hemi426

iTrader: (7)

Did anyone ever try fitting those "pre-shaped" battery slot inserts (as seen on Corally RDX and Cyclone) to a Tamiya Carbon Chassis (415, 416 or TA05MS)? Looks like a cool thingy to me....

cam5229

iTrader: (5)

hi guys...nice to meet u all..

im actually having TT01 drift car.....so now i would liek to upgrade to Belt Type for drfiting purpose...

and i found the TA05ms ....just a few question, Do this chassis suitable for Drifting purpose?

16skyline

Can someway tell me the part numbers I need for a front way diff for the MRE.

I have a standard one wat from a TRF415 msx will this fit into a MRE pulley of some discription the spool pulley the centre hole is to big.

What is need to make a front way?

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

For using the 36t pulleys, you need to get the MRE oneway unit part# 53947.
The outdrives from the previous unit works fine.

HiH
Ed

dendog220

hello 415 owners:

How do your car behave with 3200 lipo batteries?

I converted my 415 into a foam carpet car (using HPI pro4 front turn knukles) and 4mm thick bottom chassis plate.

The weight balance of my car is way off, especially on the front right corner, where there is barely any weight resting on it ==> the right front and left rear shocks barely rest on its spring (it's almost hanging in the air), and made my droop setting really difficult and inaccurate. The car is therefore heavily tweaked, with oversteering in a left turn and heavy understeer in a right turn.

I'm using Novak 10.5 on my car. Adding lead weight to the car doesn't really help.

Can anyone who raced your 415 with lipo batteries give me some input about this... I can't bear to watch my top-class car staying out of tune and uncompetitive...

thanks a lot, everyone!

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

First off, get your as much weight as you can onto the battery side of the car, but only enough to get the car upto the weight limit.

Then get a tweak station, and get the car correctly tweaked. Ignore the fact that the ride heights might be different l-r, that won't affect the car as much as having correct tweak, even if they are a large way out.

Then the car should be ready to race again

HiH
Ed

maxepower

iTrader: (1)

Tryhard is correct, I'm using Orion 3600's with 10.5 Novak and I double backed lead weight to the far right side of the battery. I use the string theory, i.e. run a string through the notch in the center of the shock towers across from front to rear then add weight to the battery until the chassis is level. Again put the weight directly on the battery so if you decide to go back to Nimh you don't have to keep taking weight off and on.
After that,I ran my 415 and couldn't tell the difference from lipo to nimh the balance was perfect. Now, I dont' plan on going back to nimh but for practice I still like to use my old batteries to keep them in condition.
Just my 2$

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

You managed to fit a 3600 pack in the 415? Do you have any pics? I'm curious because I want lipo but I'm not sure if I can fit 3600's. I've already grinded off much of the right bulkhead.

SirSwiftAlot

iTrader: (11)

This question is for a friend of mine:
Can anyone help with some feedback on what to do when my 415 msxx has no rear traction on exit of the corner and no nothing is bent. He has also tried several spring and droop settings I mean a whole crap load of different variations. Please help we call his car a "The TT01 delux drift edition" We must help this man before he blows up his car with a grenade and could potentially hurt himself in the act. So if you have any feedback on rear traction issues, problems, remedys, and or suggestions please let her rip.

Thanks

P.S. He has about 40 sets of tires by 5 different manufactures so its not the tires

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Can you post his current setup? Sounds like something is majorly amiss...

dendog220

There is one thing worth checking... maybe the suspension mounting shaft/ball tip is binding, causing the rear A-arms not moving freely... similar thing happened to me before.. sometimes big problems are cause just by small things...

wish you luck!~

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Oh yeah, when was the last time he rebuilt his diff.... that has a huge impact on performance. Also make sure it's set correctly, tight enough to be locked, but not binding. Thankfully the alloy tamiya diffs are a breeze to get feeling nice, whilst still tight. Have a look at this document... it's for the 416, but still applies to the 415.

http://www.thard.co.uk/TRF416-Things2know.doc

Oh, and check the droop, should be running 5/4 f/r outdoors (set on a gauge off the chassis bottom, measured off underneath the outer hinge pins).

HiH
Ed

Burlap

iTrader: (6)

Ok, I found running more droop at the rear good for killing understeer on my 415. Interesting.

Also with the ball diffs, use Yokomo plates, carbon nitrate balls and use diff covers on them (I forget who make them again) and usually for 540 Pro or Stock you don't need to touch the diff again for ages. Mod is a different matter entirely.

maxepower

iTrader: (1)

I'll post some pics tomorrow. I just read the thread and I'm working right now!
There is some milling of the bulkhead but nothing extreme!

maxepower

iTrader: (1)

Brandon, are you talking about Mickey's car. I drove his car a couple of weekends ago and it seemed fine. If anything there was a little understeering going on but not much! Did he crash hard and now it's tweeked! One thing about the 415 the tweek goes through the whole chassis, I mean literally every screw on the bottom to the top of the shock towers that connect to the bulkheads have to be loosened and then retightened. I had my chassis tweeked so bad I had to loosen every screw and let the lower chassis lay on a flat surface for a couple of days before the deck was flat again. With the 2mm thick MSXX chassis this may be the case. If the chassis stays tweeked for a long time it distorts the lower deck and it needs time to take the stress out.

Hope I was of some help!