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Old 12-27-2005, 03:32 PM   #11896
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles Godwin
Got a question, i've finished building the car but i can't get the servo saver to work (the springs just don't seem to fit), i know there are 3 springs but they just don't fit. The largest one does but then only 1 of the smaller ones fit. I am looking at the manuel and from where i am sitting one of the smaller ones has to fit over the other smaller one . But do i really need the servo saver as my 2123 servo has metal gears

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Dont waste your time with the kit saver, go straight for a Kimbrough medium.
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Old 12-27-2005, 03:36 PM   #11897
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Do you know the part number for Kimbrough medium

Thanks, Charles
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Old 12-27-2005, 03:38 PM   #11898
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Jim..I've raced an old 415 / 3mm chassis / standard arms on carpet so far...i have a refine kit on the way which I understand has a 2.5mm chassis...this one I'll use for asphalt..if my nitro club allows brushless electric racing..

I've posted my set-up back around pages 377, and earlier. There is a photo from speeddesignz on the same page which shows the additional modifications to stiffen the chassis...(once the 4mm is available I'll remove the old 415 cross braces)

I'm heading to the carpet clash on 01/14 at Mimi's (RC Track in MD) hope to see you there, I will have plenty of extra parts if you need any. Your going to love the new car...if anything it makes working on the diffs so simple. Craig Xavier dove my car and was fast immediately with it...Casey went out an bought one

One more mod I just made, to the steering rack..(will post photos)...

I had cracked the MSX steering rack at the point where the carbon is milled for the recessed bearing...(the part is not available yet)....however

The standard 415 rack is the same geometry...basically I sandwiched an old 415 steering rack on top of the cracked MSX top plate...glue them together...works like a charm...it actually reduces a ton of sloop...and does not look to bad

basically I had to do this: (warning: you will have to file 1mm from the front lower bulkhead for the modified rack to clear.)

1.) remove the alum ball ends so both carbon pieces are clear, rough-up with sand paper on the sides to be glue
2.) place msx plate on flat surface with bearing in place...(use excess grease on the bearings to keep glue from binding.
3.) I used slow CA, just a few drops as the screws will hold together
4.) position old 415 steering rack on top
5.) use (scrap) 3mm screws and nuts to clamp the pieces together while the glue cures.
6.) once cured, remove the screws and nuts.
7.) reattached the steering rack (except now you do not have to use the 3mm spacer under the steering rack ball ends.)

8.) file / machine 1mm from the lower front bulheads where it hits the steering rack.

Its confusing, so I'll post a few photos hopefully tomorrow.
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Old 12-27-2005, 03:39 PM   #11899
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Yes I would suggest using a servo saver. If you hit something there is a good chance you'll strip the servo gears. Back to the question because I did the same thing when I built my EVO4, but all 3 will fit. The two small springs are the same size. Start with the smallest one, and then the middle. The middle one will expand over the top, just press it on at an angle and work your way around, and then move onto the large one. If you only use two, which I did once, the servo will have slop and you car will have trouble going in a straight line.
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Old 12-27-2005, 03:57 PM   #11900
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Charles;
Can't remember the model number, but I think they are sold under the Trickbits brand over here.

HiH
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Old 12-27-2005, 05:06 PM   #11901
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano
All I'm going to say is WOW...especially considering you have no idea who is on the other side of the key board...
I know Rick and he's a good driver, been quite successful in the Eurocup, init rick ?

As for what you say about practice, I totally agree but you see, here, we usually don't get much practice and when we do get some it usually isn't worth much since the track conditions will be very different once the race starts. Indoors tracks are not open for practice here anyway since they are not permanent.

Only place where it's useful and absolutely necessary will be at outdoors national rounds, and there if you're running a car at 80% you might wanna be ready for a E or F final because competition will have cars at 100% and will be tough.

So you see Carl, what you say may be right where you are, but is not necessarily possible for everyone. Besides, I'd rather practice with a 100% car anyway. saying that, unless I find the car undriveable whilst practising at a nationals, I usually don't touch my car all day and just drive, make minor adjusments to the setup. Last nationals I made I adjusted the setup on the saturday, after 3 packs I had decided what setup/shell i was gonna run and didn't touch the car after that until the end of the race on sunday afternoom.

