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Old 10-19-2005, 02:18 AM   #10786
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ahahah girls and thier grip tyres...

cowboy dava attack!
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Old 10-19-2005, 03:11 AM   #10787
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Default German online rc store

Hi,

I live in the Netherlands, and I would like to know if someone knows a good on-line rc store for Tamiya TRF parts.
The suplier here in Holland only carries the regular Tamiya parts, but no TRF products

I would really be very happy with a good on-line store!

I thank you all in advantage.

Thomas
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Old 10-19-2005, 07:34 AM   #10788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 840918001
Hi,

I live in the Netherlands, and I would like to know if someone knows a good on-line rc store for Tamiya TRF parts.
The suplier here in Holland only carries the regular Tamiya parts, but no TRF products

I would really be very happy with a good on-line store!

I thank you all in advantage.

Thomas
go to

www.speedtechrc.com
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Old 10-19-2005, 07:46 AM   #10789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
can anyone tell me the part # for the spur gear adapter that u put on after the spur so that it lay's flat its carbonfiber round w/2holes ...I got my car when it 1st came out and I see they added it to kits now..I looked at speedtech,tamiyausa,stella....w/out it I got to jack with it to get the spur flat due to 2 screws it tends to worp the spur...thanks
3455643 Spur Gear Stopper (MM3)

tis is the # from the Evo IV, im sure itll do it. you should be able to use either the one from the TRF414/TA04 as well, but the screws arent countersunk... it will still work, but its a tight fit to the pulleys. the Evo III/IV with the countersunk screws should be better

i didnt think any of the kits came with those to start with, but i could be wrong, as i got my kit when they first came out.
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Old 10-19-2005, 08:13 AM   #10790
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Default spur

thanks bro !!!!!!!
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Old 10-19-2005, 08:26 AM   #10791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HELLOkitty

Thanks!
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Old 10-19-2005, 09:08 AM   #10792
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MSX Chassis modification – Foam Carpet Racing only

I started to convert a standard 415 to the MSX chassis for carpet racing and noticed the chassis flex everyone is talking about…the only reason I purchased the MSX conversion is for the easy diff access and it looks cool!

I decided I needed to incorporate the chassis stiffeners from the standard 415. The modifications make the chassis super rigid, perfect for foam carpet racing.

Parts needed:
1.) Standard 415 carbon fiber chassis braces FR/RR and side tube posts.
2.) 0.3mm shims (2x)
3.) 1.0mm shims (2x) – silver ones used under the toe blocks
4.) 0.7mm shims (4x) - silver ones used under the toe blocks
5.) 3x10mm screws (4x)
6.) 3x14mm screws & stepped spacer (2x) – both are from the standard 415, used to bolt down the old top plate to the steering posts.
7.) Dremel Tool / Large sanding drum / cut-off wheel
8.) Dust mask for all the carbon fiber dust

Directions:
Front:
1.) FR standard 415 carbon chassis brace, (part #1) cut the portion of the carbon fiber by removing the front camber link holes and the front bolt holes used to mount the plate to the old bulkheads. Use sanding drum to sand / shape the plate as desired. EYE BALL your cuts, and carefully remove just enough material to allow the easy removal of the front diff without having to remove the chassis plate. You want to keep the mounting holes for the chassis posts and the rear facing holes to clamp to the steering rack.
2.) I also tapered the top of the chassis brace so belt would not rub. This is not necessary but I did it anyway.
3.) Mount the MSX top plate, using only the front screws.
4.) Now mount the modified chassis brace, under the belt. Bolt it down (part #5) to the outside chassis posts first.
5.) Place the 0.3mm shims (part #2) between the MSX top plate and the modified brace (holes above the steering post.) This will take up the pace between the to two carbon fiber plates.
6.) Use (part #6) 3x14mm screws & stepped spacer the bolt the modified chassis brace to the steering post. This will clamp everything together, nicely.

Rear:
1.) RR standard 415 chassis brace, (part #1), remove the camber link holes and shape brace so it rests flat on the MSX rear alum top plate. Sand enough to clear the 4 screws on the rear shock tower which holds the rear diff.
2.) You need to taper the carbon chassis plate so the rear belt does not rub. - IMPORTANT
3.) Mount the brace on to the alum top plate using 3x10mm screws.
4.) Use the 2x 0.7mm shim (part #4) and 1x 1.0mm shim (part#3) on each side between the outside chassis posts and the modified brace, clamp down with 3x10mm or longer screws.

A picture is worth a 1000 words so I will get the photos up tonight…I just could not wait to share the info. I was up for hours last night hacking away at this. What a huge difference

If your unsure what to do, hold off until you see the photos, it will make a lot of sense.
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Old 10-19-2005, 09:21 AM   #10793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano
MSX Chassis modification – Foam Carpet Racing only

I started to convert a standard 415 to the MSX chassis for carpet racing and noticed the chassis flex everyone is talking about…the only reason I purchased the MSX conversion is for the easy diff access and it looks cool!

I decided I needed to incorporate the chassis stiffeners from the standard 415. The modifications make the chassis super rigid, perfect for foam carpet racing.

