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Old 12-26-2005, 04:21 PM   #11866
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A direct pulley is just a standard centre pulley, the 415 out of the box comes with a one-way, well the direct pulley is locked - no one-way bearing.(also, both belts run on the same pulley)

A spool is a locked front drive. The front wheels turn at the same rate.

Give the one-way's a try first.....
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Old 12-26-2005, 04:27 PM   #11867
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Default Re: servo Fitment

should fit fine just make sure you put the servo blocks on right. The holes with the square edge go in to the servo and the hole with the rounded edge goes into the chassis.
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Last edited by Smoking motor..; 12-26-2005 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 12-26-2005, 04:58 PM   #11868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoking motor..
should fit fine just make sure you put the servo blocks on right. The holes with the square edge go in to the servo and the hole with the rounded edge goes into the chassis.
rather than edit my post, i'll just claim that i'm an idiot trying to finish too quickley. smoking, you were right! the servo fits perfectly. DOH!!
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Old 12-26-2005, 05:05 PM   #11869
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No worries just don't use the rubber grommet that fit in the servo holes.

It took me half a day to build it Including all the chassis prep work and stuff.

Make sure to tighten the car up so you don't induce tweak. I 'll get TRF415boy to explain that or give you the link for that when he get back form him hols.
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Old 12-26-2005, 05:37 PM   #11870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoking motor..
No worries just don't use the rubber grommet that fit in the servo holes.

It took me half a day to build it Including all the chassis prep work and stuff.

Make sure to tighten the car up so you don't induce tweak. I 'll get TRF415boy to explain that or give you the link for that when he get back form him hols.
wouldnt mind this myself
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Old 12-27-2005, 06:49 AM   #11871
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mind what ???
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Old 12-27-2005, 08:04 AM   #11872
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoking motor..
No worries just don't use the rubber grommet that fit in the servo holes.

It took me half a day to build it Including all the chassis prep work and stuff.

Make sure to tighten the car up so you don't induce tweak. I 'll get TRF415boy to explain that or give you the link for that when he get back form him hols.
Actually I'm plnning on doing a review on the MSX which will include a chapter on how to build the structure such as to lessen chances of tweak. Need to have my MSX first (cheer up it's on its way) and then need to find time to do it...
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Old 12-27-2005, 08:33 AM   #11873
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When i built mine i built the whole structure up with belts in place but no diffs or layshaft in it. I then tightened all the screws down for the bulkheads to the top deck and chassis as otherwise, with the belts and diffs in position as the manual states, i find it harder to get the chassis tweek free as the front belt pulls the chassis with the tension.
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Old 12-27-2005, 11:02 AM   #11874
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is it possible to stretch the front belt or just wait for it to do so in its own time?
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Old 12-27-2005, 11:20 AM   #11875
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The way I set my car up for no tweak is as follows;

Firslty remove the bulkhead tops, top deck, and layshaft cover. This should just leave the lower bulkheads on the car. You can remove the drive train if you want, but it's no biggie.
Then loosen the screws holding the cross braces for the rear bulkheads, and all the lower bulkhead screws in the chassis.
Retighten the lower screws (pinch tight at first) in a cross pattern. When all are pinch tight, tighten harder.
Place the car on a flat plate [important], and retighten the cross braces in the rear bulkheads.
With the car still on the flat plate, take your upper bulkheads, and loosen the shock tower screws, and then place the upper bulkheads on the lower. Tighten the crews in a cross pattern again (also pinch tight first, then harder).
Repeat this for front and rear bulkheads (remembering to place your drivetrain back if you've taken it out ).
Next do the same for the layshaft brace (x pattern, pinch first, harder 2nd), and then top deck.
Finally, tighten your shock tower screws, applying light downward pressure to the towers, as this ensure consistancy of placement. Attach your shocks, and then check your tweak, it should be spot on (I usually check mine with an MIP tweak board).

Now thats the long winded method, the key point to follow is regarding the shock towers. They really need to be loose when you reattach the upper bulkheads. Otherwise if you don't realign the uppers into exactly the same location as before they will induce tweak.

I will admit, that following this method, whilst my car comes out spot-on on the rear, on the front it generally requires half a turn on the LF shock to get right. I have a feeling this is more to do with weight placement than tweak though.

Tweak is something you have to watch with this car though. During the last BIWS meeting I was checking it after every run, and it was usually out... I'm going to look into getting some screw collets to see if I can make it more resistant to it.

HiH
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Old 12-27-2005, 12:01 PM   #11876
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Just my 2 cents...

I feel that too many people concern themselves with chassis tweak...unless you have an uncontrollable hit and parts end up broken...I don't see how how installing belts / bulehead caps / shock towers ...etc, will "tweak" a chassis...especially on Tamiya kits where the pieces fit so well.

If installing the belts are so tight that its pulling the chassis, your doing something wrong. In the neutral setting, both the front and rear belts are fairly loose with over 3mm of flex...

basically assemble the chassis...run the piss out of the car and have a good time...

I've always look at tweak as simple as possible...remove all shocks...check suspension movement...re-confirm equal droop setting...recheck shock spacing, making sure all are equal. Once all together, you can double check the balance of the car on a tweak board or just use an xacto blade lifting the center of the front/rear of the chassis.

The car should be relatively cose to being spot on...if its way off...something is bent....

reminder...check your shock shafts from time to time...I've bent a few without even knowing where and how I did it...
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Old 12-27-2005, 12:23 PM   #11877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano
Just my 2 cents...

I feel that too many people concern themselves with chassis tweak...unless you have an uncontrollable hit and parts end up broken...I don't see how how installing belts / bulehead caps / shock towers ...etc, will "tweak" a chassis...especially on Tamiya kits where the pieces fit so well.

If installing the belts are so tight that its pulling the chassis, your doing something wrong. In the neutral setting, both the front and rear belts are fairly loose with over 3mm of flex...
I would rather build a car flat in the first place and know the chassis is 100% flat than throw a car together and then wonder why it does not run right. I guess that sets some of us apart from the rest though.

Also with the MSX i find that the front belt does pull the chassis slightly when built the tamiya way. There is nowt to prevent the top deck seating in the wrong position. But hell what would i know.....
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Old 12-27-2005, 12:32 PM   #11878
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Draper
I would rather build a car flat in the first place and know the chassis is 100% flat than throw a car together and then wonder why it does not run right. I guess that sets some of us apart from the rest though.

Also with the MSX i find that the front belt does pull the chassis slightly when built the tamiya way. There is nowt to prevent the top deck seating in the wrong position. But hell what would i know.....
All I'm going to say is WOW...especially considering you have no idea who is on the other side of the key board...
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Old 12-27-2005, 12:38 PM   #11879
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I'm agreement with rick (although not is the same manner... bit harsh).
I'd prefer to check that the car is 100% before I put it on the track... at least I only have myself to blame then!
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Old 12-27-2005, 12:48 PM   #11880
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Question....what happens after all is 100% after going through the process on a flat surface.....you get T-Boned during practice????

Do you start the procedure all over again or do you live with it????

My time is better spent getting in as much practice with a car that at 80% than over-engineering a chassis to get the tweak just right...

Believe me, it took me a long time to get this through my head...after being told by 3 world champions to stop over-engineering the car and just drive...I've realized that the more stick time I get, the better-off I am...
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