18LikesVeteran TAMIYA TA03 fans!
05-09-2002, 03:42 AM
#391
First post
Hi this is my first post here....
Just got hold of a used TA03F. I only started on this hobby and I spendmore time kissing the pipes than running on track whenever I ran (which is only once so far).
My car doesn't have a decent bumper to withstand the abuse it was getting from this novice and the front gear case is starting to give way. I was planning to convert this F to an R by moving the rear gear case forward then bolting on a rear TA0#R gear case. I am not sure whether this would work though. I read through the entire thread and that dual motor TA03FR post indicates its possible. My only fear is whether the existing belt would fit over the F gear case and R gear case combined. The previous owner said its an aramid reinforced belt. It doesnt need a belt tensioner and fits well.
I understand from the later posts that the F is better than the R? Please correct me if I'm wrong. I think the F configuration is really cool.
At this stage though, I would prefer a rear mounted motor so I could free up the front for a nice thick and deeper bumper.
Bear with me please
the car comes with a gear diff in front and ball diff at the rear. I plan to stick with the gear diff for a while. Am I better off if I installed it at the back or in front while in F or in R configuration? Does it have any advantage at all?
I also have the universal joints in front and dogbones at the rear. Will it be better to have the universals where the motor is (i.e. in have it infront in F mode, or at the rear in R mode)
well that's all for now.
Thanks
Just got hold of a used TA03F. I only started on this hobby and I spendmore time kissing the pipes than running on track whenever I ran (which is only once so far).
My car doesn't have a decent bumper to withstand the abuse it was getting from this novice and the front gear case is starting to give way. I was planning to convert this F to an R by moving the rear gear case forward then bolting on a rear TA0#R gear case. I am not sure whether this would work though. I read through the entire thread and that dual motor TA03FR post indicates its possible. My only fear is whether the existing belt would fit over the F gear case and R gear case combined. The previous owner said its an aramid reinforced belt. It doesnt need a belt tensioner and fits well.
I understand from the later posts that the F is better than the R? Please correct me if I'm wrong. I think the F configuration is really cool.
At this stage though, I would prefer a rear mounted motor so I could free up the front for a nice thick and deeper bumper.
Bear with me please
the car comes with a gear diff in front and ball diff at the rear. I plan to stick with the gear diff for a while. Am I better off if I installed it at the back or in front while in F or in R configuration? Does it have any advantage at all?
I also have the universal joints in front and dogbones at the rear. Will it be better to have the universals where the motor is (i.e. in have it infront in F mode, or at the rear in R mode)
well that's all for now.
Thanks
05-09-2002, 08:18 AM
#392
Tech Adept
Rough-Are you using a tub chassis? I am think you should be able to swap the end of the car without that much difficulty, but don't quote me on this. I have the carbon fiber chassis TA03R-TRF and when I bought it (used) the other racer was using it with the motor in the front. I switched it back to the rear. The belt on the F and R are the same size. If you are converting it to the R, you will need to place a belt tensioner between the pulley and the motor. If you look at the Tamiya America site and look at the R/C parts support page and explode the view of the Nissan R390 GT1, you can see the parts that you will need. With out that tensioner your belt will be riding on your motor can. I can't really tell you witch configuration is best. I had the TA03F Pro but I did not race it, it was more for bashing. I have just started racing with the R and it seems to be very easy to drive. I have ball diffs on both ends of the car. You can find some ball diffs for like $20. I just bought one for a spare on ebay. I would use the universals in the front. It is better for on power steering, and you don't have to worry about a dog bone popping out when you are in a turn.
05-09-2002, 09:27 AM
#393
rough512
I would leave the car in the F configuration. It is probably the easiest car to drive since you have a lot of weight over the front wheels, it will have very responsive steering. Don't lose confidence about spending a lot of time against the boards. We all learned that way. Get comfortable with driving the track before you start making all kinds of changes. One of the most important things to learn in rc racing is how to control the throttle. Take it slow and easy and go wide in the turns when you have someone behind you. Your laptimes will always be faster when you are clean.
The part# for the F bumper is 53268. It should be around $15 and is a worthwhile investment. Good luck!
I would leave the car in the F configuration. It is probably the easiest car to drive since you have a lot of weight over the front wheels, it will have very responsive steering. Don't lose confidence about spending a lot of time against the boards. We all learned that way. Get comfortable with driving the track before you start making all kinds of changes. One of the most important things to learn in rc racing is how to control the throttle. Take it slow and easy and go wide in the turns when you have someone behind you. Your laptimes will always be faster when you are clean.
