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Old 12-27-2005, 09:37 PM   #11911
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Did you use liquid thread lock? I always do when building a new car. Be sure to use only the "blue" type. If you use the "red" type... it's just like using super glue!! Don't do it!!! haha...

Drink? I think I need one!! haha.. good idea!!
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Old 12-27-2005, 09:48 PM   #11912
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I tried Tamiya thread lock on my other electric cars and it was a pain to remove the screws. That's why I didn't do that on my new TRF415MSX.
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Old 12-27-2005, 10:56 PM   #11913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trf_racer
I only have the problem that some screws come loose during the run. This happens whenever I have a new car. I am affraid that when I tighten the screw too much, the threads might stripped! I only ran one battery pack with my new TRF415MSX.
did you use loctite when screwing into the aluminum pieces? A good rule of thumb is to ALWAYS use loctite when screwing into aluminum, even if you aren't running nitro!
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Old 12-27-2005, 11:11 PM   #11914
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Originally Posted by trf_racer
I tried Tamiya thread lock on my other electric cars and it was a pain to remove the screws. That's why I didn't do that on my new TRF415MSX.

Don't use the Tamiya tread lock....Use Loctite BLUE color liquid tread lock.

Its important to use tread lock if you're screwing into metal...Like beautiful Tamiya Blue color anodised Aluminuim!!

1 day,a screw holding you toe blocks will come loose and you'll have a couple of stuff all over the track when it does...!!
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Old 12-28-2005, 03:40 AM   #11915
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As I said earlier on, if you have massive tweak problems even without hitting stuff (may i add quite hard), then you are not tightening the screws enough. Same goes if your screws comes loose. I don't use tread lock and i hardly ever have a screw come loose, only if i forgot to tighten them properly do I have them come loose. Only exception are the king pins screws since i'm using the square alloy front hubs.

So, a good advice will be the following : make sure your screws have a head in good condition, that your screwdriver is good (I recommend Hudy ones) and tighten the hell out of your screws (maybe not that much, lol). Don't be afraid of stripping the thread, unless you're using a well too short screw this won't happen, as long as there is about 5mm of the screw in the thread you should be fine. Don't be scared of changing a screw if the head's shagged, even if it means replacing a Ti screw for a Steel one.

Also, I never said it's normal that you should check the tweak after every run, or after every hit. If after a hit your car behaves normally there's no reason and if you've built it properly even less. Besides checking the car by loosening the whole structure takes about 5 minutes so it's not much time consuming and is worth doing if you have a problem. tryhard's method is alright but i prefer mine which is more complete, a bit more of pissing about but on my 415 it works a treat and it did work well on my mate's BD.
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Old 12-28-2005, 03:41 AM   #11916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender
You guys are scaring me with this talk of the MSX tweaking so easily!

If this car tweaks as soon as someone hits you then I'm a little bit worried about how competative the car actually is, as I never survive a racemeeting without someone hacking me at least once!

I know there's no way I've got time between rounds to loosen every bloody screw on the car and make sure the whole car is tweak free!

I really hope you guys are exagerating here, I don't want to spend next year chasing a setup on a car that behaves "weirdly" - I spent most of this year doing that and it ain't a lot of fun
Opps... didn't mean to scare you... BOOO! did that?

Anyway, should mention that the car doesn't really tweak that easily, the only time I had a really big problem with it was in the final I mentioned, and that was from a really big T-bone (the other guy used me as a brake... nice).
Most of the time, I would find if the car was off by putting it on the gauges, it wasn't something that was massively noticeable out on the track.
I do still think the MSX is one of the better designed new-gen cars out there, with the way the bulkheads fit together. There's still room for improvement mind, but it's better than most

Oh and btw, I've only really noticed it indoors... where there is more stuff to hit Now I'm not sure if that says something about my driving or not...
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Old 12-28-2005, 03:56 AM   #11917
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yeah Ed it does say something. If you've only had a problem in the finals it means you've improved a lot Gotcha
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Old 12-28-2005, 04:08 AM   #11918
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Talking tweak

My head is very tweaked damn you carlsberg...... )
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Old 12-28-2005, 04:13 AM   #11919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KilRuf
Bender, you'll be just fine. As with any dual deck carbon fiber chassis car.. just take the wheels off your car. Take the battery and battery tape off. Loosen the 6 top deck screws. Lay it flat on your setup board. Press the whole chassis down and tighten down the top deck. Then you should be fine. If there is a big crash. Just be sure to inspect the car over for anything bent or out of place. If the car does not sit flat on the setup board, then check the "other" screws and things....
You need to remove the bumper as well.
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Old 12-28-2005, 04:41 AM   #11920
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I've just got myself a tamiya spool (derlin outdrives) and i was wondering what pulley do i have to use? Do i use a one-way pulley or a diff pulley?

