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Old 11-15-2005, 08:15 AM   #11296
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Arrow rollcenter

Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
Maxoo, F.Alonso - I'm pretty sure there Titanium Nitride coated shafts, same as the hingepins and shock shafts that you can get for the car.
However, I'm not sure there a proper Tam part, cause if you looks closely at the picture, you can see there is a spacer between the steering knuckle, and hex hub. Says to me that the axle is from something else... so maybe the whole of the dogbone/axle assembly has been retrofitted from another car...

F.Alonso is probably right that it's an alex racing bit though, I'm sure I remember reading somewhere that the shock shafts and hingepins are manufactured by them....

HiH
Ed
Hello tryhard : I seen you played with the roll center a bit how did u like it ?I have a 3mm chassis can u tell me how it changed the car..I have a Big race this weekend In Wi, just looking for some tech notes to take with me....thanks for the help with the Droop
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Old 11-15-2005, 09:14 AM   #11297
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The body manufs must be having a field day.
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Old 11-15-2005, 09:59 AM   #11298
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Well I am having a difficult time with the MSX conversion on carpet with Standard suspension. I might be in off-road mode still, LOL.

The car is a different animal. Any one have a good setup that works with 28mm foams, 3mm chassis, standard suspension and good amount of steering. I know there are people who like the car to push a ton and may be able to drive very good at it, I need middle of the road or a bit more steering.

Also I noticed the steering linkage ball cups are popping off a lot more often easily whether it is a new ball cup or not. With the steering parts lowered in the MSX kit it seems to have made a tap into the boards more devastating to your race. I am breaking more knuckles too. Now I also have a cracked Carbon Fiber Steering plate part in the MSX. I might make that out of Aluminum now.
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Old 11-15-2005, 03:08 PM   #11299
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190MPH- Not sure what you mean by standard suspension. I think that there is the original heavy suspension and the evoIV lightweight suspension. I have the MSX with evoIV suspension, it is GREAT on carpet with the modified parts to use chassis stiffeners.

Ball cups popping off....I suggest quit hitting the boards or using the heavy duty Tamiya ball cups.

Breaking steering nuckles...hmmmm I have been driving 415 for about 1 1/2 years and have never broken one of those. Do you mean the c hub?

We all hit something occasionally. I highly recommend the BRP bumper(for XXXS) and the PDUB bumper. Yes you use both.
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Old 11-15-2005, 03:13 PM   #11300
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Is anyone having a problem getting a reply from RC Champ? I am trying to pre order my 415MSX kit and they are not replying to my emails.
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Old 11-15-2005, 03:22 PM   #11301
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I have an 8t checkpoint motor that I am going to use on carpet with TRF415. Can anybody recommend a starting point for gearing?
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Old 11-15-2005, 03:27 PM   #11302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 190mph
Well I am having a difficult time with the MSX conversion on carpet with Standard suspension. I might be in off-road mode still, LOL.

The car is a different animal. Any one have a good setup that works with 28mm foams, 3mm chassis, standard suspension and good amount of steering. I know there are people who like the car to push a ton and may be able to drive very good at it, I need middle of the road or a bit more steering.

Also I noticed the steering linkage ball cups are popping off a lot more often easily whether it is a new ball cup or not. With the steering parts lowered in the MSX kit it seems to have made a tap into the boards more devastating to your race. I am breaking more knuckles too. Now I also have a cracked Carbon Fiber Steering plate part in the MSX. I might make that out of Aluminum now.
Here's an old post I made a few pages back.

I've since used this car last weekend and It was REAL nice. Seem's like the more traction the carpet had, the better the car was. I like alot of steering and I'm a pretty trigger happy aggresive driver. Corner speed was amazing.

The only difference is set up was that I used Parma Plaid fronts and Purple Rears.

Good luck with your new MSX Take your time and keep it off the boards

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedDesignz
I think Carl did the same thing as me.

I bought this car for a great deal used, $225 used MS version. I decided to get the MSX kit for it. Now last week my RDX needed a part to run so while i waited for my order , I decided to give the MSX a carpet try.