The part# for the F bumper is 53268. It should be around $15 and is a worthwhile investment. Good luck!
05-10-2002, 03:16 AM
#394
thanks
dayten,
just what I was afraid of (the belt riding the motor can). I don't have the belt tensioner, prevous owner must have lost it. I'll try asking my friends if they still have theirs. BTW, yes I am using the carbon fiber chassis. Looks indestructible.
Psycho,
I think I'll try the R first while practising with my steering. I already have the plastic bumper minus the urethane parts, that's what I'm planning to replace with a wider rubber. I also think the F would steer better. Maybe, when my driving is better, I will switch back to the F then I would expect a real improvement then
...
just what I was afraid of (the belt riding the motor can). I don't have the belt tensioner, prevous owner must have lost it. I'll try asking my friends if they still have theirs. BTW, yes I am using the carbon fiber chassis. Looks indestructible.
Psycho,
I think I'll try the R first while practising with my steering. I already have the plastic bumper minus the urethane parts, that's what I'm planning to replace with a wider rubber. I also think the F would steer better. Maybe, when my driving is better, I will switch back to the F then I would expect a real improvement then
...
05-10-2002, 08:14 AM
#395
Tech Adept
Rough-You may need some additional parts if you are converting from an F to an R. I'll try to get you the part numbers tonight when I get home from work. I had to buy 2 screws that was missing from my car. Because you are switching from the F to the R, you will need to remove the lower motor cover. Then the whole gear box sits on the carbon fiber chassis.
Psycho-ready to run your F201? I've been reading about it, and it looks like F1 is a fun class to run. I better get my driving down first. I'll stop by sheldons to watch you guys run the F1's. Looks like some of the F201 drivers from rcracing.com have some secert hops that they are keeping under wraps.
Psycho-ready to run your F201? I've been reading about it, and it looks like F1 is a fun class to run. I better get my driving down first. I'll stop by sheldons to watch you guys run the F1's. Looks like some of the F201 drivers from rcracing.com have some secert hops that they are keeping under wraps.
05-10-2002, 08:50 AM
#396
Dayten
Yeah, I am looking forward to racing the F201. I got mine all ready to go last night. I just wish I could get an extra set of tires, but at least everyone is in the same boat right now with that car. I think the class is going to be pretty cool. I can't wait to see what the turnout will be next week at Castle. Cam told me that some guys that he has never seen before came in and bought cars, so hopefully we'll see some new faces. All that stuff on rcracing is just us messing around! Other than normal mods that you would do to any car, we haven't done anything to them. I got Ralf's helmet painted last night and installed. My car looks pretty sweet! It will be cool to see a bunch of different teams racing 1/10 scale!
Yeah, I am looking forward to racing the F201. I got mine all ready to go last night. I just wish I could get an extra set of tires, but at least everyone is in the same boat right now with that car. I think the class is going to be pretty cool. I can't wait to see what the turnout will be next week at Castle. Cam told me that some guys that he has never seen before came in and bought cars, so hopefully we'll see some new faces. All that stuff on rcracing is just us messing around! Other than normal mods that you would do to any car, we haven't done anything to them. I got Ralf's helmet painted last night and installed. My car looks pretty sweet! It will be cool to see a bunch of different teams racing 1/10 scale!
05-15-2002, 06:34 PM
#397
Hi...
I'm having trouble converting my TA03F to the TA03R particularly with the belt that came with the second-hand car. I bought the TA03R front bumper and have already installed everything except the belt.
The aramid belt doesn't fit even with the belt idler removed. In F configuration the belt fits just right without the need for the tensioner. When swithced to the R config however, the belt won't go over the two pulleys. Even now it is riding the motor can.
It seems the belt would do fine with the shorter chassis. I am using the Carbon Fiber chassis ( I probably have the TAO3F pro version).
I am thinking of breaking out the dremel to shorten the chassis, adjusting some screw holes to fit the belt. I hope there's a simpler solution though, like a longer belt for example. What belt do I look for?
I'm having trouble converting my TA03F to the TA03R particularly with the belt that came with the second-hand car. I bought the TA03R front bumper and have already installed everything except the belt.
The aramid belt doesn't fit even with the belt idler removed. In F configuration the belt fits just right without the need for the tensioner. When swithced to the R config however, the belt won't go over the two pulleys. Even now it is riding the motor can.
It seems the belt would do fine with the shorter chassis. I am using the Carbon Fiber chassis ( I probably have the TAO3F pro version).
I am thinking of breaking out the dremel to shorten the chassis, adjusting some screw holes to fit the belt. I hope there's a simpler solution though, like a longer belt for example. What belt do I look for?
