Tamiya TRF415
Tech Elite
iTrader: (59)
RICK H, have you driven the new evo5? how does it compare to the 415msx?
could i get a signed copy of this picture? see attached.
could i get a signed copy of this picture? see attached.
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
I apologise if this has been asked before (and I am sure it has), but I am looking at replacing the whole suspension setup on my 415MSX to HB Pro4/Cyclone setup, because of durability and lower maintainence.
Those who have done the conversion, what parts did you need, in regards to c-hubs, uprights, arms, droop screws, axles and bearings? Part numbers if possible thanks.
Those who have done the conversion, what parts did you need, in regards to c-hubs, uprights, arms, droop screws, axles and bearings? Part numbers if possible thanks.
Originally Posted by thecrow2k
Getting rather silly now
TRF415
TRF415MS
TRF415MSX
TRF415MSX MRE
TRF415
TRF415MS
TRF415MSX
TRF415MSX MRE
I ALREADY GOT THE FIRST THREE ITEMS IT'S THE LAST ONE THAT I STILL DONT HAVE AND MY WALLET IS ALREADY HURTING
Originally Posted by bigb11
RICK H, have you driven the new evo5? how does it compare to the 415msx?
could i get a signed copy of this picture? see attached.
could i get a signed copy of this picture? see attached.
Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart
The motor cooling is a big improvement. As is the steering. Although trying it back to back against the old steering is impossible using the same car. Josh Numan ran the new steering at the Reedy Race and Nats while I ran the old steering at these races and we were about the same. The new steering has much less slop than the old version. The car trims better and is easier to drive.
The drivetrain rolls much more freely with the new pulleys/belts. And the center pulley/spur gear area is simplified and easier to work with. You use spacers to position the entire assembly (and maintain a consistent position during maintenance) rather than set screws to hold individual components.
I think most will notice the drivetrain. Better roll with a better ratio imporve acceleration and top speed.
The drivetrain rolls much more freely with the new pulleys/belts. And the center pulley/spur gear area is simplified and easier to work with. You use spacers to position the entire assembly (and maintain a consistent position during maintenance) rather than set screws to hold individual components.
I think most will notice the drivetrain. Better roll with a better ratio imporve acceleration and top speed.
I don't want to sound harsh as I love my MSX and Tamiya in general, but what the hell are they doing with that drivetrain ? I mean come on, David and Marc kept on breaking belts at the worlds, and marc's mechanics were changing the whole drivetrain after each run.
Besides, what's that crap about the internal ratio ? They say on the web page that it was 35/15 before and now is 35/16, when the centre pulleys have always been 16T since the first 415.
Now I've been using a 18T centre pulley I had had made along with proper size belts. The drivetrain is a lot freer than what the tamiya drivetrain is, even with the 36T pulleys, and my fixed pulley and front belt have lasted 6 MONTHS (about 100/150 runs, YES) before needing any replacement. I don't understand why Tamiya keep on using small pulleys, the belts simply can't handle that much load.
I don't know about you but I like the belt stripping power that Rick and crew provide
p.s. this place would be much more entertaining with better smilies haha
p.s. this place would be much more entertaining with better smilies haha
Don't get me wrong, I like the power, not the stripping...
I go through a rear belt when running modified in about 5 runs or less. At the worlds I replaced my rear belt just before the practice started, ran 5 runs and then replaced the belt just before the qualifiers as my rear belt was starting to skip. Then in my fifth round of qualifying my rear belt broke. This is with the back indexed at 3 and the front indexed at 2.
btw - I was running the original drivetrain with the white belts. Not that I have been keeping count, but I believe the black belts last approx 50% longer.
I guess I am too hard on the throttle or somthing, because my fellow Canadian Tamiya guy Corey Whiteman does not go through belts like I do. So it may just be the way I drive. Having said that, I too believe a larger center pully would make a big difference.
Must be that orion/peak horsepower! eh Rod!
btw - I was running the original drivetrain with the white belts. Not that I have been keeping count, but I believe the black belts last approx 50% longer.
I guess I am too hard on the throttle or somthing, because my fellow Canadian Tamiya guy Corey Whiteman does not go through belts like I do. So it may just be the way I drive. Having said that, I too believe a larger center pully would make a big difference.
Must be that orion/peak horsepower! eh Rod!
Lol Martin, I too go through belts a lot quicker than other drivers. My lead finger doesn't help either
How's your past champ coming along? Mine's still in a bag haha
btw check out these pictures from Saturday
How's your past champ coming along? Mine's still in a bag haha
btw check out these pictures from Saturday
Tech Master
Don't know about you guys...But My belts are from my old 415MS...Been 2 year...
And I run only Mod on my 415. I think important thing is belt tensioning...Thats what keeps my belt long lasting.
And I run only Mod on my 415. I think important thing is belt tensioning...Thats what keeps my belt long lasting.
Originally Posted by Ben.C
Don't know about you guys...But My belts are from my old 415MS...Been 2 year...
And I run only Mod on my 415. I think important thing is belt tensioning...Thats what keeps my belt long lasting.
And I run only Mod on my 415. I think important thing is belt tensioning...Thats what keeps my belt long lasting.
415s are the only car to which this happens and the car with the smallest centre pulleys (along with the cyclone, but the cyclone has larger diff pulleys which incidentally puts less load on the belt's teeth), so I figured out that a bigger centre pulley was the trick. Now I have an internal ratio of 2 which makes it a tad difficult to gear a mod indoors, but is fine with stock/super stock indoors and anything outdoors. I believe with the modification on the way the layshaft is positioned on the cars at the worlds, this won't be an issue anymore as you can raise the layshaft, which would allow for bigger spurs to be fitted.
Tech Regular
white springs anyone ?
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Part of the belt/pulley issue with the MSX is actually the pulley material.
As the alloy wears, the tooth edges become sharper, which effectively "cut" into the belt, wearing it out quicker.
I never had any issues with my MSX, but no doubt that is part of the problem.
When I used to run Yokomo off-road cars, their alloy pulleys wore out very quickly - and made the belt wear out very quickly too. If you replaced the pulley with a plastic one, then all the problems disappeared.
As the alloy wears, the tooth edges become sharper, which effectively "cut" into the belt, wearing it out quicker.
I never had any issues with my MSX, but no doubt that is part of the problem.
When I used to run Yokomo off-road cars, their alloy pulleys wore out very quickly - and made the belt wear out very quickly too. If you replaced the pulley with a plastic one, then all the problems disappeared.
Bender, this will happen with plastic pulleys aswell. The pulleys i'm using are aluminium too and lasted ages without cutting in the belt. Besides, you won't wear the pulley enough to cut in the belt in 5 runs, so it's only part of the problem.
Tech Master
Originally Posted by bender
Part of the belt/pulley issue with the MSX is actually the pulley material.
As the alloy wears, the tooth edges become sharper, which effectively "cut" into the belt, wearing it out quicker.
I never had any issues with my MSX, but no doubt that is part of the problem.
When I used to run Yokomo off-road cars, their alloy pulleys wore out very quickly - and made the belt wear out very quickly too. If you replaced the pulley with a plastic one, then all the problems disappeared.
As the alloy wears, the tooth edges become sharper, which effectively "cut" into the belt, wearing it out quicker.
I never had any issues with my MSX, but no doubt that is part of the problem.
When I used to run Yokomo off-road cars, their alloy pulleys wore out very quickly - and made the belt wear out very quickly too. If you replaced the pulley with a plastic one, then all the problems disappeared.
That explains why TRF drivers use the TA05 plastic centre pulleys to replace the centre alu 415 pulley.
Anyway....Can't wait for the MR version to replace my old MS.