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Old 10-07-2005, 10:16 AM   #10501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
Look closely, and you'll find the damperstays are needed.
The new ones are different, as the mounting points for the the towers on to the bulkheads has been raised, necessarly because of the quick access bulkheads.
Still not sure on the difference of the steering plates though... if any.

Personally, I quite like my t-shirt... very comfy

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Ed
my bad, it made a huge difference in the way the car sits, i just glanced at them at first... now i have ms damperstays that are usless, between this my pro mod and spare parts maybe ill build an ms and sell it to make back the money for the msx kit!!
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Old 10-07-2005, 11:17 AM   #10502
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Originally Posted by odawg315
now i have ms damperstays that are usless, between this my pro mod and spare parts maybe ill build an ms and sell it to make back the money for the msx kit!!

If you got MS parts you want to get rid of, I'll all ears . I need to stock up on spares.

Jimmy
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Old 10-07-2005, 11:50 AM   #10503
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has anyone encountered problems installing their lightweight suspension on their regular 415?

i can't get the holes on the rear block to line up with the chassis. the instructions ask for spacers to be put under the rear block. but i wish to have it sit flat on the chassis.

front rear block /3mm spacer/2mm spacer/suspension arm/3mm spacer/rear block.
Are you just saying you bought the LW suspension and want to mount it on your stock 415?

If so it should fit fine. I have gone back and forth with LW and stock suspension on both the 2.5 and 3mm chassis. Only difference when going from chassis to chassis is the number of shims on the inner hingepins and the length of the hingepins.
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Old 10-07-2005, 12:06 PM   #10504
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Can someone please provide a screw count from the instruction manual of the conversion kit. I'm at work and umm yeah...can't get to my stuff. Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-07-2005, 01:07 PM   #10505
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Talking screw count in MSX kit!

3x10mm round head=5
3x8mm round head=19
3x6mm round head=10
3x10mm flat countersunk=1
3x8mm flat countersunk=13
2x5 mm cap screw=2
3x10mm grub screws=4

There you go Rod!
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Old 10-07-2005, 04:34 PM   #10506
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So in the front, I want the D-D block.. in the rear, according to ,Martin Crisp, i was D-A... is the D in the front of the rear or the rear of the rear?

I ask, because I swear I have toe out with the D in the front and the A in the rear...

//KBpower
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Old 10-07-2005, 04:52 PM   #10507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
Still not sure on the difference of the steering plates though... if any.
Ed, the only difference in the steering plate is the MSX version has been machined out so the flanged bearing sits flush inside the plate.

Not a big difference... but still a difference, and not something I would like to have to do myself...

~Jack
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Old 10-07-2005, 05:10 PM   #10508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Billanti
So in the front, I want the D-D block.. in the rear, according to ,Martin Crisp, i was D-A... is the D in the front of the rear or the rear of the rear?

I ask, because I swear I have toe out with the D in the front and the A in the rear...

//KBpower
Well you would have, to be more precise 1 toe out is what you have. Have a bit of common sense and compare the blocks... A is narrower than D (they go in 0.5 steps, so A-D would give a 2 difference), so you put D on the rear/rear and A on the rear/front. Make sure also that you have the hubs the proper way around, as they have 1 toe too. There's a L/R sign on the side of them.
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Old 10-07-2005, 05:20 PM   #10509
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Default Toe Blocks configuration

Keith,

Goto Ed "Thard" Clark's page and the link to see a useful spreadhseet of the block configurations are found on his page in the excel links section. Lot of other useful stuff too:

http://www.thard.co.uk/rc/TRF415/TRF415pages.html#excel
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Old 10-07-2005, 05:24 PM   #10510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Billanti
So in the front, I want the D-D block.. in the rear, according to ,Martin Crisp, i was D-A... is the D in the front of the rear or the rear of the rear?

I ask, because I swear I have toe out with the D in the front and the A in the rear...

//KBpower
Generally when I talk about suspension blocks, I go from thefront of the car to the back, ie:
Front-Front/Front-Rear Rear-Front/Rear-Rear

For example
C/A on the front would mean, a C block at the front, and an A on the rear
And yes this gives toe-out

HiH
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Old 10-07-2005, 06:05 PM   #10511
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Billanti
So in the front, I want the D-D block.. in the rear, according to ,Martin Crisp, i was D-A... is the D in the front of the rear or the rear of the rear?

I ask, because I swear I have toe out with the D in the front and the A in the rear...

//KBpower

Keith...I see you found a car :P

I ran M.Crisp's setup....it's D/D and A/D in that order. It worked pretty well at my local track that is new Ozite. For a oneway setup it was very smooth.
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Old 10-07-2005, 07:12 PM   #10512
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Originally Posted by Nexus
Keith...I see you found a car :P

I ran M.Crisp's setup....it's D/D and A/D in that order. It worked pretty well at my local track that is new Ozite. For a oneway setup it was very smooth.

ya, no thanks to you

I have never met anyone more firm on a price.. LMAO...

haha///
Keith
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Old 10-07-2005, 10:00 PM   #10513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexus
Are you just saying you bought the LW suspension and want to mount it on your stock 415?

If so it should fit fine. I have gone back and forth with LW and stock suspension on both the 2.5 and 3mm chassis. Only difference when going from chassis to chassis is the number of shims on the inner hingepins and the length of the hingepins.
which set of inner hingepins do you use when converting your lightweight suspension?
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Old 10-07-2005, 10:33 PM   #10514
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you should use the same ones that fit your particular chassis before the swap... the only thing that changes is the amount of spacers on either side of the arm.
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Old 10-08-2005, 05:25 AM   #10515
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Ran my MSX for the first time last night, and at the moment, I'm very pleased with it.
Was running on high grip carpet, and given i was running it with a 2.5mm chassis, it performed very well. I deffiently think i need to go stiffer on the springs (I was running white/blue F/R, transition wise it was a bit slow), and try and dial in a bit more initial steering. But apart from that the chassis was very smooth, and does seem to generate more grip than my other car (which i also ran).

I've decided that for tomorrows meeting, I'm gonna run the MSX, and have the other car in reserve. Need more track time at the moment, and 30mins between each round left me a little breathless, especially when needing to switch some electronics between cars, and then setthem up....

More later
Regards
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