZX, Bolink Nissan 300ZX. GTP- 1/12th Porsche by Bolink with the same in 1/10th (wide). They have been hanging in the garage for all these years.I've been going though the garage these last few weeks.
I went to that Italian site- The Schee was the body we I first started racing. I actually saw the real car at Road Atlanta in the pits. I also have a Sorbello made my Parma on the wall that I Painted for best paint way back when.

Trips

iTrader: (16)

That's actually false economy. I cut my 1/12 tires down to 1.75 rear and 1.65 front and i can get three full race days to a set. Guys I know who leave them "tall and meaty" to try for longer life usually chunk their tires in one or two runs.

trailranger

By tall and meaty, I should have clarified that would be the race ready cut tires provided by most companies. Not to be taken as the old days of 1/2" of foam on the rim.

I won't argue on massively tall tires as sidewall compromise/flex does lead to chunks. Thre are still some that will cut a new tire down to less than 1mm of foam on the rim just to reduce rotating mass.

trailranger

I understand that this is a hobby, but toys need to be played with at home and the race chassis be brought to track. The cost for 1:12 can be as cheap or as expensive as a person would want to make it. A good used 1:12 can be bought for about $50 to $125. A like new car will cost more. If inferior equipment is used for the chassis, then the entry level cars will become a money pit for needing option parts to keep from breaking or have the adjustments needed for racing. I bought a RC18T serveal years ago, and that was an eye opener for me for all the parts I needed just to make it work: SwingShafts, Steering links, Tie-rods, better servo, stonger ESC, odd sized pinions, pricey foam tires, DSM modual to use with my Radio, chassis upgrade kit, ect. ect.

bigmac567

1/12 scale has been running with the same rules and classes for a long time. Stock, Super Stock, and Mod it is one of the oldest and most popular classes still to this day. There is no need to change anything about them. Stop trying to make the cars easier to drive, and maybe try learning to drive better. There is a very easy way to to make the cars slower, Let of the throttle. Every track will have an entry level class at their track and you should suggest that at your local track. also if your looking for realistic looking cars TCS Mini Cooper Class is very realistic looking and the rules make it even better. only run front drive bodies on front drive chassis and. 1/12 scale cars are made to handle very well at high speeds and that is how they should be driven, not with dump truck bodies on them. Just my 2 cents.