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Old 01-24-2006, 03:46 PM   #12466
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles Godwin
Sorry i forgot to say i am using Xray light blue springs all round and no sway/roll bars as this is what i changed before a ran the car

Charles
That's pretty stiff for this car, especially at the rear. If you want to keep on using XRay springs I suggest switching to white front, green blue rear, no need to add a sway bar. If the rear end keeps on snapping try adding a bit of droop on the front.
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Old 01-24-2006, 06:02 PM   #12467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burlap
Dude, chill on the capitals. Yokomo make diff plates that can fit the 415 diff, a lot of bearing manufacturers make diff balls for the Tamiya, as well as other brands, diff. Don't think there are any third part diff screw or thrust bearing makers.You mean the inch or so tall posts? They are useful if you don't want chassis flex (like for carpet racing).

I was just wondering, i know the tamiya stuff works good but it costs way to much. while other companies sell there diff kits for 10 times cheaper.. and as i calculated it will cost me about 30 dollars just to get thrust bearing, diff bearing, and screws... and thats ridiculous considering u can buy a xray multi diff for like 40....i am broke to. UNless someone has there's to sell
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Old 01-24-2006, 06:04 PM   #12468
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Also i aksed the question on the side posts becuase the MS upgrade hit comes with it FOR what reason? i mean the Ms upgrade rear bulkheads and top deck dont use the side towers.. is it there so people can make there own custom top decks, rear part to fit it? tahts just weird.
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Old 01-24-2006, 06:06 PM   #12469
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basically im trying to find a cheaper way out to buy diff stuff.. I need it so i can sell my TA_04 so i can make money for IB3800's and servos..
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Old 01-24-2006, 06:08 PM   #12470
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sry if i was angry ... i mean i really have junk stuff... Old used 3300s and just like one race pack and a futaba 3003.. and it just doesnt work out =/ i still use AM to, but its not one of the bigger deals...
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Old 01-24-2006, 07:04 PM   #12471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles Godwin
Sorry i forgot to say i am using Xray light blue springs all round and no sway/roll bars as this is what i changed before a ran the car

Charles
Go to TRyHARDS website, he probably has a set-up just for your track in the U.K. He has several with different combos. I don't want to make a suggestion on changes that may not work. TRYHARD is the man in the U.K.!!!!!!!
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Old 01-24-2006, 08:01 PM   #12472
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For those who own the Refine 2 kit, what is the part # for the center post?
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Tamiya TRF415-msxwithcentrepost.jpg  
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Old 01-24-2006, 09:58 PM   #12473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sushi Man
I was just wondering, i know the tamiya stuff works good but it costs way to much. while other companies sell there diff kits for 10 times cheaper.. and as i calculated it will cost me about 30 dollars just to get thrust bearing, diff bearing, and screws... and thats ridiculous considering u can buy a xray multi diff for like 40....i am broke to. UNless someone has there's to sell
If You're finding Tamiya parts exspensive, Your buying from the wrong place.

From Champ in Japan, a pack (2 per pack) of thrust bearings is 614Yen -$5.30 USD

I'm not sure what diff bearings you are talking about, but either way you can get standard steel sheilded bearings very cheap from various online shops.

And diff screws, well I've never had to buy any but I'm sure they would be cheap from Champ R/C in Japan
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Old 01-24-2006, 10:46 PM   #12474
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack2
If You're finding Tamiya parts exspensive, Your buying from the wrong place.

From Champ in Japan, a pack (2 per pack) of thrust bearings is 614Yen -$5.30 USD

I'm not sure what diff bearings you are talking about, but either way you can get standard steel sheilded bearings very cheap from various online shops.

And diff screws, well I've never had to buy any but I'm sure they would be cheap from Champ R/C in Japan

Maybe sushi man is trying to get ceremic balls with titanium ,flourine coated trust bearings/bearings...
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Old 01-25-2006, 12:22 AM   #12475
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben.C
Maybe sushi man is trying to get ceremic balls with titanium ,flourine coated trust bearings/bearings...

....with a mirror gold finish.........signed by Rheinard.....
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Old 01-25-2006, 01:50 AM   #12476
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....with a mirror gold finish.........signed by Rheinard.....
More like Marc's name engraved on...
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Old 01-25-2006, 04:25 AM   #12477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles Godwin
Sorry i forgot to say i am using Xray light blue springs all round and no sway/roll bars as this is what i changed before a ran the car

Charles
I personally run Xray light blues on the front and whites on the rear atm, although with a diff in the car at maritime I have used blues all round (this was a very tight carpet track, on rubbers!)

I would try running a stiffer spring on the front than the rear. so try droping to Xray whites on the rear. From what you describe, this should solve that problem. However, you may loose a bit of on power high-speed steering, which you can gain back a little by adjusting the droop.

Dave spashett just posted his setup from the DMS 2-day (finished 2nd O/A in mod), I'm going to try and get it transfered onto one of my sheets soon... but for now

"I used the MSX car at the weekend, complete standard car and it was ok, with a little more !!
David"

"Hello
I used the following set-up at the weekend.
Light weight arms
50wt 3hole pistons blue springs
4deg castor 0deg kick up
2deg camber all round
Shocks in middle of the three holes front and rear
shocks in one at the rear at the top
Shocks in two at the front at the top
One way layshaft and diff
D 1-X rear bloacks
A B front blocks
Rear link raised 4mm inside 3mm outside longest link
Front inner link raised 3mm

My car was ok all weekend, i just seemed to make alot of mistakes again so i will get my radio serviced ! (always the equipment's fault, ) LOL
In the final i removed all the droop to see if this helped me with a little more corner speed. It did but then it was on two wheels in every corner ! I think i will go back to 6front and 4 rear droop for carpet wars and start there agian.
David"

HiH
Ed
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Old 01-25-2006, 06:27 AM   #12478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRRobiso
For those who own the Refine 2 kit, what is the part # for the center post?
Any replies to my question? I'm just waiting for some seller from Japan on ebay to sell the part itself because I was able to by the bottom deck for the MSX/Refine 2 kit from RC Model a week ago & an ebay seller from Japan is already selling the kit parts (alum rear bulkheads, posts etc.). I pretty much have everything needed to fully convert my MSX conv to the Refine 2 specs & just build another 415 (std version) due to the excess parts I purchased in the past.

Any replies will be appreciated so I can keep an eye out for it.
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Old 01-25-2006, 07:03 AM   #12479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRRobiso
Any replies to my question? I'm just waiting for some seller from Japan on ebay to sell the part itself because I was able to by the bottom deck for the MSX/Refine 2 kit from RC Model a week ago & an ebay seller from Japan is already selling the kit parts (alum rear bulkheads, posts etc.). I pretty much have everything needed to fully convert my MSX conv to the Refine 2 specs & just build another 415 (std version) due to the excess parts I purchased in the past.

Any replies will be appreciated so I can keep an eye out for it.
I'm not sure on the part #, but I was able to get the part from RC Champ about two weeks ago. I borrowed a mates MSX chassis to pattern up the hole... all I need to get now is a better counter sunk drill bit. ie one that doesn't blunt in 5seconds
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Old 01-25-2006, 07:14 AM   #12480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
I'm not sure on the part #, but I was able to get the part from RC Champ about two weeks ago. I borrowed a mates MSX chassis to pattern up the hole... all I need to get now is a better counter sunk drill bit. ie one that doesn't blunt in 5seconds
He he, a good advice is use a 10mm drill and re-cut the end to 90 so it can be used as a countersunk bit, and when it wears you can just re-cut it...
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