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Old 01-24-2009, 10:47 AM   #1
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Default IM screwed! NEED help stripped screw!

I was building my car and stripped a screw and no clue how to get it out!
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Old 01-24-2009, 10:54 AM   #2
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I was building my car and stripped a screw and no clue how to get it out!
See my response to your other post in the 1/12 scale thread.
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Old 01-24-2009, 11:58 AM   #3
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it sucks, it seems everytime i buy a used car its froma retard who lock tited the screw in place or used the incorrect wrench on it. It ends up stripping.

So i break out my dremel with cutoff wheel and cut a "flat blade slit" into the screw head. This allows me to use a flat blade screw driver to extract the screw.
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Old 01-24-2009, 02:28 PM   #4
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Default 23

Ye i got it out im going to buy a screw set tomm and i finished my car Ill post pics
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Old 01-24-2009, 04:45 PM   #5
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call tony at tony's screws. DO NOT BUY STAINLESS!!!! If u do, u will be posting again how ur 'screwed'

R
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Old 01-24-2009, 05:48 PM   #6
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Default The best thing ..

I learned this trick from another experienced racer. Use the heat of the tip of your sodering iron on the head of the srcew. With enough heat you should be able to get it right out stripped or not using the allen, it will work even when there is locktight in the equation.

Id say next time you have a another stubborn one, if it takes alot of force and it dosent break loose ( on the verge of stripping) just use the heat of the iron.. you will be happy you did. I dont know why but I aways seem to overtighten the screws especially on my 12th scales...two much grip I guess ..DOH!
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Old 01-24-2009, 05:51 PM   #7
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I usually get a cheapy Allen key, JB weld it to the screw head and then once thats set it can usually be wrenched out, also keep a butane torch handy if you need to heat it up to get rid of some loctite, especially if some idiot has used red loctite on the thing
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Old 01-24-2009, 07:20 PM   #8
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Stop over torquing your screws. Purchase allen drivers with small handles, this will help. Your not building a real car.
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Old 01-24-2009, 07:31 PM   #9
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on my old tamiya my integy wrenches didnt work too well on those screws. i stripped numbers of them. it will take some time but since you were building your car it wont take as long (this is why im saying this) unscrew the part that the stripped screw is in, from any other parts it is attached to. then when the part is free from touching any other parts on the car, simply rotate the part and the screw will come lose instantly. hope this makes sense lol.
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Old 01-24-2009, 10:00 PM   #10
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call tony at tony's screws. DO NOT BUY STAINLESS!!!! If u do, u will be posting again how ur 'screwed'

R
I use Stainless all the time and have no issues with them.
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Old 01-25-2009, 02:46 AM   #11
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Good tools... Losi's are my favorite along with the hudy's. Also, when your tips start to get old. If your tip is fairly long, you can dremel it down and get a fresh new tip.
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Old 01-25-2009, 09:55 AM   #12
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I use Stainless all the time and have no issues with them.
+1 on the stainless. If I strip a screw head, it's from not inserting the tool deep enough into the screw head. Insert joke here. This can happen with standard steel or stainless.

As far as hex drivers go. MIP all the way. I own the complete set. The owner of my LHS showed me his original Thorpe drivers from 20 yrs ago, and the tips show no signs of wear.

To remove a stripped screw, try this.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0P?vName=Tools

I've used these with great results. Just carefully follow the supplied instructions. Hope this helps.
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Old 01-25-2009, 11:03 AM   #13
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Extractors! which bit fits 1.5-3mm?
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Old 01-25-2009, 04:58 PM   #14
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Extractors! which bit fits 1.5-3mm?
I believe the smallest of the extractors in the Sears set can do a 3mm screw according to the site.
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