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Old 01-16-2006, 10:25 AM   #12271
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You need

Tamiya: 51055, 53379(or any other 3mm diff balls), 53030

Yokomo: ZS-501, ZS-506, ZS-507, ZS-508

If you don't have the LW suspension you need tamiyas 46mm driveshafts-51092(steel) or 53724 (alum)

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Old 01-16-2006, 10:26 AM   #12272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natskiboy
how do I go about getting a front diff for a 415.
Nevermind...already posted.
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Old 01-16-2006, 11:10 AM   #12273
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RC Alum Diff Joint Set - TRF415
Item #53889 (COMING SOON)

High precision aluminum parts allow diff adjustment without removing joint from chassis, and are easy to perform maintenance on.
*Compatible chassis: TRF415, TRF415MS, Chassis with Item 49378 TRF415MS Up-Grade Parts Set, TRF415MSX

can somebody explain just what they are talking about? how would i adjust the diff without taking the dogbones out of the drives? what am i missing here?
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Old 01-16-2006, 11:52 AM   #12274
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Probably a bit like the Xray. Instead of having a screw head (hex) there is just a hole in the outdrive and a holes which goes throught the screw head. Line these up then turn one way or turn the other to make the adjustment. of course you'll need to hold the opposite wheel.

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Old 01-16-2006, 11:52 AM   #12275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sohlman
I bought a spare car that had this aluminum front diff in it. I was told someone in Germany was selling them.?.?.? I put it in my MSX...fits fine, but you must use the 42mm shafts.
Yes thatīs true. Someone here makes aluminium diff halves for a front diff. I have to say I also bought the diff halves but never tried as I like the oneway very much. Also we donīt run foams so you donīt need a frontdiff really.
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Old 01-16-2006, 01:33 PM   #12276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles Godwin
Probably a bit like the Xray. Instead of having a screw head (hex) there is just a hole in the outdrive and a holes which goes throught the screw head. Line these up then turn one way or turn the other to make the adjustment. of course you'll need to hold the opposite wheel.

Charles
Problem is, to get that to work on the 415 diff, the thrust race would have to be on the other side, as at the moment the head of the bolt is right in the place where the bearing goes...
I was discussing this with TRF415boy at the weekend. And the conclusion was that without a redesign of the internals, it would be darn hard to do that on the car as it is.

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Last edited by TryHard; 01-16-2006 at 02:09 PM.
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Old 01-16-2006, 02:02 PM   #12277
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can anyone post every item needed to make the new externally adjustable diff.
thanx
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Old 01-16-2006, 02:34 PM   #12278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeGlover
Just some fyi to the guys running the msx on carpet. I had this top deck made up and it drastically improved the the chassis flex without modifying your old mid decks. Zero tweak issue and the car was definetly more stable. Since this was a Ms conversion it has the 2.5mm chassis. I love this car!
Joe is there anyway I can get one of those upper decks, I like it.
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Old 01-16-2006, 07:51 PM   #12279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hierog
RC Alum Diff Joint Set - TRF415
Item #53889 (COMING SOON)

High precision aluminum parts allow diff adjustment without removing joint from chassis, and are easy to perform maintenance on.
*Compatible chassis: TRF415, TRF415MS, Chassis with Item 49378 TRF415MS Up-Grade Parts Set, TRF415MSX

can somebody explain just what they are talking about? how would i adjust the diff without taking the dogbones out of the drives? what am i missing here?
Sounds like another thing I have to buy. Damn you Tamiya and your tempting hopups
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Old 01-16-2006, 08:09 PM   #12280
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Recently I was looking at the setup sheet and can anyone explain to me what "rebound stroke" is.

Thanks

Is it similar to droop?
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Old 01-16-2006, 08:22 PM   #12281
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Exclamation symantics!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by trf_racer
Recently I was looking at the setup sheet and can anyone explain to me what "rebound stroke" is.

Thanks

Is it similar to droop?
I believe it's one in the same! Just another name for the same thing!
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Old 01-16-2006, 11:18 PM   #12282
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Rebound stroke is the same as droop. But it could be measured differently on different setup sheets/drivers. Some measure it with wheels off the car sitting flat on a setup board. They measure the top of the axle. Alot of Tamiya drivers use this method. Measurements will be like 24.5mm or 25mm. Another way is measuring droop under the arm or hub using a droop gauge. Another is with car sitting on setup board with tires on. Then measuring ride height. Then raising chassis up until the arms bottom out on the droop screws or til tires lift off the board and measure the chassis height and subtract the ride height from that to get rebound stroke. And I'm sure there are tons of other ways too...
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Old 01-16-2006, 11:31 PM   #12283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V12
From what I have heard the HPI Pro4 springs are the same as Alex Racing springs.
Alex Springs are shorter than Pro4's. Alex are more like Yokomo springs.
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Old 01-16-2006, 11:34 PM   #12284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racenut
maybe you guys could help me, since you are a tamiya fanatic. I have a TAO4 pro that i hop-up with evrything i possibly could. I love the car even thouhg its quite old. could you give me some pointers on setting up my kit??? i run stock touring in asphat not so high speed tracks here in the philippines. tnx

is there a forum about TAO4?
Yes, there's an old TA04 thread here on rc tech somewhere. Advanced search should bring it back.
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Old 01-17-2006, 02:15 AM   #12285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeR
Alex Springs are shorter than Pro4's. Alex are more like Yokomo springs.
Iīm talking about the black HPI springs with just the small colour code point on top of the springs. These look the same as Alex springs and a HPI guy confirmed this.
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