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Old 01-18-2006, 10:06 AM   #12331
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I read a couple of post back that in order to run on carpet, the front wheel hubs need to be changed out and use HPI/Clyclone hubs. Is this a true statement?

Can someone give me a little more information on this.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-18-2006, 10:23 AM   #12332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m8commando
I read a couple of post back that in order to run on carpet, the front wheel hubs need to be changed out and use HPI/Clyclone hubs. Is this a true statement?

Can someone give me a little more information on this.

Thanks in advance.
Well only if you're using the LW suspension that comes with the MS and MSX. In that case you indeed need to use HPI front hubs, with a 0.5mm shim on top of it, and either the pro4 driveshafts or use the wheel axles from the standard 415 suspension with 0.7mm of shims between the hub and the hex. Of course you'll need 4 5x10x4 bearings.
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Old 01-18-2006, 10:27 AM   #12333
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I was told to take theswaybars out of the car, to run on carpet.
Is this true?

And my suspension block dilemma, im going to just follow the manual and set everything back to stock. Hopefully that setup is good enough.
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Old 01-18-2006, 10:47 AM   #12334
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Thumbs up Tape issues!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Silly question, but I am serious!! I hate taping in batteries because when I do clod a wall head on-I always bend all my battery bars. Nothing more embarrasing then pulling your car off with cells hanging out. DONT anyone say "dont hit anything" because I might be a faster driver than you and its stupid advice anyways!!!

So-would running a saddle type configuration with a braided bar in the middle help, or do you just run two peices of tape? I dont know-how do you keep your cells in your cars without a battery strap? I saw guys in mod/foam smack boards at 40mph and their batteries come out looking fine.
Doubling up on the tape will help a lot, make sure the tape is tight and no movement in the batteries, then are the batteries sitting down in the slots and did you round off the edges in the slots so the batteries will lay nicely in them and support them.
Rounding the edges also keep the tape from getting cut and batteries flying out! Last, use a good quality tape!
I hope this helps!
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Old 01-18-2006, 10:53 AM   #12335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axle182
Hi Martin,

Hoping you may have the answer to help me out again. Ive recently changed to the std 415 from my TA05 in stock, as i couldnt get the 05 to corner fast enough. Im now having similar problems with the 415. I still have the same block setup as above, and ive been trying different shock settings. At the last time on the track i tried AE yellow springs on front, purple on rear, and reduced the front inner link height to 3mm. It still doesnt rotate fast enough, and seems to 'bog down' in the middle of the corners. Everyone else at my track is xray so finding a setup locally isnt going to happen. The Xrays last night were just sooo much faster through the centre of the corner. I also know i was using way too much steering to get it to turn, you could see the front tyres sliding. I was going to lower the front inner linkage further to gain more front grip, but wondering how to 'free' the car up in the centre, so it accelerates decently out of the corners. Im loosing a tonne of ground in the centre. Heres the details of my setup as i remember it -

Front -
Droop - 1mm
Springs - AE Yellow
Oil - 70 Wt
Inside upper link - 3mm
Blocks - A and A no spacers
Sway Bars - Blue
Toe Out - None
Camber - 1.5
Wheel Base - As far forward as poss.
Ride Height - 4mm

Rear -
Droop - 1mm
Springs - AE purple
Oil - 70 Wt
outside upper link - .7mm
Blocks - d and b no spacers
Sway Bars - none
Camber - 1.5
Wheel Base - As far backward as poss.
Ride Height - 5mm

Track is very tight and small, decent grip carpet, using double pink/double pink orange tyres, Stock motor, Front Ball Diff and centre locked diff. Also my tyres are tall (limited access to a truer) and noticed that to get a decent ride height, i reduced the spring preload so much that the lower arms looked like this \ / instead of / \. Is this bad for the roll centre? I started thinking i need spacers to raise the blocks??? Any help would be gladly appreciated
Holy cow!!! Batman!!! Take off that blue sway bar in the front and you will see how much steering you'll have in the corners. Try first with no sway bar then if there is too much then work your way back up with soft ,them medium. Or Put the sway bar in the back and not the front both will have the same affect!!
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Old 01-18-2006, 10:59 AM   #12336
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Thankyou for your suggestions guys. I literally stared at my car last night and had absolutely no idea what to try next. OK ill take off the sway bar, and try changing the rear geometry. I was tempted to add shims under the blocks. Glad to see i was 'almost' on the right track Thanks!
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Old 01-18-2006, 11:04 AM   #12337
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Ah ah i didn't see you had a blue roll bar on front, definately take it off !
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Old 01-18-2006, 11:20 AM   #12338
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I really confused myself last night. a really stupid question, when checking rear toe in, on the hudy setup gear, if i want 2 deg toe in, i should see 1 deg toe in on each side? or 2 deg on each side? yes it was a bad bad night lol.

