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Old 11-12-2005, 12:17 AM   #11221
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Here's the quote from Dave Jun about that;

That’s a good question. Most people tend to relate the droop measurement by the actual distance from ride height that the suspension is allowed to extend and there is nothing wrong with that because it does make sense to think of it this way. Measuring from the top of the axle reflects a totally different number and it does take a little getting used to. However, to get the number you’re looking for, measure the diameter of the tire you plan to use. Let’s say its 63.2mm (Tamiya type A) now divide that in half and you get 31.6mm. Now add 2mm to that (2mm is half the thickness of the wheel axle) and you get 33.6mm. Then take your droop measurement from the top of the axle and subtract it from the 33.6mm. Let’s say you’re running 24.5mm from the top of the axle, your subtracted number is 9.1mm. Finally, subtract your ride height. If you’re running 5mm of ride height, you actual droop is 4.1mm. This is good to know if you’re switching from Sorex to take offs or any tire that has a different diameter, you can precisely account for the change accordingly. Again, good question. “Precision”
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Old 11-12-2005, 12:49 AM   #11222
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hi. i wonder if you guys dremel mod your c-hub to get tighter turning?

also is there a cnc steeriing knuckle hop up? my steering knuckle screw got strip easy on the plastic

Last edited by Doomah; 11-12-2005 at 02:22 AM.
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Old 11-12-2005, 01:04 AM   #11223
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Is there a difference between the droop gauge from AE and HPI.
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Old 11-12-2005, 03:21 AM   #11224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeR
Here's the quote from Dave Jun about that;

That’s a good question. Most people tend to relate the droop measurement by the actual distance from ride height that the suspension is allowed to extend and there is nothing wrong with that because it does make sense to think of it this way. Measuring from the top of the axle reflects a totally different number and it does take a little getting used to. However, to get the number you’re looking for, measure the diameter of the tire you plan to use. Let’s say its 63.2mm (Tamiya type A) now divide that in half and you get 31.6mm. Now add 2mm to that (2mm is half the thickness of the wheel axle) and you get 33.6mm. Then take your droop measurement from the top of the axle and subtract it from the 33.6mm. Let’s say you’re running 24.5mm from the top of the axle, your subtracted number is 9.1mm. Finally, subtract your ride height. If you’re running 5mm of ride height, you actual droop is 4.1mm. This is good to know if you’re switching from Sorex to take offs or any tire that has a different diameter, you can precisely account for the change accordingly. Again, good question. “Precision”
I complied a word doc with all David Juns tips for droop here.
David Jun Droop Method
Very useful, and also runs through how to set-up roll bars as well

HiH
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(P.S. Woooo just noticed I've past the 1000 post mark )
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Old 11-12-2005, 08:04 AM   #11225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
I complied a word doc with all David Juns tips for droop here.
David Jun Droop Method
Very useful, and also runs through how to set-up roll bars as well

HiH
Ed
(P.S. Woooo just noticed I've past the 1000 post mark )
NICE! THANKS FOR THAT!

Here are a couple pix of my unfinished TRF415MSX.
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya TRF415-1left.jpg   Tamiya TRF415-1top.jpg  
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Old 11-12-2005, 08:09 AM   #11226
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what motor is in there
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Old 11-12-2005, 08:33 AM   #11227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattman
what motor is in there
ORION 23T KATANA SL
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Old 11-12-2005, 08:41 AM   #11228
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thanks
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Old 11-12-2005, 09:41 PM   #11229
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Arrow jun droop

Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
I complied a word doc with all David Juns tips for droop here.
David Jun Droop Method
Very useful, and also runs through how to set-up roll bars as well

HiH
Ed
(P.S. Woooo just noticed I've past the 1000 post mark )
I went throu his droop Method and I came up with the same droop the way I do it...His way is very precise..not sure what to do but it doe's help now U would think if the rear arm stops sooner as the weight go's forward wouldnt it lift the arm due to the less droop thus loosing rear bite...I know it should keep it from transfering as much
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Old 11-12-2005, 11:48 PM   #11230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
now U would think if the rear arm stops sooner as the weight go's forward wouldnt it lift the arm due to the less droop thus loosing rear bite...I know it should keep it from transfering as much
You would think that but all it takes is that initial weight shift to lose rear bite or induce steering.... but go ahead, add even more rear droop
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Old 11-13-2005, 03:17 AM   #11231
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Where or how can I get a set of florescent colored TAMIYA springs?
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Old 11-13-2005, 06:51 AM   #11232
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Those droop methods are fine, i use the hudy blocks to set the car the same left and right. But once your at the track and your making on the fly adjustments the simplest way of comparing droop(UPTRAVEL) to another brand car or simply your buddies car of the same brand is to measure ride hieght and then the ride height at full uptravel.

Typically the uptravel value is 1mm,2mm and 3mm ect ect. This is univeral across any brand car and weather or not your using foam or rubber. The blocks are great to "square" the car precisly. But 2 ride hieght mesurments is fast on the fly way of adjusting uptravel and comparing to other racers setups
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Old 11-13-2005, 07:10 AM   #11233
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Does anyone know where I can find an A block Bridge for the front?
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Old 11-13-2005, 07:20 AM   #11234
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Default Shooters Alum Spool for 415

Shooters Alum Spool for 415

Would like to know any feedback from those who are currently using the alum spool by Shooters. Thanks for the responses.
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Old 11-13-2005, 08:28 AM   #11235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeyE
Where or how can I get a set of florescent colored TAMIYA springs?
Its 53163 On-road tuned spring set (4WD Touring/Rally)

Give that a go!
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