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Old 01-25-2009, 12:52 AM   #1
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Default How you guys setup anti-dive/squat??

I recently run Cyclone on the track (carpet and rubber tire) and feel like the front end was so soft that the rear end lifted up during hard brake before turning in and caused the car spinning in the turns. I tried the hardest spring that included in the box but the front still felt quite soft, and I also had quite long droop on the back, which I thought might cure the instability but I failed. I have another TA05R which has relatively harder spring at the front and it runs great on the track. Before I use other harder springs, I would like to know how to setup anti-dive/squat for my Cyclone, which I think may help a bit. I have some suspension pivot plates in the box but don't know if that is the guy for setting up anti features.
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Old 01-25-2009, 01:00 AM   #2
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Best place to start would be to reduce the droop in the rear, then harder front springs. If the front arms are level, you should be fine -- don't know that I'd go with anti-dive.
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Old 01-25-2009, 01:00 PM   #3
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the only car I know which can directly adjust anti features is Xray T2 008. Any body knows how to have anti-dive/squat in your Cyclone or other TCs?
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Old 01-25-2009, 01:16 PM   #4
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the only car I know which can directly adjust anti features is Xray T2 008. Any body knows how to have anti-dive/squat in your Cyclone or other TCs?
You would add shims underneath the hinge pin mounts...

I don't know about the cyclone or any other TC besides the losi type R though, because the type R has ball ends on the hing pin, therefore the pin can be angled effectively without any stress on the pin or the pin mount.
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Old 01-25-2009, 06:05 PM   #5
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The Cyclone inboard hingepins slide into pivots and then into the mounting blocks, so you can adjust anti-squat/dive and it won't bind like a pivotless system would.
To add anti-dive to the front of the car, shim the rear block higher than the front. To add anti-squat in the rear of the car, shim the front block higher than the rear.

But I wouldn't recommend either as the first resort to curing a handling problem, but instead as a minor adjustment to an already descently running car.
Check out some of the Cyclone setups on www.hotbodiesonline.com as a starting point, if your car is way out to lunch, and start tuning from there.
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Old 01-25-2009, 11:02 PM   #6
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The Cyclone inboard hingepins slide into pivots and then into the mounting blocks, so you can adjust anti-squat/dive and it won't bind like a pivotless system would.
To add anti-dive to the front of the car, shim the rear block higher than the front. To add anti-squat in the rear of the car, shim the front block higher than the rear.

But I wouldn't recommend either as the first resort to curing a handling problem, but instead as a minor adjustment to an already descently running car.
Check out some of the Cyclone setups on www.hotbodiesonline.com as a starting point, if your car is way out to lunch, and start tuning from there.
That is what I thought to have anti feature, but the pivot plates look only fit front block (front end), the rear block is too wide to use the plates (or there is actually longer pivot plate for longer displacement?). I think alum spacers will do but worry the reliability issue
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Old 01-25-2009, 11:20 PM   #7
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That is what I thought to have anti feature, but the pivot plates look only fit front block (front end), the rear block is too wide to use the plates (or there is actually longer pivot plate for longer displacement?). I think alum spacers will do but worry the reliability issue
Everyone on the team just uses the aluminum round spacers. The suspension blocks are strong enough to withstand plenty of abuse. I use the spacers everywhere, not just the longer blocks.

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Old 01-25-2009, 11:45 PM   #8
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Everyone on the team just uses the aluminum round spacers. The suspension blocks are strong enough to withstand plenty of abuse. I use the spacers everywhere, not just the longer blocks.

-Korey
Thanks Korey. I think I will start from 0.75 spacers to have some anti dive (maybe a little anti squat on the rear if I want to use soft spring). Although you recommend some other setups instead, I will try to experiment anti feature to see if it can improve handling instead of changing to harder spring at the front.
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Old 01-27-2009, 03:02 AM   #9
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As mentionned above, if your car is way out of whack then antidive/squat will be like a bandaid on a wooden leg...

Dissassemble the car, check for anything broken or binding, axles, bearings, shock shafts, CVD's, tweak, plastic parts can sometimes be cracked and look fine but "open" themselves under stress and cause erratic behaviour and so on so forth. The stock cyclone setup is already 90% there, it should feel more than ok. This is the car with the largest sweetest spot I've ever tried, so if it feels truly "wrong" then it isn't a setup issue, most likely a maintenance one. But the cyclone is also a proper double-decked, lightweight racecar that doesn't like approximation.

Things to check before everything else:
- tires - they must be glued PERFECTLY. put 100% new tires on if needed to make sure. there is no point doing anything on the car if tires aren't at least in 99% ok shape. no cracked rims either.
- diff - especially if you run the older diff.

Good luck,
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