Friday night with just the stock MSX kit on the MS Chassis ..., the car was junk! Figured it was due to the insane amout of flex. So Saturday I set out dremel in hand :P and decided to make some serious mod's to the car to see what I can get. I returned to the track Sunday and was very suprised to the difference. The car felt totaly different and was actually turning some very quick laps ( not as quick as my RDX , but still quick) All In all I think this is a great carpet set up for anyone who has this car and want's to race it on some high grip with foams.

I also added the center post support as well from what I saw on an previous post.

Here's the pics :





As for set up , here's what I was running:

Front
________

60wt oil
Associated Purple springs
Shock length 61mm
Droop 4 on yoke guage
4.5 mm ride hight
Shock top (2nd hole in from top)
Shock Bottom (middle hole, 3hole side LW arms)
1 1/2 neg camber
camber link (shortest possible) .. No spacers
4deg blocks
inside hole steering link
Blue sway bar
front belt tension ( 1 click to tight side )
1 A block rear
1 A block front [front of the car] ( with 2mm shim for kick up)
Tires, hpi wheel spacers ( Jaco dbl pink/orange 28mm) [shaved slighty on inside for clearance]

Rear
________

40wt oil
Associated Copper springs
shock length 61mm
Shock top position ( 2nd hole from top )
Lower shock (inside hole of 3hole side of LW arm)
1 1/2 neg camber
Yellow sway bar
camber link (outside hole alumium hub) .. ( inside hole on chassis mount) ..no spacers
1XD front Block
1B rear block
droop 4mm with Yoke guage
4.5mm ride hight
belt tension ( 2 clicks to tight side)
Tires, HPI wheel spacers ( Jaco dbl pink 28mm)

Motor
----------

Genisis timed 19 T
104 x 39


This setup was very fast had awesome inital turn in stering and a great overall balance. Our track is huge layout with new carpet so the traction is very high. You may want to tweak the setup to suit your driving style, but I think it's a good starting point.


ohh btw , this car may be for sale soon if anyone is interested


Good luck !!
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Old 11-15-2005, 03:29 PM   #11303
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Default Roll bar

Hi

What roll bar is that in the photo on the last page?

Thanks
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Old 11-15-2005, 04:17 PM   #11304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedDesignz
Here's an old post I made a few pages back.

I've since used this car last weekend and It was REAL nice. Seem's like the more traction the carpet had, the better the car was. I like alot of steering and I'm a pretty trigger happy aggresive driver. Corner speed was amazing.

The only difference is set up was that I used Parma Plaid fronts and Purple Rears.

Good luck with your new MSX Take your time and keep it off the boards

You're not using the same suspension so this setup is of no use to him.
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Old 11-15-2005, 05:49 PM   #11305
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Talking RE: Steering linkage clearance!

Quote:
Originally Posted by KoE
When i disassembled my MS, i'd left servo/servo saver/servo turnbuckle as they were. The MSX steering linkage sits lower as it should be per instruction as compared to that on MS....right?

Ima recheck the servo saver (or perhaps change/remove) and snap some pics tonite
I looked at my MSX conversion again and it does get close but you can lower your servo 2mm by adjusting the blocks that mount on the servo. On my Airtronic 737 there is quite a bit of play and if I move the blocks down as far as they can go the linkage does get very close to the upper deck. So when adjusting the play just have the blocks low enough, just until the servo horn clears the bottom of the chassis and tighten it there. That way you can keep the horn as low as possible to avoid hitting the upper deck and you are keeping the weight of the servo as low as possible which will help handling of the car. (Low center of gravity)
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Old 11-15-2005, 06:15 PM   #11306
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Well, I finally ran my MSX for the first time this weekend, and it was great. Easy to drive and impressed a number of guys at "the track" in Gaithersburg MD. Lets, just say that during our hot lap session, I was only about 3-tenths of the fastest guy who is a US national Champion. (11.55 vers 11.22)

For me that's huge considering I don't race electric often.

I did notice one thing, my car had tons of mid-corner and exit steering and needed more turn-in. I will switch to the LWT arms so I can run 2 degree castor block which will help...The standard arms have 4 degree.

