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Old 11-04-2005, 04:42 PM   #11131
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Arrow ft blocks

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Originally Posted by TryHard
0, I think
tryhard : why is it if I make the ft block of the ft arms say A d blocks it has less steering as to A A... cause and effect .... and the outer ball shim of the rear hub ...adding and removing is it a more or less camber gain ? thanksKevin
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Old 11-04-2005, 06:16 PM   #11132
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Originally Posted by Customworksking
tryhard : why is it if I make the ft block of the ft arms say A d blocks it has less steering as to A A... cause and effect .... and the outer ball shim of the rear hub ...adding and removing is it a more or less camber gain ? thanksKevin
I assume when you say A-D you mean A on the front, and D onthe rear? ie, inboard Toe-in.
I can't entirely explain why it does it (simply, I don't know), but I think it's due to a numebr of things.
a) Lengthening the front wheelbase...
b)... and hence putting more weight rearward
c) it affects how the arms work under compression (like anti-squat and kick-up)
d) it widens the car at the front (the 415 seems to like the narrower front track, appears to yield better grip on the front)
All these would add up to take away front end. Doing the reverse (ie D/A) does the opposite, as the opposite is true.... however this isn't a be all and end all statement... everything affects everything else, and needs to be tuned to suit the track and conditions. It maybe that sometimes A-A is better, and othertimes that C-A is better...
I do know that a lot of drivers find that running the inboard toe seems to give better mid-corner steering. Personally, outdoors I always like to start with A-A, or A-XA. Indoors I go with C-A.

The outer shim affects two things
1) Camber change
2) Roll Centre
From what I recall from what some other drivers said (I've never experimented with it.... damm another thing to add to the "to try" list ), is that the roll centre adjustment is the more important part to consider ...as long as the camber change isn't excessive (eg over 2.5deg over the wheel travel)
Adjusting the RC here works the opposite way to the inboard link, ie putting a shim underneath raises the RC.
From how I understand it, camber change is more affected by the length of the link, rather than it's height. I.E a shorter/longer link will have more affect than a lower/higher one.... at least in the mm's we use to change the height.

Now undoubtably, someone with far better knowledge of this might be able to expand on these better, so please, chip in guys (Martin especially )... I could be completely wrong.... then again, give it a year, and I maybe able too myself (stuff in the pipeline )

HiH
Ed
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Last edited by TryHard; 11-04-2005 at 06:28 PM.
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Old 11-05-2005, 03:43 AM   #11133
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here is my 415





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Old 11-05-2005, 11:41 AM   #11134
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Arrow ad aa ac

Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
I assume when you say A-D you mean A on the front, and D onthe rear? ie, inboard Toe-in.
I can't entirely explain why it does it (simply, I don't know), but I think it's due to a numebr of things.
a) Lengthening the front wheelbase...
b)... and hence putting more weight rearward
c) it affects how the arms work under compression (like anti-squat and kick-up)
d) it widens the car at the front (the 415 seems to like the narrower front track, appears to yield better grip on the front)
All these would add up to take away front end. Doing the reverse (ie D/A) does the opposite, as the opposite is true.... however this isn't a be all and end all statement... everything affects everything else, and needs to be tuned to suit the track and conditions. It maybe that sometimes A-A is better, and othertimes that C-A is better...
I do know that a lot of drivers find that running the inboard toe seems to give better mid-corner steering. Personally, outdoors I always like to start with A-A, or A-XA. Indoors I go with C-A.

The outer shim affects two things
1) Camber change
2) Roll Centre
From what I recall from what some other drivers said (I've never experimented with it.... damm another thing to add to the "to try" list ), is that the roll centre adjustment is the more important part to consider ...as long as the camber change isn't excessive (eg over 2.5deg over the wheel travel)
Adjusting the RC here works the opposite way to the inboard link, ie putting a shim underneath raises the RC.
From how I understand it, camber change is more affected by the length of the link, rather than it's height. I.E a shorter/longer link will have more affect than a lower/higher one.... at least in the mm's we use to change the height.

