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Old 11-11-2005, 10:39 AM   #11206
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I cant recall the brand, but im using a aftermarket steel spool. I covered the end of the CVD with AW grease, and after a few meets, its showing no signs of wear... and ive hit the odd board or 50 lol.
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Old 11-11-2005, 10:50 AM   #11207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axle182
I cant recall the brand, but im using a aftermarket steel spool. I covered the end of the CVD with AW grease, and after a few meets, its showing no signs of wear... and ive hit the odd board or 50 lol.

I'm using the speedtech ver 1 spool...No wear...
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Old 11-11-2005, 10:59 AM   #11208
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415 orginal one for sale $200, about 4 race days on it. Still in great shape. PM for pics and anything else.
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Old 11-11-2005, 12:08 PM   #11209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V12
That´s the old Xray 6-cell battery strap. Works very good.

anyone got a part number? and from what original xray car is it from?

thanks
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Old 11-11-2005, 12:22 PM   #11210
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here you go doomah

Xray BATTERY MOUNT STRAP FOR 6-CELL CHASSIS - SET for T1/Evo2/R/FK
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Old 11-11-2005, 02:00 PM   #11211
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the yokomo bd strap works fine also..

Although i like tape better... (yes i swear )
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Old 11-11-2005, 02:41 PM   #11212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patriiick
the yokomo bd strap works fine also..

Although i like tape better... (yes i swear )
hi patriiick

i see a few yokomo battery straps, u know the part number?


AS-3853 TC3 BATTERY HOLE DOWN STRAP


or

FTP-3854 TC3 BATTERY HOLDER DOWN STRAP


is it dierct fit?


thanks
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Old 11-11-2005, 03:13 PM   #11213
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Arrow droop

Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
Yup, perfectly possible. All the bulkhead mounting holes are in the same place, so there will be no trouble fitting the conversion... hell you could do as Marc R did (and some on here do) and run it with the old suspension

HiH
Ed
yo tryh: as I said a few posts back my car was loose off power
some said add droop in the rear /rais ride higth in ft ect what I found is ig got worse as I addes droop to the rear but if I took some out of the FT and added to the rear it got better..thinking what I may have is to much dive it the FT/off power? what do u think...I feel I need to keep the weight from transfering all forward throu springs,or what if I change the rear wheel base move em towards the FT? any input will DO!
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Old 11-11-2005, 03:36 PM   #11214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
yo tryh: as I said a few posts back my car was loose off power
some said add droop in the rear /rais ride higth in ft ect what I found is ig got worse as I addes droop to the rear but if I took some out of the FT and added to the rear it got better..thinking what I may have is to much dive it the FT/off power? what do u think...I feel I need to keep the weight from transfering all forward throu springs,or what if I change the rear wheel base move em towards the FT? any input will DO!
Dude can't understand what you're writing. Anyway, from what i understand your car's loose Off power, and you've been told to increase rear droop ? Put it this way, it's the wrong way around. To get more stability off power you should decrease rear droop, as in screw the droop screws a bit more to prevent the rear from lifting off power and transfering the weight to the front.
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Old 11-11-2005, 04:24 PM   #11215
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I 2nd that. Whoever said add rear droop has got it backwards. Do what TRF415boy said.
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Old 11-11-2005, 04:53 PM   #11216
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Hey Guys,
Thought I'd add my testing result from tonight.
Went to West Bridgeford, which is a local track running on extremely high grip carpet.
Anyway, I started out with the MSX setup exactly as I have had before , and then worked through three changes.
Firstly I moved the shocks in one hole on the lwt arms, from 2 to 3. Deffiently improved the car, seemed to get rid of some of the delayed reaction in the car.
so I kept that on and moved to the next change.
Given that I'm running the 2.5mm chassis, I decided to raise the roll centre back up too the original height of the 3mm chassis. All I can say is how stunned I am over the difference of putting 0.5mm shims under the suspension blocks and camber links, it truely transformed the car. It no longer felt reluctant to turn, but was compeletly alive, and willing to change direction... bloody fantastic! Deffiently made transitions easier, and I could turn later and harder going into the turns, whilst also getting quicker rotation
Final change I made was going from C-A to D-D on the front. Now this was an improvement in some respects, in that it calmed the front end of the car down, and allowed me to push on more consistantly (useful running dual 1-ways), however it did mean I now lacked some on-power steering. This was especially noticeable at the hairpin after a 90deg sweeper, where before I could just tip the car in almost full chat, but now it was reluctant to turn, needing a slight lift to get the weight transfered.
However given that it allowed me to be more consistant with the car, I'm willing to take that sacrifice, and try and find the steering in other changes (prob front Rc)

