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Old 11-08-2005, 02:55 AM   #11161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
tryh my cp will not open a xls file where can i download the software to get'er done
microsoft excel...
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Old 11-08-2005, 05:18 AM   #11162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
tryh my cp will not open a xls file where can i download the software to get'er done
Hey,
TRF415Boy's right, it shoudl be Microsoft Excel.
If you don't have it, do google search for Excel Viewer, it should allow you to view the files, although not make alterations to them.
HiH
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Old 11-08-2005, 07:51 PM   #11163
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hi,

i got one way up front and a ball diff on the rear of my ms.

was wondering what handling effcts tightening and loosening the rear ball diff will do?

also whats the difference between the 1D and 1C rear plate?


also what r the 1 XA, 1 XB ... 1 XD plates for? and hoe r they different?

thanks
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Old 11-08-2005, 08:00 PM   #11164
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Hi Doomah,
Loosening the rear diff will tend to make the car slide less on power, and also make it slightly less stable off power (I believe). I've only ever really played with the settings when on slippy floors, the rest of the time I set it and leave it.
The difference between the D and C is that the C has the holes for the suspension balls slightly closer together. If you put a C on the front and a D on the rear (both at the rear of the car), you'll get 0.5deg of toe in.
Now the clever bit about the 415 is, by utilising the narrrower blocks, you can also vary the track width of the car, whilst still retaining the correct toe angle.

Basically there is 0.5deg of toe angle between each block, and the steps go (from narrowest to widest)

XD, XC, XB, XA, X, A, B, C, D

I have a chart on my website that should helps with this.....

.....which nicely leads into my next bit....drumroll please!

I've finally got off my arse and sorted out my website! At the moment, it's all still on one page, and all the old info is on there. But the biggest changes are behind the scenes, as i've sorted out the files to make it more managable my end. Also... no more /trf415pages etc. Just a simple thard.co.uk now

Over the next few days I'm going to work on it a bit more, split the sections into seperate pages, and maybe try and get a semi database going for the setups (spool, diff, one-way... LWT, STD, Pro-mod arms.... MSX etc).
I've also finished (finally) my MSX build review, but before I post it, I want to get the "build tips" section up and running.
Now if everyone whoose got a tip (however small) could email me using the address on the site, or PM through here that would be great. I'm really going to try and push it now, to make it as good a site as possible. (don't worry I'll credit all tips )

Cheers
Ed

p.s. that includes any FAQ you can think of too!
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Last edited by TryHard; 11-08-2005 at 08:23 PM.
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Old 11-09-2005, 01:43 AM   #11165
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Heya GUys.

OK i am thinking i will be selling my MSX in a week or so.....

415msx, Delrin diff, spool, one way, locked centre, low friction belts, full spring set, LW and standard suspensions, 2.5 and 3mm chassis, 2 415 top decks, all original bulkheads and suspension towers, sway bars, a few extra toe blocks

What do u guys think that its worth??? I'd love to keep it, but at this stage i don't think i am going to have time to race it anymore!

Glenn
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Old 11-09-2005, 04:05 AM   #11166
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hi, the rear arms are reversible, what handling effect does reversing the rear arms have?


thanks
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Old 11-09-2005, 05:17 AM   #11167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doomah
hi, the rear arms are reversible, what handling effect does reversing the rear arms have?


thanks
They are reversible to allow for in between settings in the shock mounting position. It will not change anything else. According to Tamiya, there is a 5% stiffness difference between each hole. So if you reverse the wishbone and go from hole 3 to 4, you are hardening the suspension by 5% (including damping).
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Old 11-09-2005, 05:31 AM   #11168
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also in realation to the 2 small aluminium spacers on each side of the lower pins on the front. i have 2 of them in behind the FRONT 1A toe holder.if i move them washers to 1 A plate that is behind the diff, effectively lengthening the wheelbase, is this a method of changing the castor setting?

moving th washers from the front to the rear increases castor?
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Old 11-09-2005, 06:52 AM   #11169
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no, this will not change the castor. there 2 ways to change castor, either change the castor block from 4 - 2 degrees or vice versa, or add some shims underneath the suspension blocks to angle them forward or backward.
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Old 11-09-2005, 08:59 AM   #11170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
Hi Doomah,
I've finally got off my arse and sorted out my website! At the moment, it's all still on one page, and all the old info is on there. But the biggest changes are behind the scenes, as i've sorted out the files to make it more managable my end. Also... no more /trf415pages etc. Just a simple thard.co.uk now

Over the next few days I'm going to work on it a bit more, split the sections into seperate pages, and maybe try and get a semi database going for the setups (spool, diff, one-way... LWT, STD, Pro-mod arms.... MSX etc).
I've also finished (finally) my MSX build review, but before I post it, I want to get the "build tips" section up and running.
Now if everyone whoose got a tip (however small) could email me using the address on the site, or PM through here that would be great. I'm really going to try and push it now, to make it as good a site as possible. (don't worry I'll credit all tips )
You the man...thanks
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Old 11-09-2005, 10:14 AM   #11171
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Hi guys,

My turn to show what I'm doing on my car. I've been thinking about this a lot and put quite some work in there.