05-15-2002, 08:05 PM
#398
Tech Legend
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Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
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When you switch to the R version you need to use 15 tooth pullies instead of the F versions 16 tooth. IF you didn't switch the belt will be to tight unless you switch to the 15 tooth pulley.
05-15-2002, 08:16 PM
#399
thanks...
if I had known the conversion would require more parts than the R front gear case, I wouldn't have started it.
anyway, back to the shop for me. thanks wyd...
any more things I should be aware of? I already put together an idler assembly using 850 bearings and some rubber tubes. Can I still use the aramid belt with the 15 tooth pulleys?
if I had known the conversion would require more parts than the R front gear case, I wouldn't have started it.
anyway, back to the shop for me. thanks wyd...
any more things I should be aware of? I already put together an idler assembly using 850 bearings and some rubber tubes. Can I still use the aramid belt with the 15 tooth pulleys?
05-15-2002, 10:02 PM
#400
Tech Adept
Rough
Sorry I haven't been in here for a couple of days. How did the gear box fit on the chassis. The Part number that I was talking about is P/N: 0115241 K-Parts tree. Part K3 attaches in front of the motor gear box when you remove the lower motor cover. Then you will need P/N: 9805579 3x24mm Tapping Screw to mount that gear box to the chassis. This is according to my TA03R-TRF manual.
Wyd is right, you will need to use 15 tooth pullies on both the front and rear gear box. I use the Aramid on my car.
Sorry I haven't been in here for a couple of days. How did the gear box fit on the chassis. The Part number that I was talking about is P/N: 0115241 K-Parts tree. Part K3 attaches in front of the motor gear box when you remove the lower motor cover. Then you will need P/N: 9805579 3x24mm Tapping Screw to mount that gear box to the chassis. This is according to my TA03R-TRF manual.
Wyd is right, you will need to use 15 tooth pullies on both the front and rear gear box. I use the Aramid on my car.
05-15-2002, 10:51 PM
#401
Dayten,
the F front gear case fit just fine. There is just this gap just in front of the motor where the mini- bumper and the undermotor cover used to meet. The gear case is presently held in place by 4 screws underneath the bulkhead just like in the TA03F config.
Are the aramid belts for the TA03F pro the same length as those of the shorter chassis versions?
If so, then I think I only need the 15 tooth pulleys now.
Thanks guys.
the F front gear case fit just fine. There is just this gap just in front of the motor where the mini- bumper and the undermotor cover used to meet. The gear case is presently held in place by 4 screws underneath the bulkhead just like in the TA03F config.
Are the aramid belts for the TA03F pro the same length as those of the shorter chassis versions?
If so, then I think I only need the 15 tooth pulleys now.
Thanks guys.
05-16-2002, 05:11 AM
#402
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
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The belts for the shorter cars are different. They are actually a little shorter so you need to use the long version belt or if you have a short car the shorter belt.
05-16-2002, 07:27 AM
#403
Tech Adept
rough
The parts that I listed is used to cover that gap that you desribed where the mini bumper used to be.
There are two sizes of the aramid belt. One is for the TA03FS/RS (short) and the other one is for the TA03R/F cars. If you have the F you should be able to use the same belt with the 15 tooth pullies on the front and rear gear box.
The parts that I listed is used to cover that gap that you desribed where the mini bumper used to be.
There are two sizes of the aramid belt. One is for the TA03FS/RS (short) and the other one is for the TA03R/F cars. If you have the F you should be able to use the same belt with the 15 tooth pullies on the front and rear gear box.
05-16-2002, 09:14 AM
#404
Dayten
You're still planning on racing at Castle this Sunday, right? Everyone is buzzing about the new F201 class and it looks like a lot of people are bringing their F1 pan cars out of retirement too. Should be a lot of fun for the racers and the spectators.
You're still planning on racing at Castle this Sunday, right? Everyone is buzzing about the new F201 class and it looks like a lot of people are bringing their F1 pan cars out of retirement too. Should be a lot of fun for the racers and the spectators.
05-16-2002, 10:11 AM
#405
Tech Adept
psycho
Yeah, I am definitely coming out to race at Castle this Sunday. I was testing my car yesterday and I am looking forward to racing. Looks like the F201 drivers sparked a fire with the other F1 drivers. It should be really fun to watch.
Yeah, I am definitely coming out to race at Castle this Sunday. I was testing my car yesterday and I am looking forward to racing. Looks like the F201 drivers sparked a fire with the other F1 drivers. It should be really fun to watch.