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Old 01-14-2006, 03:12 AM   #12241
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has anyone managed to stop these things tweaking? racing on carpet with rubbers was enough to tweak mine. it started the race perfect and with no crashes, just decided to tweak. there are no loose screws etc. anyone tried cone washers etc? its a very good car but tweak is annoying
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Old 01-14-2006, 04:34 AM   #12242
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Something doesn't sound right there. I have never really had any problems with tweak. I don't race on carpet, but I'm sure it wouldn't be much worse than high bite asphalt( I know its very different but it still shouldn't be enough to tweak a well tuned chassis). If its tweaking without you hitting or clipping anything, your not doing something right. If you loosen the top deck, shock towers, bulk heads, pop the shocks off, disconnect the sway bars, loosen all, the screws on the botton of the chassis and let the chassis sit and let it relax for 12-24 hours and tighten everything back up, make sure you x pattern everthing, triple check shock lengths and preloads and triple check the droop, it shouldn't tweak without at least hitting something.
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Old 01-14-2006, 04:47 AM   #12243
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hi, all the above checks have been done, eg droop, shock lengths etc. i will try letting the chassis rest.
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Old 01-14-2006, 04:52 AM   #12244
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Hey,

Yep, Give the chassis some relax time... It does help. If I hit something during a race day, I always loosen the car up and let it rest at the end of the day, even if I don't feel the car tweak. Works for me !
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Old 01-14-2006, 06:13 AM   #12245
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Actually i had a similar problem on Friday night. Checking the car after each run revealed a small tweak in 3 out of 4 races.

It was quickly fixed by loosening the top deck, makng sure the chassis was flat, then retightening the screws - but considering I didn't hit anything was quite surprised

Anyway, a few questions for the more experienced 415 users:

What is the difference with regards to the width of the suspension mounts. I know there are lots of different combos, so what is the difference between running 2 degrees toe-in with narrow track width compared to the same toe-in with a wider track width?

Secondly, the MSX comes std with 2 degrees toe-out on the front suspension. What is the effect of this, more turn-in? more mid corner steering? etc I have theories but would like to hear from those with more experience.

Finally, how can I reduce mid-corner steering without sacrficing steering anywhere else? On Friday night my car had excellent turn-in, but would then suddenly oversteer mid-corner (too much rotation), and then understeer coming out of the turns. Any ideas?
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Old 01-14-2006, 07:34 AM   #12246
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The car has inboard toe out which will give more mid corner steering. Given the problem you are describing, I'd return the inboard toe out to neutral and see how the car handles then.
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Old 01-14-2006, 09:40 AM   #12247
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Wider track width will make your car more stable. It's good to have wider track width in bid tracks. In small tracks, narrower track width might be good since you want more steering to get through tight corners.
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Old 01-14-2006, 11:31 AM   #12248
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hey any one tried the marc's setting? also will there be any difference if u use alu rear upright compared to the normal ones??
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Old 01-14-2006, 12:04 PM   #12249
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Wider blocks will provide a lower Roll Centre, so you'll have more mechanical grip, but it might not reflect on the track, since sometimes it's not good to have too low a RC. On carpet with the old style suspension use D-D on front and B-D on rear (with 1 rear hubs).

As for the MSX setup, I agree it's got quite a lot of mid corner steering, which was good indoors yesterday, but might not prove good on a bigger track.

I've not experienced any issues with tweak on the car yet. To those who do I will repeat myself : make sure you have tightened the screws well and that you have done it in the right order : bulkhead under the chassis first, then the parts that comes over the diffs (the shock towers must be loose at that point, and make sure you push them towards their stops on the fileted edge), then the beam that connects the two rear bulkheads, then the top plate on the bulkhead, then the shock towers (making sure you pull them upwards when you tighten them so they are always in the same position) and last I do is the part that goes on the front end of the rear bulkheads (lightly tighten the two sidde screws to put it in place, then tighten the one under the chassis, then tighten the side screws), then the top deck (I push it forward when doing that).
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Old 01-14-2006, 02:59 PM   #12250
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I also tighten my car back up in the exact order TRF415boy just listed.
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Old 01-14-2006, 07:48 PM   #12251
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Any news on the 4mm chassis? Like release date? I've decided to put up my MSX R2 til they do. Too much tweak and flex. If I can't get it by Snowbirds.. I'm Screwed!! haha...
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Old 01-14-2006, 09:00 PM   #12252
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Default breaking in drivetrain

how long do you guys run in your drivetrain after building a new car? as i built my msx, i installed acer ceramics, but didn't blow them out and re-oil them until after i have broken in the drivetrain.

i have an old stock motor that i've hooked up and am running at 3 volts - been running straight for 2 hours now

just wondering if you all do the same

Last edited by hierog; 01-14-2006 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 01-14-2006, 09:09 PM   #12253
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how u like those acers? are wheels spinning freer?
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Old 01-14-2006, 09:17 PM   #12254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BringItOn
how u like those acers? are wheels spinning freer?
my second set of em - and i'll keeping buying them too!! really makes a difference. have a set in my surikarn, smoothest drivetrain ever - free wheels for days!

never put a set in my EVO IV though - she's next!
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Old 01-15-2006, 04:57 AM   #12255
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I haven't actually didn't bother to brake the drivetrain in when i built the car , all i did was to make sure there was nothing notchy or binding. I just put it down on the track and went racing

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