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Tamiya TRF415

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Old 03-10-2004, 07:44 PM
  #1216  
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Thumbs up Re: Re: Re: Aluminum Rear Hubs

Originally posted by jeffreylin
I guess it is about the bling...I am guilty myself (you saw the shocks last night). Anyway. This car is damn tough but my rims are taking all the hits now. I cracked 2 Tamiya rims last night during practice and race. I am going to try the Yokomo ones and see if they hold up better.

Some of the local racers in my area use the Yok dish wheels and they had no issues with them. Even the manager of my LHS said they are sturdy and recommended to try them out. But I instead got a set of the Yok's 10 spoke wheels.
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Old 03-10-2004, 07:56 PM
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Originally posted by Difuser

I have 2 sets coming 1 for the SE3 and 1 for the 415 when Fred gets them in. Rod any word yet?
What's up Dan, I'm glad you're feeling better. Tamiya said they "might" arrive tomorrow and will be released soon after.

The aluminum ones do offer more tuning options and you can definately feel difference when you use them. Also, with 1degree you use more toe-in on the inboard side, just a different feel. I'll have them on the 415 as well, that way we can all be on the same level to directly compare setups with

Edit: Dan you better get your man working on the center and front spools. They look like they're going to be a challenge to make
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Old 03-10-2004, 08:04 PM
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Post Alum. hubs

I have 2 sets coming 1 for the SE3 and 1 for the 415 when Fred gets them in. Rod any word yet? [/B][/QUOTE]

Dan the man...welcome back!

Not sure what is going on with the availablity of the hubs unless they sold thru the first batch?, but I picked a set up last week...along with the new drive shaft (Rod, I had DA look the parts #'s up)
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Old 03-10-2004, 08:09 PM
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Originally posted by Difuser
Beside bling it is also about tuning. The Alu hubs have 3 holes for the vertical ball stud. You can use the different lengths and also move the ball vertically. Jeff there might be a touch of weight penalty but also if the fine tuning is there the parts will stay on my car. For those who don't use them or don't want the alum parts, you have four current options for roll at the hub the 2d rear upright and the 1d that came on the 04 and the new 02. The link locations are different on each upright.

I have 2 sets coming 1 for the SE3 and 1 for the 415 when Fred gets them in. Rod any word yet?
I see. I did not realize that they offer more mounting options. But still, why not a plastic one with more mounting options? Anyway, please share your experience with these hubs. Thanks!
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Old 03-10-2004, 09:03 PM
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I was able to build a front diff for the 415 tonight. The next challenge is the center one-way pully. For the front diff I ended up using two female ends of an HPI diff (I found them at a local hobby shop). I used my motor lath to cut away some of the material so it would fit in the front bulk heads. I also had to find a tube to connect the two female outdrives.

For the center one-way pully I think I will look at what I can do with the TA04 center pully system that treats both pully's as one unit. I have not looked at this in much detail, but I think I will need to cut some material away, so that it will fit.

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Old 03-10-2004, 09:15 PM
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Default belt rubbing?

Hi, does anyone have any problem with the rear belt rubbing the rear forward suspension block? It does not touch normally but I suspect it does sometimes as both the block and the belt is showing a little wear. Thanks!
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Old 03-10-2004, 09:17 PM
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Originally posted by jeffreylin
I see. I did not realize that they offer more mounting options. But still, why not a plastic one with more mounting options? Anyway, please share your experience with these hubs. Thanks!
jeff my blue surikarn is underwight as it is plus the tunning option and the bling .
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Old 03-10-2004, 09:36 PM
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Originally posted by ngo8
jeff my blue surikarn is underwight as it is plus the tunning option and the bling .
What exactly is the minimum weight under ROAR rules anyway? But beyond that, even if your car is underweight you do not want to add unsprung weight as it makes the car less agile:

http://www.fact-index.com/u/un/unsprung_weight.html
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Old 03-10-2004, 09:44 PM
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maybe those alum rear hubs make it easier to mount 30mm foams... i know i have a tough time on the rear of my evo... file a little here, trim some there!
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Old 03-11-2004, 12:29 AM
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rod / difuser / madjack

didnt know the alum hubs had more holes.. meaning the camber links can be lengthened or shortened accordingly? i know the CGM has this type of set up. that does provide more tuning options.

being the newbie.. what do you mean about inboard toe? the toe in is controlled more by the blocks instead of the hubs? please explain.. thanks!

martin.. someone posted earlier you can use the diff halves from a Yok SD to make a front diff. i think it was Ko Racer that experiemented with his MY02-R. i have the same parts.. but need the rear diff pulley to make a front diff. any word on available for the rear diff parts? thanks guys. car looks great with a lot of the top socal drivers jumping in and driving it! support will be awesome.
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Old 03-11-2004, 04:01 AM
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Originally posted by tamiyadriver
maybe those alum rear hubs make it easier to mount 30mm foams... i know i have a tough time on the rear of my evo... file a little here, trim some there!
30mm foams????? Use 26mm foams! Same grip, less resistance, this means more speed!
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Old 03-11-2004, 05:11 AM
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As far as a front spool, and locking up the center oneway- couldn't you clean out the grease and "relube" the oneway bearings with a little JB Weld? I have done it on a Barracuda front oneway before and it works great.
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Old 03-11-2004, 05:36 AM
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Originally posted by trf415
As far as a front spool, and locking up the center oneway- couldn't you clean out the grease and "relube" the oneway bearings with a little JB Weld? I have done it on a Barracuda front oneway before and it works great.
I can see doing it if there is no other way . but on a cuda man diffs are so easy to get why mess up a front one way . I will be trying the yokomo /tech diff out this weekend kinda late in the season to really devote my time to a front diff with outside running coming soon I will need the oneway.
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Old 03-11-2004, 07:30 AM
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Default yokomo diff

I tried the yokomo diff as ko racer described. The yokomo diff I built looks identical to Ko racer's picture. However it required much more customization to fit into the car. I think you could make it fit if you cut about 3mm off the end of each outdrive and then moved the ridge that the bearing sits against in by about 5mm on each side. The HPI diffs required much less customization than the yokomo one would have. Also the yokomo diff was just plastic while the HPI one is a much harder material (I think graphite or somthing similar).
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Old 03-11-2004, 07:53 AM
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Default Re: yokomo diff

Originally posted by Martin Crisp
I tried the yokomo diff as ko racer described. The yokomo diff I built looks identical to Ko racer's picture. However it required much more customization to fit into the car. I think you could make it fit if you cut about 3mm off the end of each outdrive and then moved the ridge that the bearing sits against in by about 5mm on each side. The HPI diffs required much less customization than the yokomo one would have. Also the yokomo diff was just plastic while the HPI one is a much harder material (I think graphite or somthing similar).

Thanks for your thoughts . by the way waht is the distance between the bulkheads there might be a difference between tamiya and Tech .my bulkheads are 34.40mm from one to the other and the diff from ring to ring is 35.82mm so i had little mod to do.
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