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Old 01-17-2006, 02:29 PM   #12316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcoldman
Thanks to all for the responses regarding 415 parts, etc.

I had planned using my Refine 2 for both Carpet and Asphalt racing (both in the modified class). This started me thinking about whether or not the stock Refine 2 has the front wheel clearance to run 28mm foam tires for carpet. I noticed on Marc Rheinard's setup that he was using 4mm wheel hubs with .5 spacers.

Are these wheel hubs and shims stock in the Refine 2 or would I need to order them as additional items?

Are there any other parts necessary to run 28mm foams?

BTW - I was going to design/cut my own CF upper plate and chassis similar to Joe's to keep the car as stiff as possible (With counter sunk metric screws....)

Thanks again.
I think the Refine 2 has 5mm wheel hexes, not the ususal 4mm. So this should have more clearence.
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Old 01-17-2006, 02:34 PM   #12317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano
just a few differences I noticed from previous set-up

From what I can remember:
Fr: 60 wt oil / purple ASC spring / B&A "bridge" - flat on chassis / standard arms / red foam in shock / 4 degree castor / ball diff tight / Parma Cyan

RR: 60 wt oil / red ASC spring / A&A blocks - flat on chassis / standard arms / red foam in shock / 1 degree toe alum block / Parma Magenta

I will admit...that earlier posts I discounted the concern relating to tweak...I will lossen everything and reset....

Things I will change:
I notice someone posted d/d fr & b/d rear...I will revisit this.

Thanks for the help
Carl, here is the setup I have and it’s pretty good.

Old suspension.

Front:

Spring: Assc Purple (30 lbs)
Shock oil: 50
Position: 3 hole
Hole: Second hole or third hole in depending what you like
Sway Bar: Yellow
Droop: 2mm (when you raise the chassis it should go up 2mm before the tires lift)
Camber: 1.5
Arm position: all the way back
Toe out: up to you 0 to .5 out
Camber link: Middle hole 2mm under inside hole.
Ride height: 5 mm
Blocks: B/A
Wheel Spacer: .5

Rear:

Spring: Assc Red
Shock oil: 40
Position: 3 hole
Hole: Second hole on MSX shock tower
Sway Bar: None
Droop: 3 to 4mm (when you raise the chassis it should go up 3 to 4mm before the tires lift)
Camber: 1.5
Arm position: middle to all the way back
Camber link: Middle hole 2mm under inside hole.
Ride height: 5.5 mm
Blocks: A/C with 1 degree toe out blocks
Camber Link: inside hole on chassis and outer hole on hub. 1mm under inside and 2mm under outside.
Wheel Spacer: 1.5
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Old 01-17-2006, 05:25 PM   #12318
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Default 415 Parts for sale

Hello guys. I don't mean to clog up this thread but if you are looking for brand new in the bag parts for your 415, 415 MS and Refine 2, I am selling a bunch in the for sale forum very, very cheap. Stuff like a Jergen front aluminum diff, all kinda of carbon fiber and misc parts. All are 100% brand new in the factory packaging.

Here's the link

http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.p...58#post2075358

Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-17-2006, 05:27 PM   #12319
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as trf415boy saw when i bent a steering rod ... talk about bitter and twisted .
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Old 01-18-2006, 02:36 AM   #12320
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What size spacer do I need to put under the suspension mount on the front if I replace the bridged type with an upturned non bridge mount?
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Old 01-18-2006, 02:54 AM   #12321
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Hi,

I leave in Europe and I buy products anywhere on this planet, but I am still having difficulties, since I changed from the X company to the Blue one, in finding parts for my MSX.

I found a nice done speed web tech rc shop in the US but,...almost allways only the pics - most is out of the stock.

Do you know some shops carriyng all the 415 Tam parts plus the Square and other hops goodies???

In the other kind of businesses I worked as in the one I work now (Medical Equipment) there are lots of available products but not that much money nor purchasers

thanks in advance

Cy
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Old 01-18-2006, 02:59 AM   #12322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drcy

Hi,

I leave in Europe and I buy products anywhere on this planet, but I am still having difficulties, since I changed from the X company to the Blue one, in finding parts for my MSX.

I found a nice done speed web tech rc shop in the US but,...almost allways only the pics - most is out of the stock.

