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Old 01-18-2006, 01:18 PM   #12346
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Lightbulb 1deg

the stock 415 from way back when before LW the rear hubs were 1deg then the LW came out and they offered the new LW hub carriers to go W/the LW arms they also sold the Alum Hub carriers and they come in 1deg and ZERO the way to tell is it has a 1 or a 0 on the hub carrier
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Old 01-18-2006, 01:56 PM   #12347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axle182
how could you tell? are the 0 deg different? so that means im currently running 2 deg of rear toe. will going to 1.5 make it rotate better and 'free er'? thanks for your advice
Because you're using the std suspension, there is only 1° alloy hubs for that suspension...
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Old 01-18-2006, 02:01 PM   #12348
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Ohh K. Not doubting you, just wanting more information. The car came with the alloy uprights etc, so I have no idea. Looks like a fill strip/clean and rebuild tonight Many thanks
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Old 01-18-2006, 02:12 PM   #12349
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Axle, I assume you have a 415MS? I only have a 415 and I bought it used, the previous owner had some funky setup and I was told by my LHS to stick to basics and try to run the car as per manual.

I will try that, Im also confused about the suspension block thing. I dont have Rear Aluminum uprights, just the plastic one, is it -2 toe? I tried reading the markings but cant find any
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Old 01-18-2006, 02:12 PM   #12350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRF415boy
Because you're using the std suspension, there is only 1° alloy hubs for that suspension...
There are also 0.5° alloy rear hubs for the std suspension. Made by Square.
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Old 01-18-2006, 02:18 PM   #12351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natskiboy
Axle, I assume you have a 415MS? I only have a 415 and I bought it used, the previous owner had some funky setup and I was told by my LHS to stick to basics and try to run the car as per manual.

I will try that, Im also confused about the suspension block thing. I dont have Rear Aluminum uprights, just the plastic one, is it -2 toe? I tried reading the markings but cant find any
Mine is a std as well. Check out Tryhards website, he had an excell file on it which explained the relationship with the blocks and uprights. Ive had a quick look over the manual when i got it, and its kinda close to what i was running (spacers etc). Ive dont alot of work on my TA05 and ill try to put some of that knowlegde on this car and see how it reacts.

Sorry im not sure about the plastic uprights. I do know u can get a hopup one for the TA04, which will fit too. I have a set but cant for the life of me remember what toe they are.
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Old 01-18-2006, 02:49 PM   #12352
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natskiboy
Axle, I assume you have a 415MS? I only have a 415 and I bought it used, the previous owner had some funky setup and I was told by my LHS to stick to basics and try to run the car as per manual.

I will try that, Im also confused about the suspension block thing. I dont have Rear Aluminum uprights, just the plastic one, is it -2 toe? I tried reading the markings but cant find any
Yes the plastic rear hubs as used with the std 415 kit are 2° toe in.
Yes there are some other rear hubs from TA04 which are 0° I believe.
But from what I know these are just ordinary black plastic and the 2° are the same grey graphite plastic as the arms. So you could tell the difference.
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Old 01-18-2006, 02:52 PM   #12353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V12
Yes the plastic rear hubs as used with the std 415 kit are 2° toe in.
Yes there are some other rear hubs from TA04 which are 0° I believe.
But from what I know these are just ordinary black plastic and the 2° are the same grey graphite plastic as the arms. So you could tell the difference.
Yes mine are the graphite plastic. I assume that is the only one that came with the kit?

If I set my settings as per the manual. Is that a good start? I have always thought - 2 rear and 0 front camber will be a good base.

Also how do you adjust caster on the 415?
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Old 01-18-2006, 03:23 PM   #12354
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Hi Guy,
does anyone know where can i get the front ball diff parts to build a front ball diff for my 415 MSX? thanks
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Old 01-18-2006, 03:53 PM   #12355
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Do they sell that new bladed diff assembly separate now...? Anyone have part #s for EVERYTHING you would need... including dogbones/blades...?
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Old 01-18-2006, 03:54 PM   #12356
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On the MS and MSX you have the choice for 2° or 4° hub carriers/C-hubs. For the std 415 Tamiya just makes 4° ones. Square makes different ones but I just don´t know if this is the 5.5° only or other choice too.
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Old 01-18-2006, 04:14 PM   #12357
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Hey guys a buddy of mine just purchased an MSX kit and we were wondering what the lentgh of the swing shafts are. Any help is appreciated.
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Old 01-18-2006, 04:23 PM   #12358
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The swing shafts are 46mm.
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Old 01-18-2006, 04:42 PM   #12359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V12
Yes the plastic rear hubs as used with the std 415 kit are 2° toe in.
Yes there are some other rear hubs from TA04 which are 0° I believe.
But from what I know these are just ordinary black plastic and the 2° are the same grey graphite plastic as the arms. So you could tell the difference.
The TA04 are 1°. They also exist in graphite, they're called something like TA04 graphite rear hubs. The 2° ones have a "2°" written on them.
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Old 01-18-2006, 05:33 PM   #12360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m8commando
I read a couple of post back that in order to run on carpet, the front wheel hubs need to be changed out and use HPI/Clyclone hubs. Is this a true statement?

Can someone give me a little more information on this.

Thanks in advance.
If you are running the LW suspension, then you only need the HPI front spindles if you want to run Jaco tires. If you want to run Parma's, then the stock spindles work with the silver 6mm wheel hexes and a red (1mm) axle shim.

Now if you want to run the Jaco tires (2 stage for example), then you'll need the HPI Pro4 steering knuckles/spindles. I run the HPI aluminum knuckles. Square also makes aluminum knuckles for the Pro4. Then you will need a .75mm shim to put ontop of the knuckle to take up the slack that it has with the caster block. My setup is to use the Pro4 MIP CVD axles and rebuild kit with Corrally steel dog bones. This lets the bones sit into the Yokomo diff nicely and CVD's are nice as well. If you use the standard (not LW) Tamiya axle with Tamiya dogbone... then you'll need tons and ton's of shims to take out the play from the axles and axle bearing to wheel hex. I can post a pic of my setup if you'd like.

Another option would be to use the whole Pro4 front suspension. Arms and all. They fit. This lets you use all their caster blocks... 0/2/4/6 degree's.....
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