Some of you know it, I don't like tape. I don't like the way the packs bends, because there is nothing to keep 4 cells in the centre close to the chassis. The result is a pack that looks like a banana even if you don't crash a lot. So I've been using a Mi2 battery bar on my car for ages now, and have to say I'm happy with it, even though the posts are purple and I had to grind them a lot. I have no issue with tweak and my packs never come out. The bar moves freely and do not bind. So what ? I can't fit 3700s in there, already had to grind a lot to get 3300s to fit so there is no way 3700s will fit. Besides, there was one thing I wanted to try.

So here it is, my 2mm chassis, designed for use with a battery bar (that i've designed too) and 3700s aswell as 3300s fit. There is no way the packs are gonna get out, since I've put the mounting holes for the plastic bits that goes on the sides of the packs on the FK05. Since i'm using a std 415 and willing to be able to roll back to the STD suspension, I kept the 48.5mm hinge pins, but from the old 3mm design, the ears for the droop screws have grown in size (as per Try Hard's request, to better fit with the LW suspension).

Now for the reasons : a thinner chassis allows for a lower CoG and RC. as a matter of fact, a 2mm chassis is the same as a 3mm chassis with 1mm less ground clearance. Rigidity wise, surprisingly it's not much softer than the 3mm chassis. Reason is, I believe, the use of a higher grade of carbon than Tamiya. My standard 415 as it is here is much stiffer than the MSX. I am looking for an even better grade of carbon to make the next ones, I like stiff chassis.

Also, I've added a motor guard, which includes mounting holes for a cooling fan. Exit the double CCF on my car, which IMHO is a lot of weight put very high, on a car that's been studied to have a low CoG. So no-nonsense in my own design, the motor is protected and the fan's as low as can be. I've made the first motor guard 3mm thick, but I think for the next ones I can get away with 2mm. I've already updated the design, as it seems to be going a bit wide, I believe I can keep it closer to the can without creating shortcuts.

It hasn't hit the track yet, but will on friday and hopefully sunday. I'll use the exact same setup as I used previously, trying the car with roll centre position equals as if i still had the 3mm chassis to see the effect of the lower CoG on the handling, and then will drop the RC aswell.

So guys, I'm expecting your opinions about it, as it might make it to small production. Oh one last thing, the shock towers are also of my own design.
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Old 11-09-2005, 03:49 PM   #11172
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Looks pretty trick.....waiting to hear how it performs.
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Old 11-09-2005, 04:09 PM   #11173
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Hi Ed,

You have mentioned the following part for using the Pro4 knuckles. Is this a European/Asian part since in US I've only seen the MIP CVD ones. And the part number is nowhere to be found. Can you (or someone in the US) point me to the right direction? Thanks.

HP75187 PRO4 Universal axles (NOT the MIP CVD ones)
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Old 11-09-2005, 04:33 PM   #11174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Sky
Hi Ed,

You have mentioned the following part for using the Pro4 knuckles. Is this a European/Asian part since in US I've only seen the MIP CVD ones. And the part number is nowhere to be found. Can you (or someone in the US) point me to the right direction? Thanks.

HP75187 PRO4 Universal axles (NOT the MIP CVD ones)
I got that part number from the Rainbow Ten Website, in Japan.
I've had a look on the HPI sites however, and can't find a reference to them anywhere.... strange
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Old 11-09-2005, 04:35 PM   #11175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Sky
Hi Ed,

You have mentioned the following part for using the Pro4 knuckles. Is this a European/Asian part since in US I've only seen the MIP CVD ones. And the part number is nowhere to be found. Can you (or someone in the US) point me to the right direction? Thanks.

HP75187 PRO4 Universal axles (NOT the MIP CVD ones)
Cyclone axles are also the same as the Jap pro 4 ones. Might be worth dropping speedtech a mail as they are not showing on his site.
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