Do you know some shops carriyng all the 415 Tam parts plus the Square and other hops goodies???

In the other kind of businesses I worked as in the one I work now (Medical Equipment) there are lots of available products but not that much money nor purchasers

thanks in advance

Cy
Congrates on the switch....

I'd recommand ChampRC,they have a whole tread under champ rc,go check it out.

Or you can try www.rainbowten.co.jp

Hope this helps....
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Old 01-18-2006, 03:58 AM   #12323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry_Hughes
What size spacer do I need to put under the suspension mount on the front if I replace the bridged type with an upturned non bridge mount?
If you're using one of the narrow X series (XA-XD) then you need a 3mm spacer.

If you're using one of the older blocks (A-D) you need more than 3mm. I don't know the exact amout, I'm sure someone else on here will though

I found this out the hard way last friday when I tried to put a B Block on the front with 3mm spacers, and there was still a gap between the spacer and the block, so out it came again
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Old 01-18-2006, 04:02 AM   #12324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender
If you're using one of the older blocks (A-D) you need more than 3mm. I don't know the exact amout, I'm sure someone else on here will though

I found this out the hard way last friday when I tried to put a B Block on the front with 3mm spacers, and there was still a gap between the spacer and the block, so out it came again
5mm and you'll need to grind the spacer so it sits flat on the block.
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Old 01-18-2006, 08:27 AM   #12325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Crisp
AJ,

With the one-way it will be a challenge to find a setup that works consistently if the track is high bite. The car willl feel like it wants to continue turning the corner when you want it to go straight, not to mention the harsh turn-in you will get. Having said that, here is a setup to start with.

Front:

droop - 1mm
springs - in the 30 to 33lb range (eg. assoc purple)
oil -80 orion
shock Pos. - 2 holes in on shock tower. outer hole on arm
inside upper links - 5mm spacer (take away spacers if you want more steering)
blocks - A and A no spacers
caster - 4 degrees
sway bars - Blue
toe out - none
wheel hub spacers - 0mm
camber 1.5
wheel base - run as far forward as possible
ride height - 5 mm

Rear:

droop - 1mm
springs - 25 to 28lb spring (eg. assoc red or copper)
oil - 80 orion
shock pos - two holes in on shock tower, inner of two holes on arm
inside upper links - no spacers
outside upper link - 0.7 (if you have the alloy uprights)
upper link length - middle hole on alloy upright (or highest hole on plastic one)
blocks - d and b, no spacers (2 degree toe in)
wheel base - 2mm backward
belt - position 2
ride height - 5 mm


Only put traction compound on the inside half of the front tire and glue the vertical sidewall (front tire only) to help reduce the effect of the one-way.
Hi Martin,

Hoping you may have the answer to help me out again. Ive recently changed to the std 415 from my TA05 in stock, as i couldnt get the 05 to corner fast enough. Im now having similar problems with the 415. I still have the same block setup as above, and ive been trying different shock settings. At the last time on the track i tried AE yellow springs on front, purple on rear, and reduced the front inner link height to 3mm. It still doesnt rotate fast enough, and seems to 'bog down' in the middle of the corners. Everyone else at my track is xray so finding a setup locally isnt going to happen. The Xrays last night were just sooo much faster through the centre of the corner. I also know i was using way too much steering to get it to turn, you could see the front tyres sliding. I was going to lower the front inner linkage further to gain more front grip, but wondering how to 'free' the car up in the centre, so it accelerates decently out of the corners. Im loosing a tonne of ground in the centre. Heres the details of my setup as i remember it -

Front -
Droop - 1mm
Springs - AE Yellow
Oil - 70 Wt
Inside upper link - 3mm
Blocks - A and A no spacers
Sway Bars - Blue
Toe Out - None
Camber - 1.5
Wheel Base - As far forward as poss.
Ride Height - 4mm

Rear -
Droop - 1mm
Springs - AE purple
Oil - 70 Wt
outside upper link - .7mm
Blocks - d and b no spacers
Sway Bars - none
Camber - 1.5
Wheel Base - As far backward as poss.
Ride Height - 5mm

Track is very tight and small, decent grip carpet, using double pink/double pink orange tyres, Stock motor, Front Ball Diff and centre locked diff. Also my tyres are tall (limited access to a truer) and noticed that to get a decent ride height, i reduced the spring preload so much that the lower arms looked like this \ / instead of / \. Is this bad for the roll centre? I started thinking i need spacers to raise the blocks??? Any help would be gladly appreciated
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Old 01-18-2006, 08:39 AM   #12326
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Silly question, but I am serious!! I hate taping in batteries because when I do clod a wall head on-I always bend all my battery bars. Nothing more embarrasing then pulling your car off with cells hanging out. DONT anyone say "dont hit anything" because I might be a faster driver than you and its stupid advice anyways!!!

