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Old 05-05-2006, 10:10 AM   #13996
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Charles: I'm just buying parts from them, already got my MSX they are the only ones I could find with Square parts and the delrin outdrives for the spool. Presicionrc.com has the kit for under 440.. I order from them lots
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Old 05-05-2006, 06:13 PM   #13997
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Hey all, gettin my first TRF415 soon. Not sure if it's standard 415 or MS or MSX or what have you. One thing, what body size is it, 190 or 200mm? Also, is there anything i should know to fix before i start racing it? Thanks.
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Old 05-05-2006, 06:31 PM   #13998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HotrodHopkins
Hey all, gettin my first TRF415 soon. Not sure if it's standard 415 or MS or MSX or what have you. One thing, what body size is it, 190 or 200mm? Also, is there anything i should know to fix before i start racing it? Thanks.
Body size is 190mm, The car is ready to go as is. As you become more aquainted with car you may want to pick up some additional tuning option hop-ups, but not necessary yet, race and have fun. Good luck.
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Old 05-05-2006, 06:33 PM   #13999
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thanks alot!!!

-HotrodHopkins

P.S. is the pontiac G6 body any good?
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Old 05-06-2006, 07:14 AM   #14000
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does anyone know a link to a PDF manual of the TRF415?
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Old 05-06-2006, 08:10 AM   #14001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HotrodHopkins
does anyone know a link to a PDF manual of the TRF415?
Here is your link: http://tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htm

The G6 is a carpet body, from what I have heard is pretty good, but I have never run it personally. If you are running on asphalt it is pretty hard to beat the Maxda 6 body.
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Old 05-06-2006, 08:20 AM   #14002
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ok, thanks. what is the difference between a carpet body and an asphault one, won't a carpet work fine on asphault?
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Old 05-06-2006, 08:30 AM   #14003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HotrodHopkins
ok, thanks. what is the difference between a carpet body and an asphault one, won't a carpet work fine on asphault?
Carpet bodies usually have less downforce, especially in the front, so you have less steering, this is because the carpet surface and foam tire combination have so much grip, you actually want less downforce from your body. other wise the car can traction roll. The bodies that are made for asphalt racing give more downforce in general, especially in the front, because it is needed for asphalts less inherant grip.
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Old 05-06-2006, 08:33 AM   #14004
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ok, sounds reasonable, thanks alot!
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Old 05-06-2006, 08:36 AM   #14005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashmaster
Evening all,
Got a question for you on setup. Had first outdoor race yesterday, and had a few issues with the car. Was fast as anything else there (which I was quite pleased with), but I did seem to suffer with a lack of rear end grip, would have the tendacy to almost snap round on the entrance to the corner. Other times it would just loose all rear end grip for about a lap, however I think that was more to do with the intermitant rain....
my setup was:

Front:
LW suspension, mounted on 3rd hole
3rd hole on shock towers
B-C blocks
4mm hex's
60wt oil, 3 hole pistons
yellow springs
-1 deg camber
4 deg hubs
ride height 5.5mm
droop 5mm

Rear:
LW suspension, 3rd hole
3rd hole on tower
X-B blocks
1 deg hubs
middle hub hole
5mm hex
60wt, 3 hole shocks
yellow springs
-1 deg camber
droop 4mm

Other:
std MSX role centre and inner stud position
Peak DS 8x1
Mazda 6 body with std wing
3mm chassis

I was thinging that a change to X-C block (2.5 deg rear toe) would do a good move, aswell as maybe lengthening the wheel base, but don't know if thats the way to go?

Cheers
Dan Chambers
can i ask what tyres u were using.
i used a set of cs22 at stafford and back end was all over the place,tried a rp30 alot better.
also try 3deg rear toe,very good
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Old 05-06-2006, 08:55 AM   #14006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashmaster
Evening all,
Got a question for you on setup. Had first outdoor race yesterday, and had a few issues with the car. Was fast as anything else there (which I was quite pleased with), but I did seem to suffer with a lack of rear end grip, would have the tendacy to almost snap round on the entrance to the corner. Other times it would just loose all rear end grip for about a lap, however I think that was more to do with the intermitant rain....
my setup was:

Front:
LW suspension, mounted on 3rd hole
3rd hole on shock towers
B-C blocks
4mm hex's
60wt oil, 3 hole pistons
yellow springs
-1 deg camber
4 deg hubs
ride height 5.5mm
droop 5mm

Rear:
LW suspension, 3rd hole
3rd hole on tower
X-B blocks
1 deg hubs
middle hub hole
5mm hex
60wt, 3 hole shocks
yellow springs
-1 deg camber
droop 4mm

Other:
std MSX role centre and inner stud position
Peak DS 8x1
Mazda 6 body with std wing
3mm chassis

I was thinging that a change to X-C block (2.5 deg rear toe) would do a good move, aswell as maybe lengthening the wheel base, but don't know if thats the way to go?

Cheers
Dan Chambers
Are you running a front one way? Are you running a one way or locked center pulley? If you are running the one way on both the front and center pulley check your speedo brake settings. Also, try swapping out the one way pulley for a locked center pulley.
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Old 05-06-2006, 10:50 AM   #14007
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Was running direct centre drive and spool (no-oneways). Tyre wise, was running Vtec 24r's with TQ orange additive. Are the rp30's good for long, or a one run tyre, also do you really need tyre warmers with them?

Cheers
Dan Chambers
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Old 05-06-2006, 11:08 AM   #14008
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What does inboard tow out do on the front suspension as aposed to no tow.

Ex. running tha A bridge and D block up front.
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Old 05-06-2006, 11:36 AM   #14009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeGlover
What does inboard tow out do on the front suspension as aposed to no tow.

Ex. running tha A bridge and D block up front.
Running D-A up front will have more initial steering than A-A and less steering from the midle and out.

Most drivers use B-A up front now days, works really good and have a nice balance!!
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Old 05-06-2006, 04:50 PM   #14010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashmaster
Was running direct centre drive and spool (no-oneways). Tyre wise, was running Vtec 24r's with TQ orange additive. Are the rp30's good for long, or a one run tyre, also do you really need tyre warmers with them?

Cheers
Dan Chambers
I thought it was the double one way but that isn't the case. I assume the ride height is 5.5mm all around? Try droping the shock oil down to 40wt and also check the track temp. Im guessing Sorex 28s or 32s, CS-27, or RP 30s might be good for the UK this time of year.
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