Parts needed:
1.) Standard 415 carbon fiber chassis braces FR/RR and side tube posts.
2.) 0.3mm shims (2x)
3.) 1.0mm shims (2x) – silver ones used under the toe blocks
4.) 0.7mm shims (4x) - silver ones used under the toe blocks
5.) 3x10mm screws (4x)
6.) 3x14mm screws & stepped spacer (2x) – both are from the standard 415, used to bolt down the old top plate to the steering posts.
7.) Dremel Tool / Large sanding drum / cut-off wheel
8.) Dust mask for all the carbon fiber dust

Directions:
Front:
1.) FR standard 415 carbon chassis brace, (part #1) cut the portion of the carbon fiber by removing the front camber link holes and the front bolt holes used to mount the plate to the old bulkheads. Use sanding drum to sand / shape the plate as desired. EYE BALL your cuts, and carefully remove just enough material to allow the easy removal of the front diff without having to remove the chassis plate. You want to keep the mounting holes for the chassis posts and the rear facing holes to clamp to the steering rack.
2.) I also tapered the top of the chassis brace so belt would not rub. This is not necessary but I did it anyway.
3.) Mount the MSX top plate, using only the front screws.
4.) Now mount the modified chassis brace, under the belt. Bolt it down (part #5) to the outside chassis posts first.
5.) Place the 0.3mm shims (part #2) between the MSX top plate and the modified brace (holes above the steering post.) This will take up the pace between the to two carbon fiber plates.
6.) Use (part #6) 3x14mm screws & stepped spacer the bolt the modified chassis brace to the steering post. This will clamp everything together, nicely.

Rear:
1.) RR standard 415 chassis brace, (part #1), remove the camber link holes and shape brace so it rests flat on the MSX rear alum top plate. Sand enough to clear the 4 screws on the rear shock tower which holds the rear diff.
2.) You need to taper the carbon chassis plate so the rear belt does not rub. - IMPORTANT
3.) Mount the brace on to the alum top plate using 3x10mm screws.
4.) Use the 2x 0.7mm shim (part #4) and 1x 1.0mm shim (part#3) on each side between the outside chassis posts and the modified brace, clamp down with 3x10mm or longer screws.

A picture is worth a 1000 words so I will get the photos up tonight…I just could not wait to share the info. I was up for hours last night hacking away at this. What a huge difference

If your unsure what to do, hold off until you see the photos, it will make a lot of sense.
Very interesting. I don't really run on foams at all aside from at the odd event in the year, but it may be work getting some spare stiffeners (as I've used my current ones to build a 415MS) to do this mod. Looking forward to the pics so I can see that I am thinking I'm seeing in my head.
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Old 10-19-2005, 09:56 AM   #10794
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hey guys,
finally got round to doing an MSX setup sheet.
Here it is


I've also put up my ashby setup from the weekend, just have my carpet one left to do now.
http://www.thard.co.uk/rc/TRF415/setups/ashby(MSX).jpg

Regards
Ed
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Old 10-19-2005, 11:40 AM   #10795
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano
MSX Chassis modification – Foam Carpet Racing only
have you pictures of your modifications???
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Old 10-19-2005, 07:25 PM   #10796
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Exclamation RE: MSX MOD

I want to see the pictures too!! Inquiring minds want to see!!!
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Old 10-19-2005, 08:10 PM   #10797
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Default removing slop in the 415

Hey,

I managed to get rid of the slop on the 415...completely! In addition to the normal things such as shiming, using the allum rear uprights, etc. The main things I changed was 1) using the linkage ballcups from my TG10R and the corresponding 6mm ball ends and 2) using the HPI steering knuckles with 5x10 bearings. I did not change the upper links to the TG10R ballcups because I did not have enough of them on hand, but this would also help. I did change all of the steering linkages however. Shimming the bell crank is also VERY critical to removing any steering slop.

What a difference, I can't wait to try it tomorrow.
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Old 10-19-2005, 08:56 PM   #10798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Crisp
Hey,

I managed to get rid of the slop on the 415...completely! In addition to the normal things such as shiming, using the allum rear uprights, etc. The main things I changed was 1) using the linkage ballcups from my TG10R and the corresponding 6mm ball ends and 2) using the HPI steering knuckles with 5x10 bearings. I did not change the upper links to the TG10R ballcups because I did not have enough of them on hand, but this would also help. I did change all of the steering linkages however. Shimming the bell crank is also VERY critical to removing any steering slop.

What a difference, I can't wait to try it tomorrow.
Pretty much the same config on the 414M/EVO3 chassis linkages. I did adopt that type of config when I first got my 415 last year. Besides getting rid most of the slop, it makes it easier to disassemble the suspension parts from the bulkheads (my std 415 linkages were attached to the shock towers F/R rather the orig loc on the G-plate). I'm also going to do the same (actually did it already today, just need to order 3X14 counter sunk T-screws) on the 415MS conv kit. It makes changing the alum spacers under the ball nuts easier for fine tuning & quick disassembling. When I get a chance I'll post some pics.
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Old 10-19-2005, 09:45 PM   #10799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
hey guys,
finally got round to doing an MSX setup sheet.
Just a suggestion, but perhaps there should be a tick box or something to say whether its Pro Module, LWT or standard arms as well, if there is room. Love the sheet!
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Old 10-20-2005, 02:52 AM   #10800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Alonso
Just a suggestion, but perhaps there should be a tick box or something to say whether its Pro Module, LWT or standard arms as well, if there is room. Love the sheet!
I think I might be able to do that
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