Now undoubtably, someone with far better knowledge of this might be able to expand on these better, so please, chip in guys (Martin especially )... I could be completely wrong.... then again, give it a year, and I maybe able too myself (stuff in the pipeline )

HiH
Ed
thanks I feel us /not pros ie I pay to drive and I don't get paid to drive<> That we call all turn atleast 1 fast lap like the por's but not as many between all the club drivers and their setup's someone can put togeather a good race/setup or is it such a fine line that we can't anyway true if u want more ft traction/steering AA works I guess at the same time it takes away the rear traction or some of it..I got a list of things to try for 19turn rubber "CS27" w/spool ...the freer the better/faster less toe ect...we wil see 2mar......
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Old 11-06-2005, 01:01 PM   #11135
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Hey, can anyone tell me if the standard Tamiya servo-saver that comes with the 415 is any good?
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Old 11-06-2005, 01:05 PM   #11136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender
Hey, can anyone tell me if the standard Tamiya servo-saver that comes with the 415 is any good?
It's not good at all, gets some play after you hit your first dot... Get yourself a kimbrough...
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Old 11-06-2005, 01:12 PM   #11137
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Does anyone run with double diffs indoor with rubber tires on carpet? Just wondering what your shock oils were as a starting point.
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Old 11-06-2005, 01:51 PM   #11138
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Wondering if anybody has a 2.5mm lower deck they would be willing to sell...if so please PM me.
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Old 11-06-2005, 02:32 PM   #11139
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All,

Up for grabs is a 415msx. This baby is loaded! I added 0 degree alum hubs, Ti turn buckles, 2 complete sets of springs and lots of extra parts. I need to sell SOON, have to finish my basement/bar before the superbowl. comes will 2 spools, one way, yok ball diff, locked center shaft, and center one way.
Price, $550 US. PM me if you are interested....
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Old 11-06-2005, 02:34 PM   #11140
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Here is a pic...........
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Tamiya TRF415-dsc01427.jpg  
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Old 11-06-2005, 03:07 PM   #11141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Draper
Does anyone run with double diffs indoor with rubber tires on carpet? Just wondering what your shock oils were as a starting point.
Hey Rick,
When I ran a diff up front, I just kept the oils the same as for a spool, so either 50/50 or 60/60 (3 hole pistons)

HiH
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Old 11-06-2005, 03:09 PM   #11142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Static_racing
All,

Up for grabs is a 415msx. This baby is loaded! I added 0 degree alum hubs, Ti turn buckles, 2 complete sets of springs and lots of extra parts. I need to sell SOON, have to finish my basement/bar before the superbowl. comes will 2 spools, one way, yok ball diff, locked center shaft, and center one way.
Price, $550 US. PM me if you are interested....
hey! I just sold mine for the exact same price.. so dont let all of the haters make you feel like your asking too much.. ALSO.. check your PM.. I am PMing you a name of a guy who wanted mine, but i sold locally before he got back to me..

Keith
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Old 11-06-2005, 03:17 PM   #11143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
Hey Rick,
When I ran a diff up front, I just kept the oils the same as for a spool, so either 50/50 or 60/60 (3 hole pistons)

HiH
Ed
Hi Ed,

Thanks for that, just getting my car ready for carpet wars, only doing the 2 day meeting but going to have lots more practice this year as last year. I had never ran my MS, never used a stock motor before and still made the stock A .

Do you have any preferance for suspension indoor on rubbers?
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Old 11-07-2005, 05:39 AM   #11144
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TIR are now producing there worlds CVD's for the 415.
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Old 11-07-2005, 05:53 AM   #11145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Draper
TIR are now producing there worlds CVD's for the 415.
And what is the difference/advantage on them to the std 415 ones?
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