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Old 11-23-2005, 05:13 PM   #11461
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There's an "A" block too, I've just found it!
pics....please......kitty
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Old 11-23-2005, 05:14 PM   #11462
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Hmmm....according to Tamiya, adjustment without disassembly should be possible. The halves look a lot like the plastic ones from your pics, so I thought the difference would lie with the screw, and maybe a hole in the outdrive for an allen wrench to pass through.....
You might be able to fit an "L" shaped Allen key in the end of the outdrive and into the screw head with removing the diff - I'd have to build it and try it but its 00.15 here and I need some sleep !

Anyone else got one of these yet?

Better pics tomorrow when I get the camera - I promise !
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Old 11-23-2005, 05:22 PM   #11463
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Can you tell if the diff screw can be used with the plastic outdrives? Would like to retain the plastic, while being able to adjust the diff externally....
I just saw at the stock 415 manual the diffscrew is 30mm long.
If that screw on the new diff really is just 25mm then there must be a difference in the diff halves. So this won´t work on the plastic diff.
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Old 11-23-2005, 05:27 PM   #11464
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Anyone know of the part number of the new diff bolt coming out for the aluminum diff joint set?


This bolt will have a bigger head with a hole cross drilled to allow the allen key to pass through to be externally adjustable without taking the diff out or removing the camber link to access the diff bolt from the side in the car like we do now.
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Old 11-23-2005, 05:32 PM   #11465
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Originally Posted by V12
I just saw at the stock 415 manual the diffscrew is 30mm long.
If that screw on the new diff really is just 25mm then there must be a difference in the diff halves. So this won´t work on the plastic diff.
Oh well.....it was a lovely thought
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Old 11-23-2005, 05:36 PM   #11466
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Oops just seen that it is 25mm long? Why would they go that smaller? They must have bored out the centers deeper into each diff half. The 30mm's are barely long enough.

I want to use this with my existing design aluminum front diff that uses all Tamiya parts and the plastic rear ones.

I was going to make a production run of matched externally adjustable diffs front and rear and just anodize them black.

I guess I'll just have to get diff bolts made too. Why do I always have to re-engineer everything I own?
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Old 11-23-2005, 06:12 PM   #11467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 190mph
Oops just seen that it is 25mm long? Why would they go that smaller? They must have bored out the centers deeper into each diff half. The 30mm's are barely long enough.

I want to use this with my existing design aluminum front diff that uses all Tamiya parts and the plastic rear ones.

I was going to make a production run of matched externally adjustable diffs front and rear and just anodize them black.

I guess I'll just have to get diff bolts made too. Why do I always have to re-engineer everything I own?
Is your aluminum front diff your own construction or is it a Jürgen diff?
If it´s a Jürgen diff you can´t use such a special diff screw as there isn´t just enough room for the larger head of the screw.
But I think this would be the same with all sorts of 415 front diffs as the pulley is centered and the halves are just too short for this.
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Old 11-23-2005, 06:52 PM   #11468
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I originally bought Jürgen's diff last year. I wrecked it as the one swing shaft kept popping out and mangled the look of it. I felt it was too short and the diff screw was not centered in the diff when assembled as it was off to one side too much.

I drew up AutoCad drawings and made the outdrives a bit longer so the swing shaft reaches a bit further into it without going to 46mm swing shafts or anything and not popping out. Also the diff bolt is properly spaced left to right when assembled. I also scrapped the blades idea. I was actually pushing out the original swing shaft pin and drilling the hole out to the size of associated pins and installing IRS pin cushions and the diff is in perfect shape after many runs.

I believe as long as the diameter of the diff bolt head of the new Tamiya or a design I can come up with is smaller than the diameter of the thrust bearing then it will work no problem. You will have access to the hole in the bolt head from a peek hole or the slots from the swing shaft pins coming in from each end.

My next design will probably go back to blades as they are going to be more common with Xray and Tamiya packaging them. The Xray ones I think give you 6 in a package and it's like $6 canadian here. Not Bad.
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Old 11-23-2005, 07:19 PM   #11469
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Hmm seems the Xray blades are way cheapier in Canada than here.
But they don´t work very good with Tamiya driveshafts. Just too much play.
The Corally ones are a perfect fit and I´m using them on my Jürgen rear diff.
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Old 11-23-2005, 07:22 PM   #11470
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Are there any estimations on the price of the Alloy Diff seperately?
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Old 11-23-2005, 07:24 PM   #11471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Alonso
Are there any estimations on the price of the Alloy Diff seperately?
I asked this the guys at R10 not very long ago and they didn´t know.
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Old 11-23-2005, 07:27 PM   #11472
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Anybody use 48 pitch gears on the 415? If so what range of spur/pinion sizes work? Thx.
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Old 11-23-2005, 07:51 PM   #11473
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Stock or Modified?
I´m using a 72 DP Xenon gear for stock. Pinion 21 - 32 teeth at least.
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Old 11-23-2005, 08:45 PM   #11474
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I used a 78tooth for a while when I was using 48dp, but now I use 64dp. 78t in 48 is pretty similiar to the kit supplied 64dp 102t spur, in physical size. I don't think you could go much bigger then that as its pretty close to the ground as is.
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Old 11-23-2005, 10:15 PM   #11475
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I normally stay around 75-78t for the spur, and pinions will depend on tire diameter, but usually in the 20-25 tooth pinion range running mod.
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