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Old 03-08-2006, 12:59 AM   #13186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buboy28
TRY STEVE AT SPEEDTECH RC HE MIGHT STILL HAVE THAT "SQUARE" NARROW BUMPER
i'm from indonesia, can i order from my country?it is nice if you can give some pic.thanks.
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Old 03-08-2006, 04:24 AM   #13187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t4m1y4niac
i'm from indonesia, can i order from my country?it is nice if you can give some pic.thanks.
t4m1y4niac,

I am sure you can just about order from any country. So the answer to your question would be - Yes
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Old 03-08-2006, 06:14 AM   #13188
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Hi Sushi Man,

I have ran a ta04-trf (i think you use to have one right?), and have had my center one-way stuck to my shaft and cannot yank it out, but that's because i hit it against a wall majorly, and one of the rollers in the center one-way popped out... (in other words, its dead)... I tried to oil it, freeze it, but it won't come out... i finally did have to hammer it... and buy a new center one way

hope its not the case with you.
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Old 03-08-2006, 08:16 AM   #13189
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oh man.
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Old 03-08-2006, 10:43 AM   #13190
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Ive got a question regarding the Jergen Diff. Ive read the posts about using the Corally RDX CVD blades on the Tamiya CVD's to protect the Jergen Diff. Has anyone tried using Xray blades? Is there much modification to use these? Thanks
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Old 03-08-2006, 12:07 PM   #13191
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Unhappy Blade modification!

To me there doesn't seem to be enough room to fit any blade, if you really wanted to use them you would have to trim it pretty thin to get it to fit!
I modified a couple of the RDX blades and got it to fit but at some point they came off. Although I could be doing something wrong??
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Old 03-08-2006, 12:10 PM   #13192
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So you dont run a blade at all? Do you run anti wear grease or something? I would have thought the alloy would wear out fast? Just dont want to stuff up such a nice diff. Currently ive been using AW grease and havent had a problem. Im about to pick up a set of corally blades of a mate to try them, but i also heard you need to shave out some of the diff to get them to fit. If people are running without blades on the Jergen Diff, maybe ill just do that thanks
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Old 03-08-2006, 12:19 PM   #13193
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Talking 415 for Sale!!!!!!!


By the way, I'm selling my 415!

This is the original 415 with the 3mm chassis, Jurgen's ball diff in the front with ceramic balls front and rear.New belts front and rear and Jurgen's spool included.
Custom made battery holder using Tamiya wheel hubs and steering posts.Standard arms front and rear with aluminum rear uprights and 6mm wheel hubs all around.Titanium rear axles. Blue aluminum transponder holder.Works good on asphalt and carpet. Ran it at Gilroy and Tamiya tracks mostly!
Asking $250.00 plus shipping OBO.
PayPal transaction only, unless your local!
Selling it because I bought the MSX.
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya TRF415-rc-image-1.jpg   Tamiya TRF415-rc-image-2.jpg   Tamiya TRF415-rc-image-3.jpg   Tamiya TRF415-rc-image-4.jpg   Tamiya TRF415-rc-image-5.jpg  

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Last edited by maxepower; 03-08-2006 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 03-08-2006, 01:16 PM   #13194
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I have used the jergen diff for a long time with great success on my 415 and now msx. I have been using the xray blades, but now that Tamiya has blades I will start to use them once they get some spares in stock.

To make the xray blades fit my diffs I had to make the slots wider. I think in later jergen diff versions the slots are made wider than the ones I have. To make the xray blades fit I bend them so that the two ends touch each other and then apply some heat from a flame to the plastic where the main bend is. After the plastic has cooled down then the blade end points are closer together and won't fall off of the tamiya universals. The other key thing that I found out is that it is best to use brand new universals that have completely round pins instead of used ones that have a flat side from the onew-way. That flat side will cut through the blade in just a couple of runs, but with a new universal they last a very long time. I am still using the same blades I ran in cleveland.

hope that helps.
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Old 03-08-2006, 01:20 PM   #13195
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Awesome thanks Martin. Was hoping the Xray blades could be used as the LHS here stock alot of Xray, and nothing for corally or Tamiya. Thanks
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Old 03-08-2006, 01:27 PM   #13196
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Another question , on the steering rack there are shims which go under the ball stud (which then connects to the steering block). If i take shims out from under that ball stud would that give me more steering or is it the oposite way around, or does it effect something else?

Cheers, Charles
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Old 03-08-2006, 02:05 PM   #13197
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my car with ta-05 drive parts:
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Old 03-08-2006, 02:16 PM   #13198
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Hey Chris, BTW we are still getting a good laugh about the Canadian border guards and Fokker.......I think Kevin still is cleaning his shorts out.

Any plans to come back stateside you gotta run at the new track.
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Old 03-08-2006, 02:28 PM   #13199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles Godwin
Another question , on the steering rack there are shims which go under the ball stud (which then connects to the steering block). If i take shims out from under that ball stud would that give me more steering or is it the oposite way around, or does it effect something else?

Cheers, Charles
Removing or adding shims there affects your bump steer... removing shims, I believe, gives you less (as the link angles downwards). Adding shimswould give you more (as the link is added upwards).

HOWEVER... it is generally best to run zero bumpsteer (ie a level link), it can make the car difficult to drive

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Old 03-08-2006, 02:57 PM   #13200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C van der Hagen
my car with ta-05 drive parts:
Looks excellent - can you quote all the part numbers that you have used - especially with the centre pulley.

Thanks.
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