What blocks do you think i should be running as a base also? does the current ones seem ok? I dont have any more uprights, so Ill be adjusting rear toe with the suspension blocks.
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Old 01-18-2006, 11:31 AM   #12339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRF415boy
Well only if you're using the LW suspension that comes with the MS and MSX. In that case you indeed need to use HPI front hubs, with a 0.5mm shim on top of it, and either the pro4 driveshafts or use the wheel axles from the standard 415 suspension with 0.7mm of shims between the hub and the hex. Of course you'll need 4 5x10x4 bearings.
So with that being said you need to run the old 415 wheel axles with the HPI Hub carriers, correct?
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Old 01-18-2006, 11:31 AM   #12340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axle182
I really confused myself last night. a really stupid question, when checking rear toe in, on the hudy setup gear, if i want 2 deg toe in, i should see 1 deg toe in on each side? or 2 deg on each side? yes it was a bad bad night lol.

What blocks do you think i should be running as a base also? does the current ones seem ok? I dont have any more uprights, so Ill be adjusting rear toe with the suspension blocks.
When we say 2° rear toe, this is for each side. The standard rear hubs are 2°, so this is the lowest you can go without buying any optional part, since it's very not recommended to put inboard toe out on the rear wishbones.
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Old 01-18-2006, 11:33 AM   #12341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m8commando
So with that being said you need to run the old 415 wheel axles with the HPI Hub carriers, correct?
correct, and with shimming.
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Old 01-18-2006, 11:35 AM   #12342
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I have the alloy uprights as in pic (was taken a few weeks ago. spring changes etc since then). Im almost certain that they are 1 deg uprights, but they could be 0 deg, as it was a few weeks since i checked rear toe. Ill check my rear blocks etc against the block chart from Tryhard.
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Old 01-18-2006, 11:49 AM   #12343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E.J. Evans
Carl, here is the setup I have and it’s pretty good.

Old suspension.

Front:

Spring: Assc Purple (30 lbs)
Shock oil: 50
Position: 3 hole
Hole: Second hole or third hole in depending what you like
Sway Bar: Yellow
Droop: 2mm (when you raise the chassis it should go up 2mm before the tires lift)
Camber: 1.5
Arm position: all the way back
Toe out: up to you 0 to .5 out
Camber link: Middle hole 2mm under inside hole.
Ride height: 5 mm
Blocks: B/A
Wheel Spacer: .5

Rear:

Spring: Assc Red
Shock oil: 40
Position: 3 hole
Hole: Second hole on MSX shock tower
Sway Bar: None
Droop: 3 to 4mm (when you raise the chassis it should go up 3 to 4mm before the tires lift)
Camber: 1.5
Arm position: middle to all the way back
Camber link: Middle hole 2mm under inside hole.
Ride height: 5.5 mm
Blocks: A/C with 1 degree toe out blocks
Camber Link: inside hole on chassis and outer hole on hub. 1mm under inside and 2mm under outside.
Wheel Spacer: 1.5
Thanks EJ...I plan to tear-down the car this weekend....
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Old 01-18-2006, 12:24 PM   #12344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axle182
I have the alloy uprights as in pic (was taken a few weeks ago. spring changes etc since then). Im almost certain that they are 1 deg uprights, but they could be 0 deg, as it was a few weeks since i checked rear toe. Ill check my rear blocks etc against the block chart from Tryhard.
They are 1°.
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Old 01-18-2006, 12:49 PM   #12345
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how could you tell? are the 0 deg different? so that means im currently running 2 deg of rear toe. will going to 1.5 make it rotate better and 'free er'? thanks for your advice
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