Have to say it was a really productive evening. I stuck to the plan I had for the changes (based on some comments from Dave Spashett), and only made thoose to the car... and it improved with every run. Not often that happens
Shame we only had 4 runs, as I would liked to have tried to claw back the On-Power steering... still, it's a good baseline to start from, roll on next week

One other thing I discovered though... I need new batts

HiH
Ed
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Old 11-11-2005, 05:57 PM   #11217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeR
I 2nd that. Whoever said add rear droop has got it backwards. Do what TRF415boy said.
well, if you are using one of those AE-type droop guages, i think that results in a larger number on the guage.... but you want less actual droop, or rear uptravel, whichever...
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Old 11-11-2005, 06:58 PM   #11218
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Arrow opps

Quote:
Originally Posted by TRF415boy
Dude can't understand what you're writing. Anyway, from what i understand your car's loose Off power, and you've been told to increase rear droop ? Put it this way, it's the wrong way around. To get more stability off power you should decrease rear droop, as in screw the droop screws a bit more to prevent the rear from lifting off power and transfering the weight to the front.
sorry I was in a hurry I left out a few things but anyway ok if I did as u say less droop will stop the arm sooner thus leaving more weight on the rear but,I did that and it got worse
so, I set the rear ride Heigth at 4.5mm the Ft at 5.5 ft ride Heigth droop at 4mm rear at 6mm......... I will try the other way again but if it still gets loose is it due to a soft ftend somehow the weight still transfering.........
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Old 11-11-2005, 07:56 PM   #11219
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You can look at most any pro set up sheet with any car and typically the rear will be even or have 1-2mm less droop in the rear than in the front. Also you can't just automatically take out rear droop- it must be absolutely equal from left to right otherwise off power you'll get uneven load on the rear tires even though the weight isn't transfering to the front (tweak). That also means you must have perfect left and right camber because camber angles also affect left and right droop. Set camber first- preferably with an Integy type guage, then set ride height with the wheels on, then take wheels off and set droop then adjust final tweak with the front shock collars is how I do it. Dave Junn posted a way of measuring droop- mine is similar but I wont bore you with the details. You should do a search for his posts Hope that helps some.
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Old 11-11-2005, 08:20 PM   #11220
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Arrow droop

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeR
You can look at most any pro set up sheet with any car and typically the rear will be even or have 1-2mm less droop in the rear than in the front. Also you can't just automatically take out rear droop- it must be absolutely equal from left to right otherwise off power you'll get uneven load on the rear tires even though the weight isn't transfering to the front (tweak). That also means you must have perfect left and right camber because camber angles also affect left and right droop. Set camber first- preferably with an Integy type guage, then set ride height with the wheels on, then take wheels off and set droop then adjust final tweak with the front shock collars is how I do it. Dave Junn posted a way of measuring droop- mine is similar but I wont bore you with the details. You should do a search for his posts Hope that helps some.
yah I check the tweak at all times and camber w/integy guage I will try your way to set the droop my way is:camber1st,ride height wheels on ok this may be where I go wrong....say I set the ride height at 5mm and I want 5mm droop I will set the car w/whees on on the guage at 10mm get the wheels even set car down .....the car is sitting at 5mm and I can hold both wheels and lift the car 5mm.... so I guess I really have 10mm hua
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