The car, with the standard arms is bullet proof. I relly crash tested all day. I though I was having radio hits...turned out my steering servo gear was chipped...finally let go as I was heading down the straight...I turned the wheel and the car went straight...19t geared 40/102...roll-out about 30mm.

As a result each qualifer was shortlived but at least I got some great testing in and really had a chance to gets the bugs out of the chassis.

The ability to remove the diffs in less than 2minutes was worth every penny...especially watching all the xray guys drool....

My set-up:
3mm chassis with the old 415 chassis stiffners speedesigns photos and mine photos a few pages back
standard suspension arms
Parma CYAN/MAGENTA Foams (57-58mm) - what a waste of good foam
Parma Alfa body

Fr.
ASC purple spring / ASC 60 oil / 4 castor / 1.5 camber / Yok Diff, brown losi grease - tight / a-bridge block ( I forget the front bloc) / .5 toe out / 4mm ride height / 1.5 - 2mm up travel (hard to tell) / yellow sway bar

Rear.
ASC red spring / ASC 60 oil / 1 degree alum hub / no toe in the suspension blocks / width 189mm Fr & r / yellow sway bar / 4.5mm ride height / 1.5-2mm up travel / 2 camber

Cool-Can fan
SMC 3800 (got lucky with 2 packs of killer voltage)
KO VFS SC
KO Servo (which needs to be repaired - see what happens when you run without a servo saver)

Hope this helps

I wil try the LWT arms, only cause I want the 2 degree castor option...otherwise I'd stick with the standard arms...more more reliable...

Also, just order a PDub bumper...
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Old 11-15-2005, 07:08 PM   #11307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles
190MPH- Not sure what you mean by standard suspension. I think that there is the original heavy suspension and the evoIV lightweight suspension. I have the MSX with evoIV suspension, it is GREAT on carpet with the modified parts to use chassis stiffeners.

Ball cups popping off....I suggest quit hitting the boards or using the heavy duty Tamiya ball cups.

Breaking steering nuckles...hmmmm I have been driving 415 for about 1 1/2 years and have never broken one of those. Do you mean the c hub?

We all hit something occasionally. I highly recommend the BRP bumper(for XXXS) and the PDUB bumper. Yes you use both.
Charles,

I have the original suspension from the first trf415. TA04 Hard Suspension arms. The steering knuckles or uprights as others call it are getting the ball studs ripped out of them or sheered in half and they are breaking near the mount holes on top where the ball kingpin is or on the bottom where the screw and collar is. Just seems like the car is more prone to damage. I know I am not driving well as it takes a great car setup to drive well also. I am in the A-main every week just not near winning form.

I will be going to the Square R/C steering knuckles and might put the Xray turnbuckle ends on that have a bolt go through them and it should be more durable.
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Old 11-15-2005, 07:10 PM   #11308
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I have a few questions about peoples setups. I just got my 415. It came with the old style supension not the light weight and I found that the 28mm foam tires fit with no modifications. Why does it seem that everyone is putting on hpi parts to fit the 28mm foam tires?

Another question does anyone where I can fine what all the different pivot blocks are? Like on like which ones are high roll center which ones which for toe and so on? It seems like there is about 10 or more blocks.

Finally how do you get the rear sway bar and sway bar mounts not rub on the rear tire? This is when you are running 28mm.

Thanks for any help.
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Old 11-15-2005, 07:12 PM   #11309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huskerfreak
I have a few questions about peoples setups. I just got my 415. It came with the old style supension not the light weight and I found that the 28mm foam tires fit with no modifications. Why does it seem that everyone is putting on hpi parts to fit the 28mm foam tires?

Another question does anyone where I can fine what all the different pivot blocks are? Like on like which ones are high roll center which ones which for toe and so on? It seems like there is about 10 or more blocks.

Finally how do you get the rear sway bar and sway bar mounts not rub on the rear tire? This is when you are running 28mm.

Thanks for any help.
HPI steering knuckles are only needed with Foam tires on the LWT suspension
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Old 11-15-2005, 07:13 PM   #11310
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also, what's up with this tread????

why is my screen stretched???
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