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Old 03-17-2006, 02:05 PM   #13366
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Ha ha...tweak? Na this car has no tweak compared to the yokomo BD , like a see-saw . Just get some countersink washers and countersink screws and it goes away unless you hit something flat out

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Old 03-17-2006, 02:32 PM   #13367
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Originally Posted by MikeR
After you swore off the MSX as going to be the 'tweak master' before it came out you did get one after all

I don't blame you. The car is a work of art and hard to resist. I wish I could afford one.
Well I do take a lot of care on how I assemble the car, the only time I didn't use my method and did it quick I had the car tweaked by the end of the run... I only got it because I needed a new car and it would have been stupid to buy a standard 415 when the MSX had all those goodies as standard .

Performance wise, I don't think the bulkheads makes an awfull lot of difference, but I like how it's a lot quicker to change the upper link setting.

Saying that I hate that car so much on carpet that I decided not to sell my standard 415 and use it indoors from now on, the MSX will be for outdoors only, where there shouldn't be any tweak issues.
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Old 03-17-2006, 05:40 PM   #13368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRF415boy
but I like how it's a lot quicker to change the upper link setting.
Don't forget the time difference in removing the rear diff.... the standard 415 & 415 MS are not as nice to work on as the MSX.
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Old 03-17-2006, 06:01 PM   #13369
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Don't forget the time difference in removing the rear diff.... the standard 415 & 415 MS are mot as nice to work on as the MSX.
I don't really care about that my diff stays consistent for months...
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Old 03-18-2006, 10:54 AM   #13370
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hey guys, i have a 415 (original) and i'm having trouble with the steering. it seems to be pulling 1 way, then later, the other. I am almost 100% sure my car isn't tweaked. I think it might be the servo so i'm looking to buy a new one, i hope that will solve it. But before i go and buy a servo, i want to know if this has ever happened to you guys, is it a problem with the car, or is it my electronics? other question, my car has seemed to developed a fair bit of play in the steering, not enough to cause my problem, but enough to concern me. Does this just happen over time, or is something else going wrong with my car? NEXT question, how do i reduce my drivetrain drag? this is my first belt drive car and i'm not liking the drag from the belts. I race stock so this is a big issue with me. I've read about clipping off ever other tooth or notch or whatever they are called on the belt, does this work? I've heard about removing teeth from the pullies, how exactly does one do this and does it work? besides running LF belts, and running them loose, how can i reduce friction?

Back to steering, i know there is probably some better place to put this question, but... digital servos, do they make that big a difference? I was looking at buying this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGGV8&P=7 used of these boards. From what i can tell it's not digital. I am currently using a cheap digital servo(HS5625), because that one is much better, will it perform about the same, better or worse? assuming that i'm right and i havn't made a mistake in thinking it's not digital.

PS i like the car, it's faster than my old car after 2 races, but only when it works...
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Old 03-18-2006, 11:40 AM   #13371
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It might be the servo saver which is not making it run straight (happened to me), replace it with a normal servo arm. Leave the belts, over time they'll bed in and become looser. Slop in the steering is common, i think the only way to fix this problem is to replace the ball studs and turnbukle ends.

Got another question, this time about the blocks. At this point i am running kit standard blocks on my refine 2 (think they are A and 1XB, not totally sure) and they angle outwards \ / (like that), now if i was to change to D D blocks or any other blocks which were the same would that give me more corner entry steering?

Cheers, Charles
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Old 03-18-2006, 11:43 AM   #13372
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i hav my tamiya 11turns super modified motor..
what gearing can you suggest??? i have 102t spur.. wt pinion shud i use...?? i must say the track is not much technical but it is...

b4 my '04 has its own recommended gearing for 11t tamiya motor.. the recommended gearings can be found at the box of the motor.. the ration is 7.00,,,, shud i make my 415 (original) ratio 7.00 too so that it will match the recommended gearings like for the '04???
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Old 03-18-2006, 11:44 AM   #13373
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Diff question.

For those of you running a diff in your MSX, do you have any dogbone issues? Seems to me that the dogbone is barely inside the outdrives even with the 46 mm bones. I read something about using blades? What's that about?