Thanks, Charles
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Old 12-28-2005, 04:53 AM   #11921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles Godwin
I've just got myself a tamiya spool (derlin outdrives) and i was wondering what pulley do i have to use? Do i use a one-way pulley or a diff pulley?

Thanks, Charles
oneway pulley
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Old 12-28-2005, 04:54 AM   #11922
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Thanks TryHard

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Old 12-28-2005, 07:39 AM   #11923
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KilRuf
Carl, I ran the old 415 last year on carpet. It was great til I started listening to other people on how to tune it "their" way. Big mistake. haha This year I'll stick with what I know. I ended up selling that car to a friend and waited for this car to come out. Now I just gotta sell my XRay...

Anyway's, so you are saying the steering rack is weak on the MSX? Did you superglue the edges? I did mine. But I also "lightly" superglued the bearings in place. This takes out a ton of slop.

Casey got one too? Damn, I'm gonna have to deal with him at the RCO for the TCS race! haha As long as I get TQ again, I'll be just fine.

I have tons of spare parts. I also race an EvoIV/MS and TA05.

Well I can't wait til asphalt season. I have tons of things I want to try out...
Hey Jim,

I would say thay the msx steering rack is weaker than the original steering rack as its milled to allow the flanged bearing to sit deeper into the carbon. The milled portion is only 2mm thick compared to a full 3mm piece on the original....with that said, the msx brace will hold-up just fine under race conditions....mine cracked (did not snap-off; a sign of excellent grade carbon) after a turn marshall try to reattached a popped ball.

I uaually CA the edges for all carbon fiber, especially the chassis...i was lazy when it came to the steering race...perhaps that did not help...

As for listening to other people set-ups...I would look back a few pages for some set-up advice from Martin Crisp...his set-ups have been good for me.

Yes, Casey has my old 415 with the MSX conversion...he is going to be a hand full to deal with...the only electric racing I plan to do this summer is under the TCS banner...I have a very busy nitro schedule this year
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Old 12-28-2005, 07:43 AM   #11924
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jw92656
Yes I would suggest using a servo saver. If you hit something there is a good chance you'll strip the servo gears. Back to the question because I did the same thing when I built my EVO4, but all 3 will fit. The two small springs are the same size. Start with the smallest one, and then the middle. The middle one will expand over the top, just press it on at an angle and work your way around, and then move onto the large one. If you only use two, which I did once, the servo will have slop and you car will have trouble going in a straight line.
I would recommend a servo saver...I had a direct servo horn on a KO digital servo and chipped a servo gear...I purchased a Tamiya heavy duty servo server...its white with 3 metal rings...the white looks cheezy but at least I know I won't damage a $90 servo. The white servo saver appears beefier than the standard black one thats included in the kit.
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Old 12-28-2005, 07:51 AM   #11925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender
You guys are scaring me with this talk of the MSX tweaking so easily!

If this car tweaks as soon as someone hits you then I'm a little bit worried about how competative the car actually is, as I never survive a racemeeting without someone hacking me at least once!

I know there's no way I've got time between rounds to loosen every bloody screw on the car and make sure the whole car is tweak free!

I really hope you guys are exagerating here, I don't want to spend next year chasing a setup on a car that behaves "weirdly" - I spent most of this year doing that and it ain't a lot of fun
Hence the reason why I had posted a comment about not worring so much about tweak...which as everyone can see has snowballed....

I would not worry about the MSX being any more prone to "tweak" than any other chassis...In my opinion so many manaufacturers are moving away from locking type moldeled pieces and going back to carbon fiber components and alum bulkheads...all following the Tamiya designs...

10 years ago...someone (a well respected RC journalist) said to me that when/if Tamiya ever decides to go seriously racing...all other manufacturers are going to be in big trouble...nice to see his predictions is coming true!!!

Besides...just do as I do...get used to driving a chassis which behaves "weirdly"...
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