So-would running a saddle type configuration with a braided bar in the middle help, or do you just run two peices of tape? I dont know-how do you keep your cells in your cars without a battery strap? I saw guys in mod/foam smack boards at 40mph and their batteries come out looking fine.
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Old 01-18-2006, 08:48 AM   #12327
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I use two layers on Xenon Tape and I could tell you that I am not the best driver. Sometimes I hit barriers but battery bars do not bend. You might want to put a tiny bit Shoe-Goo in between the cells (only the middle section of the cells). Also, be sure to file the edges where the tape goes through. Make it smooth.
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Old 01-18-2006, 08:53 AM   #12328
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hey Ray... some of the things i do that help are use a little shoegoo on the cells opposite the ends where the bars are. makes the pack more sturdy...

i have also used a strip of the Xenon tape on the top of the pack itself and leave it on there all the time.
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Old 01-18-2006, 08:55 AM   #12329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axle182
Hi Martin,

Hoping you may have the answer to help me out again. Ive recently changed to the std 415 from my TA05 in stock, as i couldnt get the 05 to corner fast enough. Im now having similar problems with the 415. I still have the same block setup as above, and ive been trying different shock settings. At the last time on the track i tried AE yellow springs on front, purple on rear, and reduced the front inner link height to 3mm. It still doesnt rotate fast enough, and seems to 'bog down' in the middle of the corners. Everyone else at my track is xray so finding a setup locally isnt going to happen. The Xrays last night were just sooo much faster through the centre of the corner. I also know i was using way too much steering to get it to turn, you could see the front tyres sliding. I was going to lower the front inner linkage further to gain more front grip, but wondering how to 'free' the car up in the centre, so it accelerates decently out of the corners. Im loosing a tonne of ground in the centre. Heres the details of my setup as i remember it -

Front -
Droop - 1mm
Springs - AE Yellow
Oil - 70 Wt
Inside upper link - 3mm
Blocks - A and A no spacers
Sway Bars - Blue
Toe Out - None
Camber - 1.5
Wheel Base - As far forward as poss.
Ride Height - 4mm

Rear -
Droop - 1mm
Springs - AE purple
Oil - 70 Wt
outside upper link - .7mm
Blocks - d and b no spacers
Sway Bars - none
Camber - 1.5
Wheel Base - As far backward as poss.
Ride Height - 5mm

Track is very tight and small, decent grip carpet, using double pink/double pink orange tyres, Stock motor, Front Ball Diff and centre locked diff. Also my tyres are tall (limited access to a truer) and noticed that to get a decent ride height, i reduced the spring preload so much that the lower arms looked like this \ / instead of / \. Is this bad for the roll centre? I started thinking i need spacers to raise the blocks??? Any help would be gladly appreciated

Maybe because your tyres are big your roll centre is too low. I know this would make the car to react slowly and slow down a lot in the corners. I'd say try 1mm shims under the rear blocks (don't forget to put 1mm under the upper link's ball joint chassis side), and move your rear wishbones forward so the car will still have traction on power. Also how much toe do you have ? The stock hubs give 2° of outboard toe, you might want to get the optional 1° ones (aluminium ones, but plastic ones exists too).
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Old 01-18-2006, 08:57 AM   #12330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Silly question, but I am serious!! I hate taping in batteries because when I do clod a wall head on-I always bend all my battery bars. Nothing more embarrasing then pulling your car off with cells hanging out. DONT anyone say "dont hit anything" because I might be a faster driver than you and its stupid advice anyways!!!

So-would running a saddle type configuration with a braided bar in the middle help, or do you just run two peices of tape? I dont know-how do you keep your cells in your cars without a battery strap? I saw guys in mod/foam smack boards at 40mph and their batteries come out looking fine.
Ray, I made it simple, I made a battery bar
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