Reason I ask is after BQing my first non-club race, which I was very happy with... I got knocked into the boards by another driver on the first lap and lost a front dogbone out of the outdrive. Car was crazy unbalanced on-power after that... go figure!

Any thoughts/suggestions?
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Old 03-18-2006, 11:58 AM   #13374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles Godwin
It might be the servo saver which is not making it run straight (happened to me), replace it with a normal servo arm. Leave the belts, over time they'll bed in and become looser. Slop in the steering is common, i think the only way to fix this problem is to replace the ball studs and turnbukle ends.

Got another question, this time about the blocks. At this point i am running kit standard blocks on my refine 2 (think they are A and 1XB, not totally sure) and they angle outwards \ / (like that), now if i was to change to D D blocks or any other blocks which were the same would that give me more corner entry steering?

Cheers, Charles
there is no servo saver, that's why i think it might be the servo... any one have answers to my other questions?
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Old 03-18-2006, 12:01 PM   #13375
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You dont have a servo saver? I thought even the original 415 came with the oversized plastic servo saver horn that attaches right to the servo. If you dont have one... no wonder your servo is shot.
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Old 03-18-2006, 01:08 PM   #13376
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Spryder7,

If your concerned about drive train efficiency, read back through this thread and you will come across the TA05 pulley discussion. Basically TA05 pulleys are bigger, they are 36t insted of the 415's 32t. And the overall gain was better efficiency and smoother/lower drag drivetrain. I think the report from the Tamiya drivers was that they came back with more runtime and it was just better all round, you may want to consider this mod.

If you give the drivetrain a chance the break in, and you have the belts pretty loose after it has broken in and you have a good set of ceramic bearings in the car, you shouldn't have and drag problems.
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Old 03-18-2006, 01:51 PM   #13377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XMSRacing
Diff question.

For those of you running a diff in your MSX, do you have any dogbone issues? Seems to me that the dogbone is barely inside the outdrives even with the 46 mm bones. I read something about using blades? What's that about?

Reason I ask is after BQing my first non-club race, which I was very happy with... I got knocked into the boards by another driver on the first lap and lost a front dogbone out of the outdrive. Car was crazy unbalanced on-power after that... go figure!

Any thoughts/suggestions?
Sound like a stripped steering knuckle had that happen on a onway the bottom screw fell out due to the knuckle being stripped and the driveshaft came out.
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Old 03-18-2006, 02:20 PM   #13378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack2
Spryder7,

If your concerned about drive train efficiency, read back through this thread and you will come across the TA05 pulley discussion. Basically TA05 pulleys are bigger, they are 36t insted of the 415's 32t. And the overall gain was better efficiency and smoother/lower drag drivetrain. I think the report from the Tamiya drivers was that they came back with more runtime and it was just better all round, you may want to consider this mod.

If you give the drivetrain a chance the break in, and you have the belts pretty loose after it has broken in and you have a good set of ceramic bearings in the car, you shouldn't have and drag problems.
No the 415's diff and one way pulleys are 35T, so IMHO you won't see much of a difference, unless your name's David Spashett or Marc Rheinard.
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Old 03-18-2006, 02:21 PM   #13379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sryder7
there is no servo saver, that's why i think it might be the servo... any one have answers to my other questions?
Maybe your servo horn's screw is loose or its notches are stripped so it can move around the head of the servo
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Old 03-18-2006, 02:52 PM   #13380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XMSRacing
Diff question.

For those of you running a diff in your MSX, do you have any dogbone issues? Seems to me that the dogbone is barely inside the outdrives even with the 46 mm bones. I read something about using blades? What's that about?

Reason I ask is after BQing my first non-club race, which I was very happy with... I got knocked into the boards by another driver on the first lap and lost a front dogbone out of the outdrive. Car was crazy unbalanced on-power after that... go figure!

Any thoughts/suggestions?
depends on the toe blocks you are using,i think... and if on LW suspension. when i run mine with lw + diff, i used the 48mm from F201. thqt was on standard D-A blocks, tho... if you use the narrower x-series, maybe get away with 46.
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