snap_u2000

hi i was just wondering if i could get some help with my MSX setup i run on very high grip carpet with foams in stock and i just can't get the rear end to stay straight can i get any tips on how i can make it stay straight i run xray springs yellow on the back B1 and D1 and dark blue on the front with D1 C1. and 60 w oil all round

can some one please help me lots of thanks matt

JRRobiso

Check TryHard's website:

Foam Set-ups

snap_u2000

thanks i will have a look at them

WRXTC

There are after market titanium turnbuckles available. The 415MS I bought has some on it. Not sure what brand they are but I am sure someone will let you know in this thread.

Turbonium

iTrader: (27)

try here:

https://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/m...egory_Code=3MM

the Tamiya uses 3mm, just have to measure the lengths you need...

Burlap

iTrader: (6)

I have Tamiya titanium turnbuckles, and snapped ball connectors before those turnbuckles even think of bending. Highly recommended.

Leester

iTrader: (23)

ok i tried to fit the original 415 screws on the one way housing on the TA05 pulley but the screws were too short. So i decided to put some longer hex screws in but it seems the are sticking out too much does any body have any suggestions for waht length of screws to use? here are some pictures

Leester

iTrader: (23)

Here are the pictures

HotrodHopkins

iTrader: (31)

if u gotta dremel just cut 'em short.

DOMOisCOOL

Thank you WRXTC, Turbonium, and Burlap for the info. I will surely order them from my hobby shop this week.

On another note, I cannot believe how well this car drives. The stability is amazing with the stock setup.

I also forgot to mention these problems and observations I had last night while racing.

1. For the rear pulley, where the 2 belts meet, I noticed there's no "seperator" to seperate the two belts if they should ever meet. Is this a problem with some cars?

2. While racing, my rear belt "flipped" somehow. I'm pretty sure I have the proper tension, not too tight, not too loose. It still remained tight enough so it could turn the rear diff without slipping.

Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

Snap.

I have been to the carpet track only once, but from what i saw, and have heard since is that it is not that high grip.

A few obvious things i can see from your setup, you only have 1 degree rear toe, start at 2.5 go up or down half a degree depending how much grip you need.

Go softer oil, i generally start with 35wt, 3 hole front and rear, for springs i also use the Xray, i start with light blue.

The most difference will be in whatever tires you are running, outdoow i like to run 42R on the front and either 37R or 40R on the rear. I find the car does not have a lot of steering, but if you have too much try some front compound foams, this will slow things down dramatically, start out with 37F, i doubt you would need to go harder than that.

Leester

iTrader: (23)

.

Leester

iTrader: (23)

Hebiki do you have any ideas?

Leester

iTrader: (23)

ok. i actally found the right screws for the one way and i got the diff assembled. But i'm having a problem with the front one way fitting in the front gear box. When i wrap it around the belt and i try to place it in the gear boxx to line up with the notches it won't strech that far and i can't get it to strech in the gear box. the belt is keeping it from fitting in the box all the way. Any suggestions?

-lee

Difuser

iTrader: (2)

Lee make sure the teeth are lined up in the gear notches so that the belt is travelling around a smaller diameter. When you adjust the belt tension it should be in the last 2-3 adjustment notches. Make sure you are loosening the tension also not tightening it. It will just fit. My cars are ar the track so I cannot post pics.