As for tweak, a well built car shouldn't tweak without a hit. If it does I suggest you get a better screwdriver and tighten your screws a bit more. If you take a hit you're eventually gonna bend stuff, usually hinge pins on tamiya cars, or get the chassis structure un-aligned (which is what chassis tweak is). In this case there's no point in not working on your car before next run, you normally have enough time between rounds to do that. I still reckon the design of the MSX akes for a more easily tweaked car, solely because there are more parts in the structure means that there are more parts that can move relatively to each other.
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Old 12-27-2005, 05:43 PM   #11902
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You guys are scaring me with this talk of the MSX tweaking so easily!

If this car tweaks as soon as someone hits you then I'm a little bit worried about how competative the car actually is, as I never survive a racemeeting without someone hacking me at least once!

I know there's no way I've got time between rounds to loosen every bloody screw on the car and make sure the whole car is tweak free!

I really hope you guys are exagerating here, I don't want to spend next year chasing a setup on a car that behaves "weirdly" - I spent most of this year doing that and it ain't a lot of fun
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Old 12-27-2005, 05:43 PM   #11903
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Carl, I ran the old 415 last year on carpet. It was great til I started listening to other people on how to tune it "their" way. Big mistake. haha This year I'll stick with what I know. I ended up selling that car to a friend and waited for this car to come out. Now I just gotta sell my XRay...

Anyway's, so you are saying the steering rack is weak on the MSX? Did you superglue the edges? I did mine. But I also "lightly" superglued the bearings in place. This takes out a ton of slop.

Casey got one too? Damn, I'm gonna have to deal with him at the RCO for the TCS race! haha As long as I get TQ again, I'll be just fine.

I have tons of spare parts. I also race an EvoIV/MS and TA05.

Well I can't wait til asphalt season. I have tons of things I want to try out...
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Old 12-27-2005, 05:48 PM   #11904
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Bender, you'll be just fine. As with any dual deck carbon fiber chassis car.. just take the wheels off your car. Take the battery and battery tape off. Loosen the 6 top deck screws. Lay it flat on your setup board. Press the whole chassis down and tighten down the top deck. Then you should be fine. If there is a big crash. Just be sure to inspect the car over for anything bent or out of place. If the car does not sit flat on the setup board, then check the "other" screws and things....
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Old 12-27-2005, 07:17 PM   #11905
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I think they are exaggerating here too. I've not had nearly as many problems with tweak as others have by the sounds of it. Maybe its because when you GET tweak, then its an extremely annoying.
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Old 12-27-2005, 07:44 PM   #11906
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That's good to hear.

I had an Mi2 which would never track straight and pulled to one side under brakes and I lost count of the number of times I was told that the chassis was tweaked.

But everytime I checked it it was fine - but bloody annoying to keep going through the de-tweak process every couple of weeks, I certainly don't want to do it every run!

Although Kilruf's ideas sound quick and painless enough
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Old 12-27-2005, 08:09 PM   #11907
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Bender don't worry about the tweak, What TRF415boy and TRYHARD say about more part induceing more tweak is not nesscarly true. As more part mean less tweak. Diffcult to explain as i am drunk at the minute.
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Old 12-27-2005, 08:26 PM   #11908
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KilRuf
Bender, you'll be just fine. As with any dual deck carbon fiber chassis car.. just take the wheels off your car. Take the battery and battery tape off. Loosen the 6 top deck screws. Lay it flat on your setup board. Press the whole chassis down and tighten down the top deck. Then you should be fine. If there is a big crash. Just be sure to inspect the car over for anything bent or out of place. If the car does not sit flat on the setup board, then check the "other" screws and things....

And if the above don't work....You may have to chane your chassis...
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Old 12-27-2005, 09:16 PM   #11909
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I ran my TRF415MSX today for the first time. It's an excellent car! I used CS-22 Tires with hard insert in an indoor track. I used the stock setup and it runs very smooth.
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Old 12-27-2005, 09:22 PM   #11910
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I only have the problem that some screws come loose during the run. This happens whenever I have a new car. I am affraid that when I tighten the screw too much, the threads might stripped! I only ran one battery pack with my new TRF415MSX.
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